Kitchen Floor

 
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:38 PM   #21
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Re: Kitchen Floor


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Depends on what look you want. Are you going for rustic or modern. If you want the nails to show do the shiplap. If you want jsut the floor to show, then do T&G. Does this guy have a straight line rip or is that where the t55 comes into play?
I'm going to lay it rough side up. Then I am going to screen it with 80 at the most. I want there to be some rough sawn marks in it still but, still nice to walk on.

I think I will have to glue these planks down, all will be at least 6" wide.

I'm going to 'groove' the backs.

This is where the ts-55 will shine. Get one edge staight, and run it throught the table saw.

I might run the finish side through his big wide belt sander. Maybe one pass with 40 or 60, I will have to do some samples.

I am going for the old wide plank farm house floor. Don't tell me you never seen that out east!!

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Old 08-12-2009, 09:39 PM   #22
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Re: Kitchen Floor


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those boobs add up to a lot of extra weight.


Don't be hatin, you knew somebody was gonna do it.

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Old 08-12-2009, 09:39 PM   #23
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Re: Kitchen Floor


...
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:40 PM   #24
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Re: Kitchen Floor


Not in Ash. But plenty of wide board flooring in pine.
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:41 PM   #25
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Re: Kitchen Floor


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Don't be hatin, you knew somebody was gonna do it.

You miss post #1????
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:42 PM   #26
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Re: Kitchen Floor


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Where did you come by your stock?

Are you in contact with some of the mill shops around Grabill, run by the guys in beards and staw hats, as a source for your planing and milling?

My friend has a butt load of rough cut in his barn. He has a big portable band saw.

The rough planing will be done at Wakefield's here in Auburn.

The other mill work will be done at another good friends shop in town also.
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:43 PM   #27
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Re: Kitchen Floor


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Your kitchen, or client's? sounds more like yours...
Mine, I couldnt find too many people around here to spring for something like this.
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:44 PM   #28
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Re: Kitchen Floor


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Don't be hatin, you knew somebody was gonna do it.


I'll take a good one when the Lioness finally beds down
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:45 PM   #29
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Re: Kitchen Floor


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Not in Ash. But plenty of wide board flooring in pine.

Are the old ones face nailed and butted, or lapped?
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:46 PM   #30
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Re: Kitchen Floor


Mostly butted. After they shrink down you stuff the cracks with hemp rope/string.
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:50 PM   #31
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Re: Kitchen Floor


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Mostly butted. After they shrink down you stuff the cracks with hemp rope/string.
That's what i've found as well.

My floor in my old house is mostly VG Fir, and it is t&g, laid right over the floor joists. When it shrunk up someone put rope between them. The basement lights that shine up through the floor boards will mess with your head ever now and then.

Ok, so they were face nailed.

Mostley seem to be about 6" wide too, yes?
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:54 PM   #32
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Re: Kitchen Floor


No, mostly 10" and wider. The sub floor was usually oak, but thin. Sometimes as thin as 3/8". The only time I found it nailed straight on the joists was on a second floor. But not that often.

Usually faced nailed with rose head nails. Sometimes "T" head nails.
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:54 PM   #33
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Re: Kitchen Floor


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Mine, I couldnt find too many people around here to spring for something like this.
I figured that out after I posted Sounds great so far! Some folks won't get your vision, and they'll think it's a cheapo job, but obviously it's taking more planning than the crisp, clean job they're used to seeing.

I'm looking forward to seeing some final picks.....don't forget before and after!
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:54 PM   #34
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Re: Kitchen Floor


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That's what i've found as well.

My floor in my old house is mostly VG Fir, and it is t&g, laid right over the floor joists. When it shrunk up someone put rope between them. The basement lights that shine up through the floor boards will mess with your head ever now and then.

Ok, so they were face nailed.

Mostley seem to be about 6" wide too, yes?
They did it that way because
they made T&G with hand planes.
They didn't have Green tools
to play with.
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:56 PM   #35
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Re: Kitchen Floor


Definitely post some process pics... sounds like a fun project.


(Take some pics when the couch goes on the bonfire, too... Couches burn BIG and HOT... )
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:57 PM   #36
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Re: Kitchen Floor


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No, mostly 10" and wider. The sub floor was usually oak, but thin. Sometimes as thin as 3/8". The only time I found it nailed straight on the joists was on a second floor. But not that often.

Usually faced nailed with rose head nails. Sometimes "T" head nails.
I'm almost afraid to go wider than 8".
I'm sure I would have to put some glue down under those as well.

3/8" on a 45 at least?

My up and down is hand nailed with cut nails, right through the tounge and into the joist.

Wonder if I could get away with that now days?
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:57 PM   #37
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Re: Kitchen Floor


damn it! everytime I post, I come back and more has been revealed
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:59 PM   #38
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Re: Kitchen Floor


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I'm almost afraid to go wider than 8".
I'm sure I would have to put some glue down under those as well.

3/8" on a 45 at least?

My up and down is hand nailed with cut nails, right through the tounge and into the joist.

Wonder if I could get away with that now days?
Flooring nails are a kind of cut nail.
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:59 PM   #39
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Re: Kitchen Floor


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My up and down is hand nailed with cut nails, right through the tounge and into the joist.

Wonder if I could get away with that now days?

That's how the Woodwright would do it!

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Old 08-12-2009, 10:02 PM   #40
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Re: Kitchen Floor


They would put the oak down green, and then it would fracture from the stress from drying. Kind of neat looking. But pretty strong considering it was only 3/8". Most of the floor joists were 2x6, and I mean 2x6 not 1 1/2 x 5 1/2. And they were usually Chestnut. Pretty strong stuff. And after the decades it became very hard. Hard enough where a pneumatic nailer couldn't sink a nail all the time.
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