Ideas?

TBFGhost

This is the kitchen at my folks house. As you can see...the floor is WAY old and it is being replaced. My father has slowly been re-doing the kitchen in this house b/c it was outdated entirely. A few years back he had me install that "flat panel wainscoting" you see in the hallway. As you can see I self retuned it at the corners to other rooms... He now wants to do something with this blank wall in the kitchen...he was thinking about,

A) continue running the "chair rail" across the wall and painting the wall a different color above and/or below said "chair rail".

B) It wanted to run the "chair rail" with bead board imitation MDF below it...

and then you have c) which is my mother who was thinking about continune the "flat panel wainscoting" down said wall....

I am not really sure what I think about either three of the ideas....I was thinking plan a would look dorky with such a small "chair rail". With plan B I am not sure how the MDF bead board would look run up against the current trim, and plan C maybe that is just too much?

Maybe I am still confused from the flu...but any ideas or suggestions?

D.Foster

You could do the shaker waincot through the kitchen, I think it would look ok. Or you could make it taller and more slender so that it runs into the window trim. But then you have the recepticles to deal with. I dunno.

__________________
Do what you would do, as if i won't Do anything after you Did It!

TBFGhost

Shaker wainscot...is that the offical name for that.... Also there are no windows on that wall... here is another angle of it...

world llc

continue the recessed panels

TBFGhost

I have no idea why it is un rotating the photo like that...It is not like that on my computer or in photo bucket....so I am sorry to say but you will have to deal... and thanks for the responses so far. Here is another nice question for you guys....why are the outlets so damn high on the wall?

world llc

they must have left room for your panels

D.Foster

No window, even better. I dunno if shaker is the tech term i just say shaker every time i see a plain flat rail & stile panel. I think a taller slimmer panel detail would still go with the rest of the paneling yet it would distinguish it from the other areas. Just my thoughts.

__________________
Do what you would do, as if i won't Do anything after you Did It!

TBFGhost

ok, I was thinking that it might be too much...thanks for imput. I will play around with it a little.

TBFGhost

Ok, so after much heming and hawing, my father decided that he wanted to put the MDF bead board look in there. So I just made a 1"x1/2" Poplar corner and ran the MDF down. Toped it off by just running the wainscot cap/chair rail right down and around the corner ending it into the pantry. Not too bad for $60 and a few hours on a stormy winter monday night. Its 23:30 now, and I just finished cleaning up.

Here is a crappy cell phone photo I took somewhere along the lines to send a friend who asked me what I was up to...


Here is another question, but I should refer to the flooring section...as you can see a new floor is about to go down. The crew that is coming in suggested all the lauan be torn up and replaced with "premium" underlayment. The lauan floor that is there is pretty damn good shape....what do you guys think....replace with the "new" premium underlayment, or keep the old stuff? What is the difference between the two?

Pardon the mess as well...I kind of just piled everything on top of the table and the far counter in pure lazyness to get at the wall and to hold my tools...

basswood

I gotta get to work, but here is a quick answer:

The premium UL is likely a 5-ply, 5mm, Baltic birch. It is more stable and less likely to have voids or delaminate than luan. Using luan may void your warranty for the floor...not a huge deal. Luan was the standard UL for a decade or more.

On the other hand, I like to be as helpful to the installer as possible and let them call the shots (within reason)--that's why I hired them.

All the best,

Bass

D.Foster

Looks good Ghost!! I see that this job may have called for a new toy, Ridgid perhaps??
( box on table)

__________________
Do what you would do, as if i won't Do anything after you Did It!

neolitic

Looks nice,
but I give the credit to your "helper."
I miss mine.

Go with the Baltic birch underlayment.
Lauan isn't a good material, and I
wouldn't want to warrant it after a
tear-off either.

__________________
Put your location in your profile!
(Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)

TBFGhost

LOL, yeah I returned my Rigid 18 awg nailer and got another. The first would not set pins so I had a brandy new one for this job...gotta love the lifetime warrenty. Thanks for the info on the underlayment. I will relay in the info to the GC (my father). It is going to be up to him to decided how he feels about spending the money. He had been very....economical with this house if you will.....

Talked him into the "premium" underlayment

I looked up the floor covering company and then their install guide. They are calling for...

• APA Underlaymant
• APA C-C Plugged EXT
• Veneer-faced Strud-I-Floor with 'sanded face'
• Underlayment A-C
• Underlayment B-C
• Marine EXT or sanded plywood grades marked "Plugged crossbands underface", "Plugged crossbands or core", 'Plugged innerplys or 'Meets underlayment Requirements".

I found that this stuff called SurePly www.sureply.com is reccommended by the installer. Its sold at Lowes. I called around trying to see if the local yards carried it but the best I could come up with was a Lauan with plugged crossbands...and that would only end up saving $50 total...so Lowes it is I guess.

It wasn't too many years ago my father would have done all this himself....****ing cancer treatments screwed with his mind...now he gets confused really easily at times so he just passes the work down to me. But you can tell his mind is still there, is just takes longer to get out what he needs it to. The biggest reason I quit smoking was that... I can't argue working for the guy tho...he is my father, and while he does try to pay me I usally won't let him so he will pay for something I used instead...like with the new floor I am getting a new 1/4" crown stapler. Plus I get the learning experiance....running into "new" things like this underlayment helps me out in the long run.

Deadhead Derek

x2....

__________________
www.darkstarltd.net
Hand-crafted Traditional Masonic Furniture
and Coffins

TBFGhost

too late now...lol...

TBFGhost

Not too much progress today....ripped up the old floor and started putting down the new underlayment. The new underlayment calls for ~350 staples in each sheet. That is about 3100 staples for the whole floor. Found out that the little bump out put on the kitchen in the early nintys was made so that its sub floor was flush to two layers of old flooring. So I just left those two layers being they were intact. I left my shop vac on the job, so I was using that GE you see in the photo...damn thing was way more powerful then I expected...

neolitic

I see you still have good help.

__________________
Put your location in your profile!
(Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)

Teetorbilt

Looks like everything is going well and your "help" looks like a few that I've hired over the years. Didn't last long.

__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

Albert Einstein

TBFGhost

lol, yeah, my "help" is much better now that the Paslode Cordless are in less use...she used to take off when the Paslodes fired. Today after work I am gonna go find this seam filler crap they have in the instructions. They gave me two ways to install the floor, with and with out expansion joints. I chose to use exp joints b/c everything else in the house has shrunk this winter, so I don't want joints to telegraph through in the summer when things expand again.

neolitic

The ideal situation is to bring
the underlayment into the house
and let it acclimatize for several
days before you lay it.
Plan B would be to wait a few days
before you put the joint filler in.
In which case, you want to clean
the joints out carefully to get out
anything trcked in there due to
the normal kitchen traffic.
A little patience goes a long way
towards a job that will hold up.

__________________
Put your location in your profile!
(Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)