How many teeth? - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

mdshunk · 03-23-2008, 10:33 AM

I'm going to try my hand at making a few cabinets for different places around the house. They're getting painted, so if I screw up much it won't matter. One question, though. I've selected poplar to make the face frames out of, but what type of blade do I need for the miter saw? I have a 12" SCMS, and it has whatever blade came in it, which I'm sure is an all purpose blade of sorts. What blade would be best, in terms of number of teeth, for finish type work?

Tom R · 03-23-2008, 10:39 AM

80 teeth minimum for finish work for a 12" blade.

nywoodwizard · 03-23-2008, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdshunk

I'm going to try my hand at making a few cabinets for different places around the house. They're getting painted, so if I screw up much it won't matter. One question, though. I've selected poplar to make the face frames out of, but what type of blade do I need for the miter saw? I have a 12" SCMS, and it has whatever blade came in it, which I'm sure is an all purpose blade of sorts. What blade would be best, in terms of number of teeth, for finish type work?

A crosscut around 80 or better is best, but can be less. Its not just amount of tooth either ,its quality of blade also. You can purchase a cheap 80-100 blade that has poor quality carbide that does not hold an edge too long. Not many people are aware there are different grades of carbide.

reveivl · 03-23-2008, 10:45 AM

The more the merrier.

mdshunk · 03-23-2008, 10:51 AM

Thanks, guys.

I checked the one that came on it, and it's a 60. I guess if I hadn't already used it for cutting lots of framing lumber and PT, I might have been able to get away with it if I cut slowly.

I've tended to favor Freud blades and router bits in the past for other things, for no particular reason other than it seemed decent and locally available. The other easily available choices for me are DeWalt and Hitachi. Of the three brands, which one seems better for this purpose?

**BuiltByMAC** · 03-23-2008, 10:54 AM

I get some seriously smooth cuts out of my Freud finish blades(80 tpb), both on my chop and table saws. No experience with the others...

Mac

A.W.Davis · 03-23-2008, 11:16 AM

We will only use one brand of saw blades for our finish work and thats Frued. I have them in our table saws, sliding compound miter saws, and circular saws.

Ohh and 80 teeth blades are what we use on our miter and table saws

Splinter · 03-23-2008, 11:21 AM

Yep, I keep a Freud in the circ saw for cutting sheet goods into manageable pieces, and another Freud in the 12" chop saw.. Even a new 60 tooth will leave some smoooooooth cuts in hard woods.

I keep a forrest woodworker II on the table saw though... Love that blade. It's pricey though.

neolitic · 03-23-2008, 11:25 AM

Another vote for Freud.
The Avanti if you can find it.

mdshunk · 03-23-2008, 11:28 AM

Sounds like Frued is what I'm buying, then. It's likely to be the only finish blade I'll ever need in my life, so I might as well get a half-decent one.

Tom R · 03-23-2008, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by neolitic

Another vote for Freud.
The Avanti if you can find it.

That's the one I use . . .

wink · 03-23-2008, 11:49 AM

i try to never let framing or pt lumber touch my trim saw. soom guys swear that it doesn't matter, but i belive that it gets the blade dirty faster and therefore poorer quality cuts. this leads to some interesting comments when someone comes up with a 2x4 and says, that they are going to use my saw to make a cut. well just my 2 cents

mikezap · 03-23-2008, 12:04 PM

Blade teeth count is designed for a purpose. 40-60 tooth for table saws, 60-80 and up for crosscut. I havent bought a Freud in years, but for the guy like Mdshunk a inexpensive Freud will do just fine. My personal favorite is Amana, backed up by Matsu****a and Forrest. You'll get the best performance by using the proper blade.

Hahaha.. They edit out Matsu****a because it has a bad word in it. Well, it's pronounced Mat-su-sheet-uh.

mdshunk · 03-23-2008, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikezap

havent bought a Freud in years, but for the guy like Mdshunk a inexpensive Freud will do just fine. My personal favorite is Amana, backed up by Matsu****a and Forrest. You'll get the best performance by using the proper blade.

If an 'inexpensive' blade is 50 or 60 bucks, what are these high-class blades running? I know if you do this for a living, you need the best you can get your hands on, most times. I'm just curious, is all.

mikezap · 03-23-2008, 12:47 PM

Higher end blades run from 100 to 150 bucks. Like anything else, you can find bargains on the net. Remember, just because a blade has 80 teeth it's not necisarily(sp) a crosscut blade. It might be a melamine blade designed for a table saw.

Wow, Mdshunk asking for advice.

Jason W · 03-23-2008, 01:01 PM

Stay away from the ultra thin blades. They tend to cut wider at the surface because they're less stable untill it gets in the wood a bit. This causes the joint to look open when you put it together.

**framerman** · 03-23-2008, 01:22 PM

I have had good success with both the DeWalt and Hitachi blades. Never liked Freud blades. Forrest for the table saw, absolutely! Thin kerf...no.

Any of these blades you'd be happy with, any finish carpenter would use them

Systematic
Forrest
Tenryu
Matsu****a (though usually thin kerf)

If you get a combination blade, it'll cut the 45's easier, but not really a finer cut all around. 60 teeth for what you're saying you're doing is fine, 80-100 preferable for the woodworkers.

john5mt · 03-23-2008, 01:30 PM

Quote:

If an 'inexpensive' blade is 50 or 60 bucks, what are these high-class blades running? I know if you do this for a living, you need the best you can get your hands on, most times. I'm just curious, is all.

My 80 tooth twelve inch ridge carbide costs $140.

Then its 35 Bucks a pop to sharpen

mdshunk · 03-23-2008, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikezap

Wow, Mdshunk asking for advice.

I know 'bout lots of things, but finish carpentry isn't one of them. My dad was a good finish carpenter, but he used a mechanical miter box with a back saw.

john5mt · 03-23-2008, 01:34 PM

Quote:

i try to never let framing or pt lumber touch my trim saw. soom guys swear that it doesn't matter, but i belive that it gets the blade dirty faster and therefore poorer quality cuts. this leads to some interesting comments when someone comes up with a 2x4 and says, that they are going to use my saw to make a cut. well just my 2 cents

Everyone usually thinks i am anal cuz i wont let them use my table or miter saw on site. I just tell them what my blades cost and they sometimes get the hint.