How Many Pocket Doors Are Enough??

woodbutcher2004

Good morning all. Brand new here. Found the forum while searching for Pocket Door details.
I design homes for a Retail Lumber Yard and have a customer that emailed me asking to change all closet doors to pocket doors.
Now I've done two in my lifetime and my father has done a few more. Not super keen on the wall strength etctera but it's what the customer is asking for.
Now. The only thing I can see for the majority of this home's closet doors is to specify Double Pockets. Most of the closets are between 4 and 6 feet wide and 30' deep frame center to frame center. If I use single pockets then the opening is set to one side of closet and the door will have to be small.

Some of the measurements I'm looking at:
Smallest closet is 48" inside stud frame to inside stud frame. I'm pulling 3 inches off for inside corner/jack studs (one each side of opening) then pulling off an additional inch for hardware etc. In the 48 inch closet this leaves 44 inches. If I divide that in two I am thinking double 22" door panels would allow me to center door system in opening and allow the most access space to closet. (Remember, customer wants Pocket Doors so I am living in Pocket Door world).

I scanned a while but didn't see listing for double door hardware. Anyone have experience with a double pocket? Can you offer some insider tips?

Thanks in advance. I'll continue drawing in double doors checking back often. If the advice goes strongly against double pockets I'll explain to customer and see if we can go more standard.

woodbutcher2004

So far I've learned as I check into this that the double pocket isnt as unique as I thought. In fact at this lumber yard we simply order two standard pocket frames and a convergence kit to assist in aligning the doors when closed at center.
The frames get cut to fit the door in question (1'-8").

Still very interested in hearing your opinions, suggestions.

woodiscool

I have done about 100 to 150 pocket doors and they are a huge pain. Double pockets are twice as much of a pain as singles. One thing I saw was you were thinking about 22' doors? they would be special order($$$). Make sure the track is level so when the jambs are plumbed it works out square. Securly attach the track to the header of the framing. If not the doors may sag over time and you will never be able to plumb the doors to match inside and outside the pocket because of flex in the track. Generally I have seen double pockets going into a study or dining room. Think about the wall space you will need to hide the doors when they are open. Make the jack stud as plumb as you can because if they are out you will see a reveal change on the door, and you won't have to sacrifice the size of the opening when plumbing the jamb. It is also very important to make sure the opening is in plane. If not you will struggle with its operation, and believe me this is one of the biggest pains with pocket doors there is.

There are hundreds of tricks but the best advice I could give you would be to hire a reputable finish carpenter for the project and get there input in the framing stages or before sheetrock. This way they can either frame and install the pocket door from frame to finish or inform you of things that need to be done so your getting the best finish product. Good Luck

neolitic

If the HO can't be reasoned with, I'd make sure that the trim carpenter set the R/I frame.
Framers are not going to get this right(at least the odds are very highly stacked).
Also the finish carpenter will have to be really careful when installing shelves, rods...
And you know this PITA lady is gonna want the closets stuffed to the max.
All that said, the pocket frame isn't really made to take any weight (shelves,rods,etc.),
so I'd specify a double wall on the closet side.
Again, have the finish guy handle this, prior to R/I's.
Hey, then she can even have the light switches that you know she's gonna want!
2¢

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troubleseeker

Some of my thoughts exactly. I would line the interior side of the pocket wall with 3/4 " plywood floor to ceiling before sheetrocking; the wider jamb trim inside the closet will not be objectionable and you are ready for anything.

The problem with building an inner 2 x 4 wall as you suggested is that there is very little chance that the designer has enough depth on the closets to loose this much and still be able to fit hanging . But the light switch location problem with a pocket on each side is a very real issue.

Very big truth about having the trim guy prep the openings before drywalling, and double the potential trouble for converging doors. I know I am anal, but the only person that touches a pocket door on a job is me, from roughing in to trim out.

The outer studs that will receive the jamb trim must be absolutely plumb and square across from each other, as well as being absolutely parallel with the opposite door's ones, or the double units will always have something out of line. Set them with a plumb bob. Also be sure to shim the track near midpoint and secure it to the header above with a long screw, as the two tracks coupled with the converging kit will sag in the center.

With todays modern hardware and proper installation, they are reliable for many years of service, but there is nothing that will be a long term nuisance like a poor quality pocket door install.

leakygoose

Great posts , all good info . It seems that pocket track & frames are always installed by framer [in the rain/snow] and the builder/super never checks for plumb ,square or level . As a finish carpenter and knowing I will be the one responsible in the end-- I always offer to install them before drywall.

Splinter

I dont do a lot of new construction, but whenever possible, I try to get the pocket wall framed with 2x6 plates so the pocket area under the header can be framed with 2x4's installed sideways (on the flat). Thats 1.5" of wood on either side of the door totaling 3" resting on a 5.5" plate. Now I have 2.5" remaining for the door itself to slide in and regular outlet and switchboxes wont interfere... It's also a lot stronger so you can install closet poles and shelves, and the wall wont have a flimsy feel to it either.

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silvertree

Double pocket is triple work. I check my openings (rough) with door level, framing square and straight edge on bottom. Still end up tweaking them, forever it seems. Job for a guy who knows how to cheat. I like them though for the obvious reason but somehow always seem to end up messing with them. Never had to go back after I'm done though. I might finally be good at pocket doors, or just dumb luck. It seems no two go in exactly the same.
But for a double I would build a wider wall, however you can achieve this.
plywood and then sheetrock over that, all you need is wider stop when you trim.

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Kgmz

Maybe I am tired and not thinking right, but what are you taking about with the 3" and the inside corner jack studs?

You do know that your pocket door frame opening is going to have to be around 8 feet wide. Or in your case with 22" doors, 90" wide. 2 times the width of each door plus 1" on each side.

troubleseeker

2 x 6 plates for pocket set ups is my hands down personal choice, but the architects and designers don't have a clue, so you usually are stuck with working with a 2 x 4 wall. I really hate those damn flimsy studs.

Torn-Again

Use two kits

TrimmanVa

Make sure when you run your base you dont shoot into the door.

silvertree

I prefer to shoot the nails into the door through the casing, then I don't have to bend down to fix the scratches in the finish.

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orson

hehe....been there brother

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silvertree

great answer. thanks for the


Joe