Glass Doors For Built In - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

KMac · 11-19-2008, 03:28 PM

I need to order two sets of glass doors for a built in and was wondering what the rule of thumb is for sizing glass doors. How much should I deduct from the opening for two glass doors? I never installed glass without it being inside a frame.

Tom R · 11-19-2008, 09:49 PM

(Just 'til someone else comes along) . . .

You're not giving much information on your application, - - and it's not something I generally do, - - but it sounds to me like I'd subtract 3/16" from the height (leaving 3/32" gaps), - - and 1/4" from the width (which then gets divided in two, leaving 3/32" gaps on the outside edges, and 1/16" in the middle). That would be the tightest I'd want to go.

But of course, - - there are several other factors involved.

Mainly, - - how accurate will your glass be cut (you may have to leave slightly larger allowances, according to your supplier's tolerance range).

Also, - - is your opening perfectly square, and will the glass(es) be cut perfectly square??

Do the hinges you're going to use require a certain minimum clearance??

How dimensionally stable is the material you're using for the rest of the unit, and how constant is the humidity level in the room/building??

Sounds like you already have the unit built??

Generally, if I was going to custom build a unit that was going to need frameless glass doors, - - I would figure and order the glass before the build, - - then their 'tolerances' wouldn't have to enter the equation.

But, - - if I did need to get the glass last, - - I would get them made locally, - - so I could double check their accuracy upon purchase.

(Where the hell's Leo when you need him??)

skymaster · 11-19-2008, 09:54 PM

Kmac; make your doors, take em to your glass shop, pick em up when they have em ready :}:}

Another important factor is the size, there is code issues, after a specific size that glass has to be tempered glass. Tempered has to be ORDERED to a specific size and cannot be cut therefore back to my suggestion; let the glass shop worry about sizes etc.

Tom R · 11-19-2008, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skymaster

Kmac; make your doors, take em to your glass shop, pick em up when they have em ready :}:}

Maybe I'm not understanding him right.

I'm thinking he's talking about (from his wording) 'frameless' glass doors . . .

KMac · 11-19-2008, 11:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom R

(Just 'til someone else comes along) . . .

You're not giving much information on your application, - - and it's not something I generally do, - - but it sounds to me like I'd subtract 3/16" from the height (leaving 3/32" gaps), - - and 1/4" from the width (which then gets divided in two, leaving 3/32" gaps on the outside edges, and 1/16" in the middle). That would be the tightest I'd want to go.

But of course, - - there are several other factors involved.

Mainly, - - how accurate will your glass be cut (you may have to leave slightly larger allowances, according to your supplier's tolerance range).

Also, - - is your opening perfectly square, and will the glass(es) be cut perfectly square??

Do the hinges you're going to use require a certain minimum clearance??

How dimensionally stable is the material you're using for the rest of the unit, and how constant is the humidity level in the room/building??

Sounds like you already have the unit built??

Generally, if I was going to custom build a unit that was going to need frameless glass doors, - - I would figure and order the glass before the build, - - then their 'tolerances' wouldn't have to enter the equation.

But, - - if I did need to get the glass last, - - I would get them made locally, - - so I could double check their accuracy upon purchase.

(Where the hell's Leo when you need him??)

Thanks for the reply.

I guess i should have ordered the doors first but now I need to get them made. They're going to be 1/4" tempered and I have the hardware and all already but no info with the hinges.

I was thinking right along the same lines - 3/32" gaps or so - maybe an 1/8". Seems like when i have seen them done before the gap was larger all the way around though.

Wood movement shouldn't be an issue moisture content is good now and will be in a controlled environment.

Tom R · 11-20-2008, 07:12 AM

Yeah, - - they use the bigger gaps for their own convenience, not the customers. Less chance for error or rubbing, and more room for deviation in straightness or squareness.

1/8" gaps would be OK, - - but that should probably be an absolute maximum.

Let us know how it works out.

Pics, pics, pics . . .

KMac · 11-20-2008, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom R

Yeah, - - they use the bigger gaps for their own convenience, not the customers. Less chance for error or rubbing, and more room for deviation in straightness or squareness.

1/8" gaps would be OK, - - but that should probably be an absolute maximum.

Let us know how it works out.

Pics, pics, pics . . .

I definitely will be taking pics and will certainly post some. Install is first week of December. Thanks again!