Favorite Door Profile?

mics_54

What is your favorite door profile for inset cabinet doors on beaded face frame cabinets?

rselectric1

3/4 overlay with plain old shaker style (medium rail)-yes I know that's not inset.

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catawba

15 degree face cut raised panel.

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samccard

Shaker. I think I would want a solid panel not a 1/4" panel.

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Gus Dering

I like a flat panel door with an applied molding in a beaded frame.
Like these





My next favorite is the same door with the bead on the door rather than the frame.

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TBFGhost

...maybe I am just simple, but I like Shaker style...

Leo G

Gotta agree with the classic 15º bevel.

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Scribbles

Whatever style the ppl with da the money tell me to make.

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Leo G

Think that's a bit broad Scribbles

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Scribbles

Na I am just a wood whore.

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Leo G

Fine by me.

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mics_54

OK then On the finished endpanels with crown...do you put a filler to makeup for the front edge over hang...or do you make the front edge flush with the EP?

Gus Dering

You're just trying to get a rise out of me. I'm on to you Leo

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Leo G

Well...that is a feature you only find on a premade or as I call them a box cabinet. I hate how they do that. When I have to deal with it (only twice in my career so far) I have notched out the face frame at the crown level and return it on the side of the cabinet without a spacer to muddy the look.

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Leo G

Doesn't seem to take much these days

This is my main door profile. I have sold thousands of these doors. The client asks me what would last, and not be passe'. It is the raised panel door, no arches or cathedral. It will pass the test of time.

I have grown up with this type of a panel. I did a lot of 18th century reproduction work and the raised panel and the shaker style panel was the most common. I think the shaker style is a bit plain. Add a molding and it looks a bit better. Make it a raised panel and it reeks of class.

Just like you Gus.

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mics_54

What else?

Old Skhool

The underneath portion of the uppers always look unfinished to me. I would put a strip across across the back (along the wall) closing in the recess. Personally I don't care for the cove mold at the bottom of the cabinet. It adds another layer to the already unfinished look of the bottom of the uppers. A little busy for me.

Unusual, but I'd like to see the recess at the bottom trimmed with a very small 1/4 round mold, giving the upper a finished look from all angles.

Gus Dering

Misc,

One thing you can do to create more room for the under cab light is raise the deck up about 3/8" and use it as a door stop as well.

It will need to be edge banded prior to clamping on the frame and should be sized down accordingly.



I am in full on, 100%, with out a doubt agreement with Leo about your finished ends being flush with the frame. (there I said it and I'm still here)

I think you must be stuck on the notion that dadoing the box into the frame is the way to go. If you want to listen to me, let that go as a thing of the past. Not worth the effort and you are not stuck with the modular cabinet look at the finished ends.

We get great results with glue only holding the frame on. In some cases where clamping is not convenient a few pocket screws do the trick if you can hide them.

Have you got a pocket cutter yet? It will change your life to the better.

For the record this is not at all a bad look.

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mics_54

Good idea Gus.

Gus Dering

I'll do my best and not let it die of loneliness.

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