Door Catch/Strike Plate Issue

icfbunt

Hello all. I have a 32" interior door where the strike plate is about 1/4" too high, ie, the catch will not engage into the strike plate. I can either make the hole in the strike plate bigger, or lower the strike plate. If I lower the plate I will have a gap I need to fill and paint,....if I do this what filler works best and holds up? Or would you prefer to grind the hole in the strike plate larger?

Thanks!!!!!!
Bunt

mdshunk

I know they make "ut-oh!" type strike plates with an offset hole, but I don't know any brands. Seen them on the hook at the local hardware store.

mickeyco

Cut 1/4" off the top of the door and lower the entire house 1/4", problem solved.

I'd go with what MD has suggested.

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neolitic

If this is an old house, and the door
has sagged over time, you might just
pull it back with a 2½" screw through
the "inside" hole in the top hinge.

(I usually do that when I hang heavy
doors just for the insurance.)

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Smitty69

I agree...QUICK FIX is to use a simple die grinder to make hole bigger.

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icfbunt

Never thought 'bout lowerin' the house.

Bunt

dkillianjr

I say first screw in top hinge, if that dosent work see if you can grind enough on the strike plate for it to latch.

Does the latch on the door have a plate or is it the tap in style? If it is the tap in style, get a latch with a plate, oval the hole in the door down, slightly oval the knob hole down so the knob still covers it, mortise the plate in the door at the proper level.

And if that isin't gonna work, fill the strike plate holes with golf tees, raise it, and putty.


Dave

arconstruction

Dremel and cut plate larger then dremel it with a buff pad all done ...but i do like the idea of lowering the house a 1/4" lol

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genecarp

add a ball catch, done

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DEAD_ONConst

Have you determined why the strike is set too high? Is it a manufacturer defect/improperly cut/installed striker? floor not level and jamb not cut to compensate?

I think I would look for the root of the problem before I went grinding/ extending the mortise and trying to fill it in. Just seems more of a pain in the long run, then if there is an issue later with the door or jamb, then what? Just a suggestion..

TimelessQuality

Better check your local codes ... might need a permit.

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Railman

I usually start with looking at the door margins. If the margins will allow it, I shim (or bend) the bottom hinge, & put a long screw behind top hinge to pull the top hinge & jamb back in. More often than not, this will realign the strike. If still not aligned, grind, or file the strike as mentioned previously.

If you want to move, & fill, use automotive body filler ( "Bondo"). There are also some newer epoxy patch's out that look like they'd be perfect for what you need, but I haven't tried them yet.
Joe

icfbunt

Poor installation. I don't think it ever worked from the get go.

Thks!!
Bunt

skylands

Poor installation. That's another set of opportunities.

On doors that have been installed using air nailers, I have been able to put a flat bar under the hinge side and pry up. Then put those long screws in.

I've had a modular or two that I had to pull the casing and cut the nails and reset the doors. In this case instead of lowering the house, I should have sent it back.

orson

best filler for something like that is bondo.

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john5mt

how are the reveals around the door between the jamb and door are they even or way off? Id be willing to bet if you look at the top theres a huge gap above the strike side.

If they are way off you may be better off pulling it out and rehanging it. Other wise you may fix this problem and then the house settles a little and the door starts rubbing.

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