Determining Exact Tangent Point For Stair Fittings

troubleseeker

Anyone have any solutions to share on this annoyance? When using a pitch block to locate the tangent point for cutting stair fittings, the theory of course is that to two will touch at a very tiny, finite point, the geometric tangent. The real world is that the pitch block contacts the fitting for about 1/2 to 5/8 of any inch. I use the middle of this area as the "true tangent" but after assembling the rail, it becomes obvious that this is usually not exactly true, but it doesn't seem to be off on all connections. Is seems that the starting volutes will be nice and level, while the gooseneck risers will end up slightly out of level. Has anyone else experienced this?

StairBuilder

That's as good as it gets. I try to have a white background (wall) behind it when I sight the tangent point, so I can get as close as possible. But the reality is, with so many variables, it will only be perfect when you get lucky. I am obviously as careful as I can be but I still expect to have to adjust my cut every time.
The trick is to make your adjustments on the rail-not the easing. Cut the easing once and be done with it. I never cut an easing more than once. Even if I know I moved and got off a degree or whatever, it doesn't matter. It's easy to adjust it out with a rail cut.
For "goosenecks" I have a method that works very well but would be hard for me to describe this late at night.
The bottom line is that you can never trust your easing cuts to be perfect and just fall into place with square rail and/or drop cuts- too many variables. I trust one thing-my 16" stabila!

troubleseeker

Thanks for reply Stairbuilder, I agree that making an adjustment to the handrail cut is pretty straight forward , it's just that the out of level doesn't show up until you have assembled the rail and set it atop the newels. It is disassembling those aggravating connector bolts that gives me the red hiney . I was hoping that someone had discovered a magic cure for this.

StairBuilder

That's a problem that never goes away. I know some guys assemble their rail and fittings on the stairs. I build mine on top of the posts.
I put the starter fitting (volute or other) on the post and hold it level either with sticks or my helper. Then put the rail in place on temporary supports. I then cut the rail until the joint is tight while the fitting is level. This ends up very close every time. This way you bolt it once and you're done.