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#1 |
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Finishing Carpenter
Trade: finishing Carpenter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Coquitlam B.C. Canada
Posts: 905
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Dealing With Wavy Hardwood Floors
installing a lot of baseboard these days, largely due to the popularity of the new "snap together" hardwood (composite) flooring. this is good for me!!! lotsa work.
problem that I run into fairly often, is that the floor is wavy, or humped at at least one place on the runs. If its high in the middle, not problem, I "balance" the baseboard (so both ends are the same height above the floor) and then scribe with a pencil/scriber from the end to the other end. I then cut it almost to the line, then finish up with a sanding block. what really causes me grief and time is when the two ends touch the floor, and the middle has a gap!!!! grrrrrr so what I was trained to do was put a sacraficial piece in, scribe it- cut- then cut that piece off (up about 1/2") so now I've got a chunk of baseboard that's 1/2" high on each end, flat on top, and convex in the middle (to match the floor) next I take another piece of baseboard, also cut 1/2" off of that. Now take my custom piece, and glue/pin it onto the second piece, then install in the room. Way too much work!!!! if its 1/16th or so I would just ignore it, or caulk, but when the gap approaches 3/8" (or more) I have to do something. what do you all do in situations like this? Sometimes if its MDF baseboard I can force it down a little bit, but with finger joint? it won't move hardly at all. what I have done occasionally is trim both ends, but then the matching piece of baseboard is now too high, so I cut that on a taper - makes for an interesting cope! LOL there's gotta be a better way to do this! thx Laurie. www.lauriescustomfinishing.ca Last edited by Mrmac204; 08-25-2009 at 10:32 AM. Reason: add stuff |
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#2 |
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You did what??
Trade: Carpenter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: North of Atlanta
Posts: 6,588
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Re: Dealing With Wavy Hardwood Floors
shoe mould?
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#3 |
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Finishing Carpenter
Trade: finishing Carpenter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Coquitlam B.C. Canada
Posts: 905
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Re: Dealing With Wavy Hardwood Floors
I do suggest shoe mould, yea. NOt every client likes that look though.
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#4 | |
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I like Green things
Trade: Custom Carpentry Services
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: In a van, down by the river. Auburn, IN
Posts: 11,667
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Re: Dealing With Wavy Hardwood FloorsQuote:
You should tell them it would be cheaper to put the shoe mold in, vs. screwing around with the wavey floors.
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Warner Remodeling ll Auburn Indiana Remodeling ll Dekalb County Remodeling ll Custom Woodworking Auburn Indiana Warner Remodeling Facebook |
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#5 |
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Pro
Trade: Finish Carpenter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 243
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Re: Dealing With Wavy Hardwood Floors
Shoe for sure - check the floor before when first looking at the job and just tell them the floor is way too far out to not have shoe and explain it'll wind up costing them more not to have it. I'm talking about extreme conditions - I've scribed my share of base to the floor with no shoe when that's what they want and it's feasible.
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#6 |
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Contractor
Trade: Remodeling & Home Additions
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Delaware
Posts: 2,434
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Re: Dealing With Wavy Hardwood Floors
I second shoe on a floor light that. I try hard not to use shoe, but sometimes the situation call for it. I've had luck pushing down on the high spot and nailing it down-not a half inch though. You could back cut the bottom/back of the base to weaken the wood then apply pressure down.
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#7 |
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Member
Trade: Trim Carpenter/Electrician/Tile Setter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Collins NY
Posts: 51
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Re: Dealing With Wavy Hardwood Floors
I allways use shoe with laminate flooring, just because it moves so much. Make sure you nail the shoe into the base and NOT into the laminate.
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#8 |
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chief pencil holder
Trade: Custom Cabinet Maker, Handrail
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: sacramento CA
Posts: 1,270
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Re: Dealing With Wavy Hardwood Floors
I tape a piece of 1/4 to my pencil, then I scribe holding it up at the thickest place with another piece of 1/4 scrap. I use a 36 grit belt on the belt sander makes quick work of it.
1/2" or 3/4" will work just as well dosent matter. Hell I use 1 1/4" on my curved nosing.
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http://sacramentomillworks.com |
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#9 |
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Member
Trade: carpentry
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Wisconsin - the boondocks
Posts: 30
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Re: Dealing With Wavy Hardwood Floors
Is this just on one wall? Why not just start with that wall and scribe. Then rip all the rest to the new height established in the corners?
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#10 | |
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Finishing Carpenter
Trade: finishing Carpenter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Coquitlam B.C. Canada
Posts: 905
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Re: Dealing With Wavy Hardwood FloorsQuote:
hmm food for thought- I will try that. Like most construction projects, experience, and a bit of planning ahead of time can make all the diff. On the last baseboard job (5 1/4" finger joint) the one section of the "front room" goes like this from the sliding door (casing) 1' slightly downhill - 46 deg inside corner, meets 4' piece, humped in middle, 44 deg outside corner, meets 13" piece that "rises" almost 7/16" to wall. Meets the Next piece, 90 deg corner 13 1/2' long, I cut to match (7/16" off) to 1/4" to match the 4' piece (90 deg) that had to be trimed at both ends to allow for the "hollow" in the floor. fortunately I love this work! it just took more time than I bid so thanks! Laurie www.lauriescustomfinishing.ca |
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#11 |
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Pro
Trade: Carpentry
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 217
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Re: Dealing With Wavy Hardwood Floors
I have a customer that demands the best quality no matter what, so shoe was out of the question. I placed a rotary laster in the middle of the room, found the low and high points, took the delta, set the scribe and scribed every piece. Sure it was alot of work and not everyone is willing to pay for it, but it looks perfect.
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#12 |
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Builder of Stuff
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Re: Dealing With Wavy Hardwood Floors
This one's easy. Go to the lumber yard, and look for the really badly crowned sticks.
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#13 |
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New Guy
Trade: carpenter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 21
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Re: Dealing With Wavy Hardwood Floors
Install base shoe. The whole reason behind base shoe is to hide the gaps. They have be installing it sinse the early 1900's. Its why they make it. If the HO does not like it, charge to scibe in the base. why would he not like it,this is the norm. What are we going to hang doors upside down now because of these finicky designers. Also once you scribe the baseboard and he doesn't like some of the gaps you tried like hell to correct, Then What.
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