Crown Moulding

mnjconstruction

Ok I have been in buisness for 13 years, run a very successful company. We do just about everything minus elec, plumb, heat. but all aspects of carpentry. Me myself, I do everything except trim. Yes I trim windows/doors , simple stuff but always have a hard time with crown. And I am embarassed to say it, but I really should be alot better at it. Luckily I have a guy thats been with me for 8 years now that is awesome at it. But its hard for me to go to him and say, how do I do it? I did one last wek by myself, I finally figured it out but it took me like 3 hours and I wasted alot of expensive crown in the process. I get the coping thing but how do I figure out the correct miter and bevel? There must be a better way then trial and error? Any help would be great.

mnjconstruction

Also something I just thought of is this, I have seen great trim carpenters cut it differently. Some lay it flat, others cut it propped up at the spring angle. Which is the easiest way? I have also looked online at a tool called bosch miter finder. Its suppose to measure any angle and provides the miter and bevel angles of any crown. Any of you guys use this? Does it work and is it worth the money?

basswood

Here is a link to a free online article on the subject. You can click on the PDF.

http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuild...x?nterms=65282

I build jigs to hold the crown "bedded" at the spring angle, and cut "upside down and backwards." I find it faster and more accurate than cutting crown flat and messing with the bevel settings.

I use a Starrett Miter Protractor for measuring angles.

http://www.starrett.com/pages/1242_p...every_time.cfm

You can also cut short test pieces for 45* and 44* and 46*, etc. and see what fits.

Attached Images

 

loneframer

I like to cut crown inverted in the same position it will be mounted. Once I determine the distance from the ceiling to the bottom of the crown I mark that height on the saw fence, hold a piece of the crown on that mark and scribe along the top with a razor knife across the width of the fence. That will give a reference line to repeat the cut. When using test cuts, if the top is open, you would reduce the angle of the saw on an inside corner or vice- vesa if the top is tight. Always COPE inside corners. Always stay on your reference line on the fence. I'll only cut crown flat if it won't fit in the saw upright, its much more confusing if you have to adjust the angle of the miter.

basswood

Here is another jig pic:

Attached Thumbnails

 

The Invetor

Hey Bass,

I looked at that article.Do you agree with having 2 copes on one wall or do you start with a cope into a removable "starter" to avoid the potential problems?

Mike

__________________
"A good reputation is more valuable then money."

D.Foster

I work with a hitachi 10" slide saw. And on the angle scale it has symbols which indicate the miter and bevel for crown if you cut it on the flat. You can also position the trim on the ceiling and make pencil lines on the ceiling until they intersect then use a bevel gauge to transfer the angle to your saw.( IF you dont want to buy a angle finder)

__________________
Do what you would do, as if i won't Do anything after you Did It!

basswood

Hi Mike,

I don't mind double coping, but I probably install more crown than most trim carpenters.

Since a most of my work is solo, I actually have developed a method of using the coped end to hold the end of the next piece for me... and I run the crown in reverse order (rather than adding a coped end over a piece butted into the corner... I slip the butt cut in behind the cope).

I mentioned this in the coping thread and posted some pics there.

Might not be the best method for everyone... but I have some goofy tendencies.

Hardly Working

I found this one helpful.
http://www.installcrown.com/

Basswood big thanks for the tall fence method. Built one a few weeks back and took it to the jobsite and my PM thought I was wasting time with it. I told him I was just trying to raise my level of work a notch above his. The other carpenter on site loved it since he was doing tall base with alot of returns.

Find some scrap and build one it's worth the time!!!!

The Invetor

Hmm..interesting,and makes sense.
I will give this a try.
Thanks

__________________
"A good reputation is more valuable then money."

basswood

Hey, It's great that it worked for you. If the fence is "zero clearance" it also helps keep small returns from becoming projectiles...PING...THUMP!

mnjconstruction

Bass, do you always work by yourself?

silvertree

I have cut crown flat, upside down against the fence and held up the way its installed. I have an electric angle finder and thats a good tool to have.
I mostly cope my inside miters for walls but never when doing cabinets, then I cut accurate and glue my inside miters.
I like cutting up against the fence more than flat.
I use a dewalt 12" and a hitachi 8.5" slider. I also use the "Red" blades I think there called diablo, not the best, but pretty good. I use a Freud blade on my Dewalt 12.

__________________
Vote for Pedro
Kitchen, bath, St Paul remodeling
Minneapolis Remodel Blog
203K Loan Consultant Minnesota

JLTrim

I cut upside down and backwards also. I put a piece of crown and lay it on the saw to find the best spring angle, and adjust my crown stops to that. I mark the saw fence where the bottom of the crown is and note that measurement, which is my distance down from the ceiling. I make marks in the corners about 1/8" less than my fence measurement to allow for drywall mud buildup, and snap lines between my marks to give me a guideline.

This is an indispensable tool, especially if you want to cut on the flat:
http://www.dynamitetoolco.com/Bosch-...os-dwm40lk.htm
They recently redesigned it so it will actually read miter angles instead of just the actual angle of the wall, plus it will give you compound readings for cutting crown flat.

KentWhitten

I have a tendency to work so that my copes are on the right hand side of the piece. I'm a gonna try the grinder next time, but I need a smaller one. Mines pretty large to be doing coping. I have the RotoZip attachment, but it is some wimpy for cutting or trimming anything. Bogs down waaaay too much.

I don't lay it flat, I prop it up where it's upside down and backwards.

BTW, don't be afraid to ask to be taught how to do something. I guarantee they will be ecstatic to teach, especially their boss.

__________________
If you correct your mind, the rest of your life will fall into place ~Lao Tzu

Custom Cabinetry - Portland, Cape Elizabeth, Scarborough, Kennebunkport, Yarmouth, Falmouth, Cumberland, Ogunquit, Maine

Salmon Falls Cabinetry

trptman

That's not so goofy..I do that when I'm by myself putting up crown too.

WNYcarpenter

Upside down and backwards....Cope your ends first, then cut to length....leave the corners loose until you fit your cope, then nail it off... Cut your coped piece long, and back cut it enough so you can flex it into place (if your cope isn't perfect, the thin fibers will shape better to the contour andcan be easily trimmed with a knife)....Start with your outside corners and match with a sample 45 and tack the sample.

Avoid douple copes, sometimes they can't be avoided so try to keep your double cope to the smallest piece possible. With a double cope, butt into one wall with your tape and mark an even measurement then butt into the opposite wall and measure to your mark and add the two. This will give you a more accurate measurement, cut it long and flex into place. I measure from the shortest long point of a cope. IMO that is the easiest way to mark and cut a cope.

Upside down and backwards!! (use scrap outside 45's and copes to fit your corners)

To add a little efficiency...when I'm at the saw (with a little down time) and it's set for a cope, I'll cut 2 or three ends and cope them...this takes an extra couple minutes but when I'm ready I just have to cut them to length instead of resetting for every cut!

Chris G

Why don't they make pre-coped crown?

__________________
"Neek...Neek...yoo-a-moronna Neek. Getta-da-fookin-a-jacka-ham!"

http://www.vicporch.ca
Deck Fence Porch Builder Toronto

WNYcarpenter

what fun would that be?

Trim40

They do! You can get them at Lowes and HD. I don't recall the name but they are by far the butt-ugliest things people who can't cope/miter can install.