Crown

osborn

I have a crown question. I have a wall thats "cliipped to a 45 degree angle". So instead of a 90 degree in the corner, it angles over. I guess its technically a 135? Im trying to double cope it. I have a outside corner 45 dying into it from each side. So I tried cutting the cope sides with miter 14.3 and bevel at 17.6. Then cope. It seems to work except the back cut angle on the cope needs to be sharp. I used a rasp to remove a lot behind the cope but it still doesnt fit.

Tom R

You have to back cut it more, more, more . . .

Greg Di

You REALLY have to back cut it. The trick is how you hold/position the crown whilst doing the backcutting.

I use a Collins Coping foot and you need a blade that is nearly double the length of the standard blade for that cope. That's a good indicator of how much MORE you have to back cut.

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Tom R

Here's a little cheater method I don't tell everybody ()

Take your 'opposing' piece (the one you're not coping), - - and mark it where you would just as if you were going to miter both pieces, - - then miter it (with your same settings) about 1/8" over-sized (in length).

That will remove the areas that are causing you to have to so heavily back-cut your coped piece, - - and your fit-and-finish will still come out exactly the same as if you had left the opposing piece uncut . . .

osborn

Thanks Ill continue rasping.

Tom R

Osborn, - - remember, - - when your cutting your cope, - - you also need to hold your coping saw at a 'compound' angle to get the right back-cut.

Try to picture the direction your opposing piece is going to run through your coped piece, - - and hold your saw in that same (compound) direction . . .

WNYcarpenter

I'll break out a Dremel tool from time to time with hardwoods. Might save you some elbow grease!

Mrmac204

we've been using an angle grinder for taking most of the material off when coping - 50 grit, wear safety glasses. you can get really really close with this, then I fine tune it with a small rasp and a file.

Cardiac Paul

Tom R, I like your idea a lot, I'll be trying that one real soon on one of my projects. Thanks
Paul

clampman

I cope everything, unless it's an obtuse angle like the one you are doing. I miter those. 45* crowns can be nearly impossible to cope on a 135* angle when they are fairly easy to do on a 90.

To see where you need to "back cut" more, hold the piece you are coping on the right spring angle (as it goes on the wall), and put your eye at a 135* angle to it and horizontal with the center of the crown.

Any wood that you see behind the leading edge (the profile cut) has to come out of there.