Commercial Steel Door Repair

zipicus

I got a call to fix a binding entry door at an office in a business park. The doors there are the standard 1 lite metal door and frame. Some one tried to break in awhile back and some one repaired it by riveting a piece of metal to the damaged frame at the latch. Even though it's a steel door they say the door binds at the metal repair when the sun hits it.
I have done mostly residential doors in my career, this is my first commercial steel door. I figured I would be able to figure some thing out. By the looks of the built in pivot type hinge apperatuse on the top and bottom of the door, it doesn't look like there's any way to make adjustments to the margins, vertically or laterally.
I'm thinking that the strike side of the jamb needs to be replaced..if thats possible. Is this possible or does the whole frame need to be replaced. HOW IS A STEEL DOOR FRAME HUNG? I've replaced jamb legs to residential entry doors by sawing the leg in half and prying it out, then slipping the new leg in.
I don't want to take it apart if I can't put it back together being as it's a place of business, though I would like to know how to do this.

rock-it man

do you have a hinge bender? I saw a GC on a job with one made from steel pipe. worked great. maybe someone on here can source one out, cause I cant seem to find one.

precisionbuild

Is it a knockdown frame or welded?

orson

zipi,

assuming it is not a welded frame and is what is referred to as a "knock down" frame here is how they are installed:

slide 1 frame leg around the drywall and up against the framing

slide the frame head around the drywall and mate the 2 male tabs on the end into the 2 slots on the leg, do not slide the unmated end up, let it hang down

take the last leg and slide the top end aroudn the drywall keeping the bottom of the leg way out in the door opening, maneuver it up and mate the 2 slots in the top of the leg with the 2 male tabs on the end of the frame head, slide the leg up and into place

plumb whichever frame leg is sitting on the highest part of the floor, fasten at the bottom by screwing through a steel clip wedged in the frame and protruding out to the side(will be covered by baseboard/covebase after installation)

using either a plywood template or a square and tape measure set frame head square and opposite frame leg plumb/ even to other leg

Use a long #3 phillips bit in the holes located up high in the center of each frame leg to clamp the frame against the framed opening by screwing in clockwise

double check your spacing is the same at top and bottom of frame and screw in bracket at bottom of second frame leg

PS- almost forgot, there are threaded holes on the top edge of the frame at each corner, make sure there aren't any screws in there before trying to dissasemble.

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JLTrim

I have gotten quite a bit of movement out of steel doors by shimming the hinges. To increase the strike side reveal you'll want to shim the edge of the hinges nearest the stop so they are sitting at a slight angle, which moves the door closer to the hinge side of the jamb. Of course this only works if the door has room to move in that direction in the first place.

zipicus

I really don't want to tear out the jamb leg cause like I said it's a place of business and I don't want to risk not being able to re assemble it, plus I have no idea what to tell the shop to order if I had to. Though, are steel comercial jambs generally knock down? So are the legs secured with screws and clips? Is it maybe easier than removing a wood jamb? I know, I know, I should have looked at it more, but I figured I could find some info/pictures on how there installed, but no luck yet. I guess I could stick a car jack and a 4x4 between the jamb and hope for an 1/8".

BKFranks

Check out these two websites for info about welded and knock down steel jambs.
http://www.steelcraft.com/
http://www.timelyframes.com/
I couldn't find anything pertaining to install with pictures, but maybe those two site will help you.

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JLTrim

Is there any reveal on the hinge side? If there is you should try this before you go ripping out the jamb. I was recently able to move a steel door over almost 1/8", it wouldn't even shut before and now it works perfectly.

My drawing sucks and it the hinge angle is exaggerated (it would probably bind if it looked like the picture, but you get the idea), but just shim the very edge of the hinges and you might be surprised how much it'll move. They are designed to be adjustable this way, some steel door hinges even come with shims for adjustment.

Attached Thumbnails

 

A W Smith

since it is an exterior door frame (note 'break in" attempt) It is more likely than not a welded frame. Is it a 4 7/8 strike prep?

http://www.republicdoor.com/hardware/hardware-frame.htm

If you are real good with an angle grinder with a wizard wheel you can cut a slot in the face of the jamb and insert a new jamb strike prep. tack weld it back into place with a portable MIG welder. Grind smooth. I am assuming this is in a masonry wall. then your new strike plate goes on top of this to be flush with the frame surface, A cell phone picture of the damaged strike would help.

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Al Smith
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atnas

I would say that it is a welded steel jamb. For me most knock-down steel jambs seem to be used on the interior, but it is not a hard and fast rule.

I'll second the hinge bender. But first, I would check if the hinges appear to be bent. Usually an open end wrench can be used to bend the hinge knuckles. You could also replace the hinges with a product called Select Hinge. This will also allow you to scoot the door over more to get more room at the strike area. Also, the Select Hinge hinge system is very rigid and also is very hard to bend like regular hinges tend to in stressed situations.

Good luck!

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irockwithdirt

Some steel doors have little set screws behind the hinges. U can get some movement there.

Depending on the camber of the hinges, how tight they are at the furthest point from the pin when closed as pictured above, often U can get alot of movement twoard or away from the strike side by rolling the hinges.

I use 1/8" strips of vinyl flooring. Place them twoard the stop to open your margin on the strike side, twoard the pin to close it.

Hope that made sense LOL. Good Luck!

Pearce Services

A locksmith friend of mine uses the Hinge doctor with very good results...

http://www.hawleylocksupply.com/Merc...tegory_Code=HD

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Kevin

www.BadcoDoors.com