Casing On Pre Primed Window Jambs

icfbunt

I have a new construction home that will be trimmed out in a few weeks. I have vinyl windows with pre primed jambs installed. The jambs in some instances are a good 1/8" shy of the face of the drywall. What is the preferred way to handle this type of situation? Hold the casing to the drywall and caulk the gap on the inside of the casing,....or Hold the inside of the casing to the jamb and caulk the outside gap,..or shave the drywall,......? This is only the second time I have used preprimed jambs. The last time I did not like what my carpenter did, so I would appreciate any input from others.

Thks.....Larry

Gordo

Hammer the DW down flush with the jamb. Then nail casing. Any gaps front or back will receive caulk as required. Your 1/8" gap is nothing to sweat about.

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King of Crown

exactly

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Steve Unkie

I agree.

Steve Unkie.

BULLHART

I agree. This problem, on a consistent more sever basis, lead to the pre-installed jamb extension ban of 2006.

icfbunt

I agree,......I thought it would be nice to have the jambs installed at the factory,...next time I'll install them in the field!

skymaster

ICF You can still have factory do it in the future however remember to use a jamb that is at least 1/8 wider than the space you are going into. Install window then just take block plane to the jambs and bring em flush. My normal is the same as the poster above, i just take my hammer and whack the rock down to the jamb way faster just dont do it with the "owner" looking LOL LOL . ONly caution is MAKE SHURE you dont go beyond the trim width!
JackM

AtlanticWBConst

FWIW:

You can also install 1/4" strips on the jams to make the jams sit 1/8" OVER the drywall surface. Face nails the strips with 3/4" Brad nails. Caulk or putty the 'splice' and paint and prime.

Install Casing: nail or staple off your inside edges, then just nail the exterior edges of the casing down (Flat on the wall) to make up for the 1/8" difference. The casing will sit flat and tight. To the naked eye .... all will look fine...

I usually 'float' (don't nail) the mitered corners so they don't separate on the face side.

it's the unside of the casing (casing on jam) that shows up everything...In painted application, caulking can hide the outsides (Casing on wall) ... of the casings.

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Gordo

Thats alot of extra work to make something look like shot.

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AtlanticWBConst

Actually, I am talking about if the areas are really... considerably bad. Example: if the drywall surfaces are not consistent in their widths over the jam sufaces in one window frame area.
Such as fluctuations of 1/16" to 3/8" on painted wood-work... and you are on a tight commercial schedule.

If the surface difference is minimal (sp), then, ...I agree with 'tapping' the sheetrock down with a hammer... to get it right...

I was just offering another 'take' on this...of course... based on circumstances, needs, and time issues....

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Gordo

Cool.

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