Cabinet Paint Of Choice

world llc

it's been about a year or so since we have started offering custom built-in's and the like... i have gotten better at building them and i am starting to incorporate better hardware... actually it's impressive to learn how to, then actually build something that looks like someone else made/ shop built/ store bought. we have only been making paint grade cabinets, still reluctant to go stain grade, and we have been trying a variety of paints from standard waterborne acrylics to acrylic modified 2 part epoxy, to classic oil paint. i'v heard of using automotive paint with a hvlp gun and also of something called "cabinet paint" that's supposed to be just like car paint, so my question is what is your paint of choice?

Gus Dering

I'm not a finish expert. But I'll share a couple of thoughts.
If you are brushing on the paint I say Benjamin Moore Iron Clad oil base with their primer is the best. Never water based.
As far as this "cabinet paint" thing.
You may be talking about a conversion varnish paint. Done right that lays down to a glassy finish and is used by most all the finish shops in my area.
There is also lacquer based paint. It goes on real smooth but is not as near pliable when cured. As a result it seems to chip a bit more than the other two.

I sub out all my finishing so I lack any of the nuts and bolts about how to apply the product but thats what I tell my clients when paint choices are brought up.

plazaman

world, you are correct, car paint is used on some cabinet finishes. I have a custom bath vanity finished with automotive paint, looks just like a car. I had a body shop finish it.

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world llc

is that what i see on the good cabinets i buy? it seems to fill the edges and miters very well and is not too glossy, kinda like a satin sheen.

i guess the application would vary... i have built a few in place and have to brush, but we recently built a few in my garage and sprayed with the 2 part acrylic polymide epoxy stuff which was the most durable stuff i have ever used, but the sheen was high, high, gloss.

Jordy3738

Laquer seems to be what most finishers use in my area. I used to do more painting than now. The problem with the laquer is that i yellows so dag fast.

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Gus Dering

With any finish we end up with , I have a choice of sheens.
Again I'll say I'm not an expert at the finishing. I trust that to the guys who do it everyday.
Try posting the same question in the painting area and see what the brush slingers have to say.

Bob Mariani

Cabinet Paint is used as the improper term for Pre-Catalyized Lacquer. It is not the same as car paint, which is a different version (Post Catalyized Lacquer) Proper hardners and reducers will keep the yellowing to a minumum. This when properly applied with a HLVP gun will yield far better finishes then any type of "Paint" Also a high end Polyurethane from Mapai (Italian import) will even give you are harder finish and no yellowing at all. These products are mixed in-house with hardeners, catalist and reducers and or thinners at time of application. this yeilds a higher strength to the finish. Check out a site like Mokawk-finishes or Hawk labs.

world llc

thank you for the useful info!

Terrorron

Pre-cats are ok, Post-cats are true "cabinet" finishes (as I'm interpreting the OP's definition) In these systems, the undercoater is also post-cat, engineered as compatible with the finish paint. Most of these are amino-alkyd formulations, catylized @ 5-10% and reduced with organically "clean", "ferbo-reducers". My own experience is with two specific product lines, common here in Canada; ML Campbell's Clawlock/Resistant and Becker-Acroma's "Matador" line. I only ever shot the Becker-Acroma product if it was customer specified...I've shot thousands of gallons of ML Campbell, Pre and Post-cat. I would never use a solid color pre-cat on cabinets; it won't take the abuse...period. For clear coat on stained wood, a high quality (water white) pre-cat is fine if eventual yellowing is not going to be an issue. Clear coat over a glazed or painted base? Always a post-cat...and you must strictly conform to the "re-coat windows" in the spec's or you'll have nasty intercoat adhesion issues...

BTW, you don't shoot these products in your garage workshop...
(Well, you can, but it might get pretty ugly, pretty quickly...)

Any one further interested? Ask away...or PM me...

Cheers, Ron