Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Mariani
Cabinet Paint is used as the improper term for Pre-Catalyized Lacquer. It is not the same as car paint, which is a different version (Post Catalyized Lacquer) Proper hardners and reducers will keep the yellowing to a minumum. This when properly applied with a HLVP gun will yield far better finishes then any type of "Paint" Also a high end Polyurethane from Mapai (Italian import) will even give you are harder finish and no yellowing at all. These products are mixed in-house with hardeners, catalist and reducers and or thinners at time of application. this yeilds a higher strength to the finish. Check out a site like Mokawk-finishes or Hawk labs.
|
Pre-cats are ok, Post-cats are true "cabinet" finishes (as I'm interpreting the OP's definition) In these systems, the undercoater is also post-cat, engineered as compatible with the finish paint. Most of these are amino-alkyd formulations, catylized @ 5-10% and reduced with organically "clean", "ferbo-reducers". My own experience is with two specific product lines, common here in Canada; ML Campbell's Clawlock/Resistant and Becker-Acroma's "Matador" line. I only ever shot the Becker-Acroma product if it was customer specified...I've shot
thousands of gallons of ML Campbell, Pre and Post-cat. I would
never use a solid color pre-cat on cabinets; it won't take the abuse...period. For clear coat on stained wood, a high quality (water white) pre-cat is fine if eventual yellowing is not going to be an issue. Clear coat over a glazed or painted base?
Always a post-cat...and you must strictly conform to the "re-coat windows" in the spec's or you'll have
nasty intercoat adhesion issues...
BTW, you don't shoot these products in your garage workshop...

(Well, you can, but it might get pretty ugly, pretty quickly...

)
Any one further interested? Ask away...or PM me...
Cheers, Ron