I thought this technique of beveling an edge with a table saw might be a good topic.
I was in the trades for a long time before this was shown to me. So if it's old hat to you, I apologize, if not I think this will come in handy throughout your career.
What I have done here is bevel an edge at a 45. Easy enough to do just by swinging the blade over to a 45 and set the fence and rip under some circumstances. We all have done that and will again.
I find that this way is easier to handle as the work piece is not trapped between the blade and the fence. Leaving room to apply pressure down and in as you feed without your fingers in that tight slot.
Another situation is when you need bevels on pieces of multiple widths. One set up and you're golden.
Where this technique will really shine for you is when you are putting a beveled edge on both sides of the work piece. If you have a right tilt saw like this one, all your fence is to the right, forcing you to have your first long point down and into the little space below the fence when you make the pass on the second edge. This gets you out of that bind.
You start by sizing your pieces as if they were all square edged. Make them the exact size they need to be to the long point of your bevel.
The jig is nothing more than a sacrificial fence. Start by placing the sacrificial fence on top of a piece of stock that you will be cutting And clamp it to your fence.
Then take the piece of stock out and tap the sac fence down about an 1/8" or less. No need to loosen the clamps, it will go.
Get your blade to the correct angle and set the depth to just over the stock thickness
Bring the fence over and kind of work the blade into the sac fence about an 1/8th or more.
With the fence locked down, take a piece of scrap and test to see where the blade is.
The goal is to cut the bevel without loosing any width.
This picture you can see where I tried a couple times and I kept bumping the fence over with each try.
Once you get it just right the stock shoud pass to the out feed side of the blade without loosing contact with the sac fence. Like this.
The off cut should have room to fall away under the sac fence or you will be headed for a serious game of cowboys and Indians. This is not an arrow you want to tangle with. Thats why we just tapped the sac fence down a little.
When the stock gets to the end the off fall is safely under the sac fence. Easily removed without incident.
And you have it. Note the off fall resting peacefully and a nice crisp edge without loosing any dimension.
I set this up at 45 but you can use it at any angle. It takes a couple minutes to set up after you have done it a few times.
I only wish someone showed me this 30 years ago.
Enjoy
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