Which Is The Best Newel Post Fastener?

dbarnett

I will be starting a job soon where the newels at the top of a stairway can not be bolted though the side into the framing of the landing. I am considering on using either

(1) Fas-n-fast (2" diameter bolted connenction)
(2) Sure-tite (axial through bolt fasterners)
(3) L-bracket style fasteners coverved with molding

Which of these fastener types would be strongest to use for a top of stair newel that is only supported be a railing on one side?

Railman

Sure-Tite, as long as the lag has something to hit. You can run lag in at an off angle, & then bend to square up. It requires a big hole in the newel with a finish plug to fill the hole.
The Fas-n-fast looks like it would work fine, as long as you have something to fasten the screws to in the floor. It's big plus would is it's ease of use, & simple clean finish.

In the end, that's the trick. Every situation & priority requires a different solution. That's why there's no one system fits all solution.

Lately, I've been using 5/8" all thread, threaded into the newel about 4-5 " with good results. Shop testing gave me over 2500 lb per inch of bolt pullout in poplar end grain. Oak is about 50% higher.
Joe

Trim40

I agree w/Railman about the Sure-Tite.
I use 4"J"s for newels that only attach to the flr. they spread the load out a little more.

dbarnett

I shoud add that the subfloor has 2x6 joists with 3/4" advantech sheathing. I would be able to anchor the newel fasteners into one of the joists. The joists are not doubled up. Still think that the sure-tite would be strong enough?

wannaBelkhuntin

The 4 "Js" is the mount I use. Also very easy to level the post with the 4"Js" system, I fasten the J brackets a little shy of being flush with the bottom of the newel post and then snug the screws down into the floor and check for level. Then tighten the direction I need to move the post. I used to use plastic shims to level my post but since I started using the 4"Js" system no more shims and I can install the post in minutes. Tough set up to beat for strength and ease of use.

Ashcon

I do not know of the products you are asking about, but if we can get in before the finished floor goes down we will cut into the subfloor and set the newels into the framing. We use pl premium and 4" torx #14 screws. If we can not sink the post before the finished floor than we will use a hanger bolt threaded into the post and then into the floor. Again liberal amounts of PL and since you are using a molding around the base I would toe screw with the torx drive 4"#14's. The ones I use need a 1/2" hole to clear the head, that plugs up nice with a snug plug. We use them on poplar, maple I have even used them for installing entry doors prior to capping with aluminum. Good luck!

jakejorgenson

If you can cut into the floor at all, you could notch the newel around that joist and glue (construction adhesive) the heck out of it. Set it with screws into the joist to hold it temporarily while the glue sets up. Use shims around the opening you cut in the floor to hold the thing level until the glue sets up. That is the strongest method I've found in situations like this. If it is a box newel, you can also glue a plate to the floor and screw it to the floor, one that sits inside the newel. Then you can glue the newel around that plate. That assumes the subfloor is strong and attached well also. Good luck.

UpNorth

How about this one that Arcways uses?

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Baron

None of the above I always make my newel posts go all the way through into the floor joist.

You can use my stair ways as jungle JIMs.

licensed-trim

I tend to agree with Jake and the others who have stated securing the post to the floor joist, (with a bunch of 3 or 3 an a half inch screws). I used to use plain old constructive adhesive like liquid nails, but that is designed to be flexible. I have found PL constructive adhesive (polyurethane) to be the best. Once this adhesive dries it is not flexible, and the material will break before the glue does.

pappagor

i do the same thing will last longer then i will be around for