Azek Butt Joints Holding Up?

LeonardDB

I live in Rhode Island and am considering Azek for my external trim, especially in areas where the trim will contact the ground or masonry like around the front entrance steps and garage door.

How are your butt joints holding up on Azek installation jobs you have done? Are the joints separating?

Regarding 90 degree butt joints, like where the external garage trim side boards butt with the header or corner boards butt to facia boards. I realize that the other end of the board is free of contact to accommodate expansion and contraction. Do you glue and screw the butt end?

I am also concerned about the criticality of spacing and installation tips for 90 degree butt joints on long spans. Lets say the Azek bottom water table trim / skirt is 20 feet long sandwiched between Azek corner boards on each end. How much space would you leave at each end or would you glue the joints? Do you screw or use finish nails? If you use screws, do you use a counter sink-bit to keep the plastic from mushrooming?

How do cold days or freezing night temperatures impact your joints related to installing Azek? I am guessing that freezing temperatures mean only install Azek in the warm season.

Justtrimmin

We have work w/ Azek for 2or 3yrs now. We have been very happy with it and it is (IMO) the easiest polymer product to work with. We have never had any installlation instruction, however, we have treated it like wood and have had great results.
We use a 7/16" stapler for most jobs (be careful in the cold) stay away from the edges. We use Gorrilla glue on O.S. miters. We have also heated this stuff up to do radius work.
As far as expansion.... The jobs that were installed in the summer have small gaps on the ends and edges (hvy 1/16") in the wintertime. And the jobs that were installed in the wintertime looks great all year round.
Hope this helps.

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Mike Kline
www.trimworkscustomcarpentry.com
"A man can't ride your back unless it's bent"

N.E.Bldg&Rest.LLC

http://www.azek.com/insguide.asp

I never used it but people I know who have love It.

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"Man is a tool-using animal. Without tools he is nothing, with tools he is all."

Thomas Carlyle (1795-1881)

LeonardDB

Do the mitered and glued joints separate? For example, brick mould around garage door trim. I am assuming that I should glue and screw the mitered joints?

Do you glue any of your 90 degree butt joints or just mitered joints?

Justtrimmin

When using the Gorrilla Glue we have not noticed any separation of the brickmould miters. And we have never used bisquits or screws in the long points. No we have never glued end butts or outside corner butts (we do bisquit butt splices). We really haven't changed our habits that we developed with cedar or redwood. It's been 20 to 40 degrees here in NE Ohio lately, If I remember to grab my camera...... I'll post some close ups.

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Mike Kline
www.trimworkscustomcarpentry.com
"A man can't ride your back unless it's bent"

LeonardDB

Thanks for the replies Mike. I am using Azek for the first time and want to know about any installation techniques that are different than using wood.

LeonardDB

When you install Azek in the winter do you leave any gap at board ends or install tight? How about gap at board ends for summer install?

kklick

We have been using azek for about 2 years. I was skeptical at first as always with a new plastic product. I've been highly impressed with the product though. It cuts great and can be routed or shaped very easily.

Azek is a pvc product and they recomend using a pvc glue. The glue actually melts or fuses the product together so the joints usually stay very tight.

Azek recomends allowing 1/8" gap per 18' of product. if you're installing in the summer in the heat the gaps could probably be tighter. In cold temps just leave about 1/16" each end and you should be ok.

dproc

We just switched to Azek and love it. Have not used the glue yet but a buddy of mine uses it all the time and says it's great. Board will break before joint will come apart. We are going to use it for all joints and miters.

troubleseeker

I have used azec occassionaly over the last few years and really like it, although it's flexibility can be aggravating on long runs,We treat it just like wood as far as end gaps go, about a good sixteenth of an inch. Never glued 90 degree butt joints. As for running splices, I like to 45 and glue them, always over solid backing so the seam can be nailed well. Will have to try Gorilla glue, I always use regular plumbing pvc cement. It seems to hold better than the Azec brand cement, although the working time is a lot shorter. No problems with just nailing.

jgmillzy00

I've used pocket screws with no glue and the trim is still holdind together, with no separation after 3 years

BULLHART

I also use pocket screw at the perpindicular butt joints. I scarf cut running joints, and usually fasten using glue and screw. I like to countersink my screws and go back over them with white caulk.

TBFGhost

....someone promoting a product? Azek requires no paint as well...and no special trim pieces and if this Kestrel is all pre finished then I assume it can't be routed or shaped? Pocket screws a FANTASTIC for Azek. I make up sections on the ground and lift into place. Porkchops get pocketed to the rake board and off we go! I use 16 awg finish nails...used to use SS trim screws but found it to be way overkill. Of course I could see in a high wind area (think tornado/hurricane) I would go back to screws.

TBFGhost

na, but an intoduction to who you are would have been nice....before you come and promote your products...if the rules even allow products to be promoted by their companies...

Anderson

I used aztek on a job replacing the 5/4 corner boards on a house I told the home owner how they would never have to paint it etc. The I went to the lumbar yard and the sales guy was telling me make sure and paint it caus it is positively charged and will attract dust. I was like Ok mate thanks.
Anyway I saw after I installed that you can get these little plugs for the screw holes. I used stainless steel screws and caulk for mine.

Tom Struble

so after the 15 yrs what happens?you paint it?

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Tom

Tom Struble

have any pics of that stuff? i heard its very plastic looking and dosn't have the look of real wood like azeck has

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Tom

nEighter

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Olathe house Painting and Remodeling Overland Park Interior House Painting Leawood Exterior House Painting Shawnee Wood Rot Repair Lenexa Drywall Repair

loneframer

I glue every connection, whether it gets painted or not. All PVC trimboards are subject to thermal expansion and contraction. Over short runs, the joints will stay intact. I have seen a few issues with longer runs. We have a fascia run on the current project that is 90' long and painted a clay color on the South elevation. The joint closest to the center of the run has failed pretty badly. It broke near the miter, but the adhesive held. I think the paint is more of a problem than anything. Temperature during installation plays a key roll also, as well as exposure to the suns heat. Overcast days in the 60s 0r 70s are prime time to install in my opinion. The solvents in PVC cement take some time to evaporate completely and a joint made in direct sun could pull apart as the piece cools after sundown.

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TBFGhost

....ah, no. You talk about it like every piece of Azek will go "black with mildue" if its not painted.... and then follow up with PVC Ue.

I have seen Azek that has been up for 5 years unpainted on four sides of a structure, the west and east sides where tucked up tight to rows of pine trees....none of it had mildue....maybe the homeowner kept it clean, maybe they didn't. i never asked.

No offense, but Kestrel PVC Ue....

Looks like some homeowner job, remindes me of corner blocks for those who can't miter....that or I feel like I am looking at a lego home or something...

Now Azek....


Not to mention that great amount of things contractors on this very board have done with it. PVC Ue is no where near the same class of product as Azek....