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#1 |
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Pro
Trade: Building and remodeling
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: MI
Posts: 634
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Attaching Face Frames
When I build a cabinet I always rabbet both of the cabinet sides so a 1/4" wide by 1/4" deep tongue remains. I then put a 1/4" dado in the stile of the face frame that will slide over the tonque. I love this method because it always gives me perfect cabinet sides and I think it's very strong. Here (however) is where I run into problems-
Like I said, the rabbet and dado works great for me to join the face frame stiles to the cabinet sides, but to join the face frame rails to the top and bottom of the cabinet, I use biscuits. The problem I tend to run into w/ this is that I also dado all the ply joints on the entire cabinet and if the dado depths aren't PERFECT, it plays out heavily where the top and bottom of the cabinet meet the rails of the face frame. What I mean is that the top or bottom board will sometimes end up either a teeny bit proud of the side of the cabinet or a teeny bit shy of the front of the cabinet side. My question is, how are you guys attaching your face frames? I don't kreg screw them because I still have the deal w/ the exposed sides of the cabinets one way or another so I just do them all that way. Thanks for any input |
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#2 |
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Maker of fine kindling
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Re: Attaching Face Frames
This is going to send you into a tiz. But I want to help you with the question you asked.
You are wasting a ton of time doing things that just don't need doing. All that is really needed to fasten the frame to the cabinet is glue. Clamp it on, no friggin nails. You can pocket screw some areas on if you want but think of more as saving clamps than a necessary mechanical fastener. Seriously, square edge plywood to frame with glue. Easy way is hard enough and in this case plenty good enough. If this gets the hair all up on the back of your neck, take the time to test it. Clamp a frame on with original Titebond, let it set up for an hour or so and try to destroy it. Let me know how it goes. This change in your system will not reduce your quality, it will only help speed things up. If there is a little discrepancy in your box size let the difference show up at the top. It only looks bad going to the job. The finished product will not suffer. I understand the frustration though.
__________________
Every parent who has walked barefoot into their child's room late at night hates Legos |
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#3 |
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Pro
Trade: General Contractor
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Boston/Marthas Vineyard
Posts: 303
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Re: Attaching Face Frames
I use a combo of pocket screws and biscuits/glue. Works well. Obviously pocket screws can be an issue in exposed areas. Matters the finish.
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#4 |
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Pro
Trade: hardwood floor contractor & so much more
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Missouri
Posts: 1,278
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Re: Attaching Face Frames
I dado in the sides into the face frame, glue & pin nail & pocket screw everything non visible.
Last edited by pinwheel; 03-16-2010 at 07:26 AM. |
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#5 |
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Pro
Trade: Remodeling
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northeast, Pa
Posts: 1,908
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Re: Attaching Face Frames
I dado the entire face.
Once the blade is set for depth, why wouldn't everything be perfect?
__________________
'The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant; it's just that they know so much that isn't so.' - Ronald Reagan |
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#6 | |
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Pro
Trade: Building and remodeling
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: MI
Posts: 634
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Re: Attaching Face FramesQuote:
Thank God I managed to get it all together and the ho loves their kithcen but could have spared myself the heart burn!! Gus, I like your way because no matter what you can always sand the face of the box so then it's perfect. I'll give it a shot. Thanks! |
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