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11-05-2009, 07:27 PM
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#1
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Maker of fine kindleing
Trade:
cabinet maker
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Santa Rosa CA
Posts: 2,186
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Accurate miter tip
This is an easy trick for a fast and accurate miter.
In this first pic you can see that I scribed the piece for length and moved the mark up on top of the stick.
That plywood ripping is slightly wider than my work piece and will use that in the next pic
Now I cut partially through the plywood and don't let the thing move afterward.
There is my saw kerf to line up my mark with. Just don't spaz out and move the ripping while you line up the work piece.
Then just cut it. Works fast and easy. And if your eye ain't what it used to be, it's a whole lot more accurate. Enjoy.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by WarnerConstInc.
Gus is right. 
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Gus Dering For This Useful Post:
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11-05-2009, 07:31 PM
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#2
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Pro
Trade:
Sure, what you got?
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Auburn Indiana
Posts: 3,886
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That Omga doesn't have lasers???
My cheap kapex has dual ones. (never liked lasers untill now)
Good tip Gus, sometimes those little things slip right past people.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gus Dering
It may be just a gateway tool to the hard stuff. Be careful 
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11-05-2009, 07:44 PM
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#3
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Illusion of Perfection
Trade:
Residential Remodeler/Custom Carpenter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Wayne, PA
Posts: 677
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gus Dering
Just don't spaz out...
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That is one handy piece of advice no matter the project or circumstance.
__________________
Mark
Wayne, PA
"It is what it is."
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11-05-2009, 07:46 PM
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#4
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Framer
Trade:
framing/remodeling
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarnerConstInc.
That Omga doesn't have lasers???
My cheap kapex has dual ones. (never liked lasers untill now)
Good tip Gus, sometimes those little things slip right past people.
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I will buy a saw with a laser when the laser actually cuts the wood.
__________________
"Stop wasting lumber. It doesn't grow on trees ya know! Oh wait, it does."
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11-05-2009, 07:48 PM
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#5
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Pro
Trade:
Sure, what you got?
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Auburn Indiana
Posts: 3,886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren
I will buy a saw with a laser when the laser actually cuts the wood.
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I am officially over sneaking up on a cut now.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gus Dering
It may be just a gateway tool to the hard stuff. Be careful 
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11-05-2009, 08:10 PM
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#6
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Pro
Trade:
Finish Carpenter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 228
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Damn that's slick! Thanks Gus!
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11-05-2009, 08:34 PM
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#7
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Maker of fine kindleing
Trade:
cabinet maker
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Santa Rosa CA
Posts: 2,186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarnerConstInc.
That Omga doesn't have lasers???
My cheap kapex has dual ones. (never liked lasers untill now)
Good tip Gus, sometimes those little things slip right past people.
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Next thing ya know you are gunna want a robot to cut stuff for ya.
Who do you think you are George Jetson?
Where the heck is my jetpack anyway? Thought we would have those by now
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by WarnerConstInc.
Gus is right. 
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11-05-2009, 09:57 PM
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#8
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Pro
Trade:
Repair/Remodel
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Seattle, Wa
Posts: 542
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I don't get it
I never have a problem cutting miters though. I find they just take some planning, you go about it differently depending on what you're building.
O.k I get it now, it's so you can see where the blade is going to cut. I use my speed square, but I guess that works.
Last edited by KennMacMoragh; 11-05-2009 at 10:05 PM.
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11-05-2009, 09:57 PM
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#9
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Pro
Trade:
Sure, what you got?
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Auburn Indiana
Posts: 3,886
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__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gus Dering
It may be just a gateway tool to the hard stuff. Be careful 
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11-06-2009, 06:18 PM
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#10
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Maker of fine kindleing
Trade:
cabinet maker
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Santa Rosa CA
Posts: 2,186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarnerConstInc.
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Yes, Warner, the proverbial "Hard Stuff"
You can paint yours green if you want.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by WarnerConstInc.
Gus is right. 
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11-06-2009, 06:38 PM
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#11
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Pro
Trade:
trim carpenter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: SE MN
Posts: 1,083
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Hey Gus,
The method you show is similar to how I use my "auxiliary fence and table set up". You did a nice job of showing how to get very accurate miters. It also has the benefit of being zero clearance, so no "exit wounds." Clean cutting.
Many trim carps use fairly sloppy reveals (3/16" +or- 1/16", so they never dial in the accuracy. Your method does help bring the accuracy of trim carpenters into the tighter tolerances of the cabinet makers... which is where they should be.
Cheers,
Bass
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11-06-2009, 06:38 PM
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#12
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Pro
Trade:
Sure, what you got?
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Auburn Indiana
Posts: 3,886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gus Dering
Yes, Warner, the proverbial "Hard Stuff"
You can paint yours green if you want. 
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I would end up making a bunch of 'Chrome Naked Lady's' out of Azek if I had a CNC!!
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gus Dering
It may be just a gateway tool to the hard stuff. Be careful 
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11-06-2009, 07:34 PM
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#13
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Carpenter
Trade:
custom homebuilding/remodeling/restoration
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Jamestown NY
Posts: 906
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Thanks gus  ....
I switch between a chop box and a slide on site. I prefer the chop box (smaller, lighter), but it's hard to line up the tooth/mark like I do with the slide....
__________________
"I knew I lost my wallet as soon as I threw my pants over the fence". -'lil jarhead bro when asking for a wire transfer...
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11-06-2009, 07:42 PM
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#14
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Maker of fine kindleing
Trade:
cabinet maker
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Santa Rosa CA
Posts: 2,186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basswood
Hey Gus,
The method you show is similar to how I use my "auxiliary fence and table set up". You did a nice job of showing how to get very accurate miters. It also has the benefit of being zero clearance, so no "exit wounds." Clean cutting.
Many trim carps use fairly sloppy reveals (3/16" +or- 1/16", so they never dial in the accuracy. Your method does help bring the accuracy of trim carpenters into the tighter tolerances of the cabinet makers... which is where they should be.
Thanks Bass,
I was mitering nosing pieces for the counter top in that cnc video. I have been doing things this way for a long time and it dawned on me that there would be some guys that would benefit from this simple technique. The back up on the cut is a good thing too.
No big deal but it sure does help when your eyes are shot and you can't afford one of those fancy ass green saws with the laser guided blade.
Cheers,
Bass
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarnerConstInc.
I would end up making a bunch of 'Chrome Naked Lady's' out of Azek if I had a CNC!! 
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Nice 
Send me the dxf and I'll cut your prototype.
If that is out of your reach then just pose like those chicks on the mud flaps and have your wife snap the shot. I'll take it from there.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by WarnerConstInc.
Gus is right. 
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11-06-2009, 09:07 PM
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#15
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The Duke
Trade:
Framing, Custom Carpentry, Architectural Design
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,778
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I started doing that about 3 years ago. I just thought it up and assumed the good finish carpenters did this. Puts the cut mark right on the money, super accurate.
__________________
If one advances confidently in the direction of one's dreams,
and endeavors to live the life which one has imagined,
one will meet with a success unexpected in common hours
~Henry David Thoreau
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11-07-2009, 05:25 AM
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#16
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Pro
Trade:
Remodeling
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northeast, Pa
Posts: 938
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basswood
Hey Gus,
The method you show is similar to how I use my "auxiliary fence and table set up". You did a nice job of showing how to get very accurate miters. It also has the benefit of being zero clearance, so no "exit wounds." Clean cutting.
Many trim carps use fairly sloppy reveals (3/16" +or- 1/16", so they never dial in the accuracy. Your method does help bring the accuracy of trim carpenters into the tighter tolerances of the cabinet makers... which is where they should be.
Cheers,
Bass
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I use the 16th all the time. My eyes can't take all those little lines anymore  As long as I'm doing my own cutting which is 99.9% of the time it doesn't create a problem. I'm a pretty good judge of where the 32ths are supposed to be
Only problem that I'm having is 12" blade has too much deflection on the angle cuts unless I use a heavy blade...thinking about dropping to a 10" for the finer work.
__________________
'The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant; it's just that they know so much that isn't so.' - Ronald Reagan
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11-15-2009, 11:17 AM
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#17
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Registered User
Trade:
Interior Trim Contractor
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Arvada, Colorado
Posts: 1
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I do the same thing but put a couple drops of 2P10 with accelerator to the rip to hold it in place on the fence. Works great if you're cutting mass miters of small molding for raised panels etc. on a 12" saw with a wide fence gap. No more chips flying at you. When you're done, tap the scrap rip with a hammer and it comes off with minimal residue.
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The Following User Says Thank You to mitreman For This Useful Post:
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11-15-2009, 10:41 PM
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#18
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Moderator
Trade:
GC - Remodeling Specialists
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 4,467
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Old eyes? I had to put on my glasses to see the pictures. What are these old eyes you're talking about?
__________________
"My clients’ wishes are the center of my attention." -- David Guido, a contractor in Woodstock, N.Y.
New York Times, July 20, 2006
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11-15-2009, 10:57 PM
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#19
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LRG WoodCrafting
Trade:
Professional Sawdust Producer
Join Date: May 2005
Location: USA, Connecticut
Posts: 3,886
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Been doing it for over a decade. Still a great idea.
__________________
Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HusqyPro
Carpenter by day.
Mad scientist by night.
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http://lrgwood.com
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