We're doing our 1st SIP construction starting Monday....
I've had a decent amount of time to look over the schematics, and I think I have a handle on the construction/layout....
We're drilling holes for wiring chases in splice studs and plates, cutting pannels to use in various corners etc.... The local rep is coming Monday to get us rolling...
Frankly, This is what we're doing, we have the walls, instructions, but no experience.....seems easy enough, so what's the catch??
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"I knew I lost my wallet as soon as I threw my pants over the fence". -'lil jarhead bro when asking for a wire transfer...
Last edited by WNYcarpenter; 11-06-2009 at 09:04 PM.
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Just did our first SIP room addition a couple weeks ago. We used t&g panels with a spline. Our major obstacle was the weight of the panels and getting the tongue & groove to line up. Mostly manhandled the panels as they were being attached to an existing house, not much room for equipment although we did use a telehandler for the roof panels. Still heavy to get them into place.
Do your specs call for sealant on the groove? Tape the seams? Are you setting the wall on concrete or a SIP floor?
Do your specs call for sealant on the groove? Tape the seams? Are you setting the wall on concrete or a SIP floor?
We are using foam sealant everywhere, taping interior panel joints, and we are doing walls ONLY...conventional wood floor system and radiused 2x rafters.
I can see the roof panels being a pain, but four of us moved an 8'x13' wall section like nothing.
I just got the updated 'Cross Section' drawing, and wall schedule...apparently, we're using 8" panel screws to attatch a ledger to our 2nd floor walls that are accepting (shed roof type) rafters.
Also MODS, or anyone, can I revise the title of that thread? or, should I start a new thread and re-post the pictures in the 'carpentry picture thread'? I know everyone likes pictures, so I would appreciate any suggestions....
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"I knew I lost my wallet as soon as I threw my pants over the fence". -'lil jarhead bro when asking for a wire transfer...
Trade:
building for 30 years. new homes , additions , lite dirt work ,
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 374
Wow , an addition kit ? Whats the advantage over stick framing a 20x20 room addition .
Is the framing material less money ? less time ? It looks like you still have to finish the windows ,siding, roof ,dry wall , break Thru opening etc. Looks very cool but seams like a lot of planing for one room .
The framing is the fun part of the job . John
Wow , an addition kit ? Whats the advantage over stick framing a 20x20 room addition .
Is the framing material less money ? less time ? It looks like you still have to finish the windows ,siding, roof ,dry wall , break Thru opening etc. Looks very cool but seams like a lot of planing for one room .
The framing is the fun part of the job . John
I'm with you....I'll know soon enough, but, seems to me the main benefit is the thermal envelope/break.....
From the field, with the winters we get here, I'm stoked that as soon as the walls are up, and we get dried in it will be warm inside! No waiting the month or two for the mechanicals before insulation!!!!!
__________________
"I knew I lost my wallet as soon as I threw my pants over the fence". -'lil jarhead bro when asking for a wire transfer...
I can see the electrical rough in being a PITA for everyone!
I know the designer will spot recepticals and sconces no where near the electrical chases.....I don't know....yet
Yep, electrical will we a PITA for someone. This is our first SIP wall job and we ran the wire as we went. Saved the electrician a lot of hassle but probably added at least half a day to our install.
We've built tons of rooms with SIP floors over the years, and quite a few roof systems.
The advantages include 6" thick R-22 walls, 8" thick R-38 roof with an "automatic" cathedral ceiling. The roof panels are heavy, but once they are set so is the sheathing and insulation. Saves a lot of time.
Cost wise, I think I can sell a SIP room addition for about 20% less than a conventionally built room addition. The verdict is still out though as we analyze the pros and cons of each room after completion.
Besides terrific energy savings, another "green" aspect is the lack of leftovers. It's hard to find a piece big enough for samples.
If you have the right supplier, SIP construction can be a good way to go.
The Following User Says Thank You to Bill Z For This Useful Post:
Trade:
building for 30 years. new homes , additions , lite dirt work ,
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 374
How much time can you possibly save on a frame ?
We built a 20x20 addition on Friday floor 2x10 wall 2x6 rafters 2x10 collar ties 2x6 3/4 ply on the floor 1/2 ply on the roof OSB for the walls . Monday we have collar ties to finish , gable end studs, facials . windows ? 3 men 2 days tops . Insulation costs about 900 buck here installed . Id rather give up the block work then the framing I hit two leach tanks and a old septic on 2 20' walls . We removed 3 more tanks and replace the septic on the other side of the house . roofing and siding and 2 covered decks and im out a there . My HO is trying to finish it up. He keeps adding thing for us to do . John
A few more....so far, assembly has been straight forward...GLUE EVERYTHING....
We are marking out all the wire chases on the plywood and we're screwing all the outside corners with the 8" screws....My biggest complaint so far is that the panels are only made to the foot....IT IS NOT a panelized system!!! an 8'6" wall comes 9'. I already made a mistake doing pre-assembly on a 9' wall the should have been 8'11"...
__________________
"I knew I lost my wallet as soon as I threw my pants over the fence". -'lil jarhead bro when asking for a wire transfer...
We removed 3 more tanks and replace the septic on the other side of the house . roofing and siding and 2 covered decks and im out a there . My HO is trying to finish it up. 
He keeps adding thing for us to do .
John
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