 |
12-12-2008, 10:14 AM
|
#1
|
|
New Guy
Trade:
My contracting business for your million dollars
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: newtown, Ct.
Posts: 29
|
remove glued and screwed sub floor
I'm putting an estimate together for a renovation and I guess I'm over thinking it, but I have to remove about 700 sq ft of tile in a kitchen and replace with 3/4" Brazilian cherry. The existing tile is 3/4" higher than the strip oak floors in surrounding rooms. I am guessing the tile was installed on some kind of 1/2"material on top of old floor and around here I would also expect it to be plywood glued and screwed. I have no idea, but that would be worst case scenario. I know there is no easy way to remove this, but anyone have any good methods they use besides dynamite.
|
|
|
Warning: The topics covered on this site include activities in which there exists the potential for serious injury
or death. ContractorTalk.com DOES NOT guarantee the accuracy or completeness of any information contained on this site. Always use proper safety precaution and reference reliable outside sources before attempting any construction or remodeling task!
Join the #1 Contractor Forum Today - It's Totally Free!
ContractorTalk.com - Are you a Professional Contractor? If so we invite you to join our community and see what it has to offer. Our site is specifically designed for you and it's the leading place for contractors to meet online. No homeowners asking DIY questions. Just fellow tradesmen who enjoy talking about their business, their trade, and anything else that comes up. No matter what your trade is you'll find that ContractorTalk.com is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally free!
Join ContractorTalk.com - Click Here
|
|
12-12-2008, 10:47 AM
|
#2
|
|
Sean
Trade:
General Contractor
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Cullman, AL
Posts: 3,814
|
Det Cord works for me
If the tile was installed properly there should be sub floor / thin set / 1/2" cement backer board (or similar) screwed or nailed / thin set / tiles
Sledgehammer, pry bars, flat shovels, demo bars, & lots of patience is what is required
|
|
|
|
12-12-2008, 11:23 AM
|
#3
|
|
Pro
Trade:
Painting
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Florence, Alabama
Posts: 2,286
|
Air chisel might be handy witht hat.
|
|
|
|
|
12-12-2008, 09:44 PM
|
#4
|
|
Dapper Crapper
Trade:
I am not your bank!!
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: The Dog House....NE, In.
Posts: 5,092
|
Amigos!!!
|
|
|
|
|
12-13-2008, 01:20 AM
|
#5
|
|
Member
Trade:
General B Contractor C-5 Framing Contractor
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Ca
Posts: 79
|
rip 2' sections and have two guys work it with pry bars it goes faster then you would think. one guy breaks it but 2 you can pry it pretty well
|
|
|
|
|
12-13-2008, 02:08 AM
|
#6
|
|
Pro
Trade:
Painting/Framing/Drywall/Tile
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: KC
Posts: 1,758
|
what 3 guys 2 days? for demo?
|
|
|
|
|
12-13-2008, 09:48 AM
|
#7
|
|
Sean
Trade:
General Contractor
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Cullman, AL
Posts: 3,814
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by nEighter
what 3 guys 2 days? for demo?
|
Depends on conditions - around here I could probably get er done in a day with a helper - 2 helpers only doing the work would probably take 2 days
The one I think Warner or someone else ran into recently - was about three or days with 4 people
|
|
|
|
|
12-13-2008, 10:00 AM
|
#8
|
|
Pro
Trade:
Home Improvement General Contractor
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,043
|
Is the H O defidently having the work done? If so ask to remove a small area of tile as a sample. Then you will have a better idea as to what you are up against.
We had a similar job a few months ago (much smaller at about 150 sq. feet), What we found was a poured base with a metal lath nailed down. It only took a couple of hours. If it was plywood or another substrate glued and screwed it would have taken alot longer.
|
|
|
|
|
12-13-2008, 03:45 PM
|
#9
|
|
Member
Trade:
environmental
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 45
|
I use 5 foot scaraper bars with a 7 inch blade. The bar is solid steel with a T handle and weighs about 20 pounds. This gives a lot of momentum and it goes through most nails. I grind the blade at lunch with a hand grinder to take the nicks outs and get the glue off. Turn up the radio and your ready to go. 
|
|
|
|
|
12-13-2008, 04:04 PM
|
#10
|
|
Dapper Crapper
Trade:
I am not your bank!!
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: The Dog House....NE, In.
Posts: 5,092
|
The one I tore up wasn't glued, at least the 3/8" ply wasn't glued to the wood floors. It did however have 2 layers of carpet, one glued down, then old linoleum glued to the ply. THen there were rink shanks on about 5" centers. It took like 2 days with 2 or 3 people on it.
I actually destroyed 2 shingle eaters doing it. Sore hands and butt load of nails.
|
|
|
|
|
12-13-2008, 04:18 PM
|
#11
|
|
Pro
Trade:
Remodeler/Finish Carpenter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Millersville, PA
Posts: 1,293
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by SLSTech
Det Cord works for me
If the tile was installed properly there should be sub floor / thin set / 1/2" cement backer board (or similar) screwed or nailed / thin set / tiles
Sledgehammer, pry bars, flat shovels, demo bars, & lots of patience is what is required
|
Not to get off point but what makes it proper to use tile backer meant for the wall for the floor instead?
|
|
|
|
|
12-13-2008, 07:22 PM
|
#12
|
|
Sean
Trade:
General Contractor
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Cullman, AL
Posts: 3,814
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by orson
Not to get off point but what makes it proper to use tile backer meant for the wall for the floor instead?
|
Oops me bad - your right 1/4" backer normally not 1/2"
Guess I needed that 2nd cup of coffee this morning
|
|
|
|
|
12-13-2008, 11:27 PM
|
#13
|
|
The Remodeler
Trade:
Home Remodeler
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 541
|
A little off-topic, but just an FYI... There is nothing wrong with using 1/2" backerboard on floors... I've done it when the added height was needed to match existing floors in other rooms. 
__________________
- Alex 
|
|
|
|
|
12-18-2008, 11:10 PM
|
#14
|
|
New Guy
Trade:
Contractor
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 23
|
I use a maddox. It's like a pick axe with a flat bar in the front rather than a pick point. I swing it under the backer board (I'm very good shot) like a pick axe and then lift and pry.
Be careful near walls and cabs. Don't miss.
|
|
|
|
|
12-19-2008, 01:19 AM
|
#15
|
|
Licensed Contractor
Trade:
Electrician
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Rahway, New Jersey
Posts: 3,669
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by WarnerConstInc.
Amigos!!!
|
|
|
|
|
| Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
|
| Display Modes |
Rate This Thread |
 Linear Mode
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
|
