Remove Glued And Screwed Sub Floor

codaman

I'm putting an estimate together for a renovation and I guess I'm over thinking it, but I have to remove about 700 sq ft of tile in a kitchen and replace with 3/4" Brazilian cherry. The existing tile is 3/4" higher than the strip oak floors in surrounding rooms. I am guessing the tile was installed on some kind of 1/2"material on top of old floor and around here I would also expect it to be plywood glued and screwed. I have no idea, but that would be worst case scenario. I know there is no easy way to remove this, but anyone have any good methods they use besides dynamite.

SLSTech

Det Cord works for me

If the tile was installed properly there should be sub floor / thin set / 1/2" cement backer board (or similar) screwed or nailed / thin set / tiles

Sledgehammer, pry bars, flat shovels, demo bars, & lots of patience is what is required

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boman47k

Air chisel might be handy witht hat.

WarnerConstInc.

Amigos!!!

thegreek

rip 2' sections and have two guys work it with pry bars it goes faster then you would think. one guy breaks it but 2 you can pry it pretty well

nEighter

what 3 guys 2 days? for demo?

SLSTech

Depends on conditions - around here I could probably get er done in a day with a helper - 2 helpers only doing the work would probably take 2 days

The one I think Warner or someone else ran into recently - was about three or days with 4 people

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Mellison

Is the H O defidently having the work done? If so ask to remove a small area of tile as a sample. Then you will have a better idea as to what you are up against.
We had a similar job a few months ago (much smaller at about 150 sq. feet), What we found was a poured base with a metal lath nailed down. It only took a couple of hours. If it was plywood or another substrate glued and screwed it would have taken alot longer.

Rockwood

I use 5 foot scaraper bars with a 7 inch blade. The bar is solid steel with a T handle and weighs about 20 pounds. This gives a lot of momentum and it goes through most nails. I grind the blade at lunch with a hand grinder to take the nicks outs and get the glue off. Turn up the radio and your ready to go.

WarnerConstInc.

The one I tore up wasn't glued, at least the 3/8" ply wasn't glued to the wood floors. It did however have 2 layers of carpet, one glued down, then old linoleum glued to the ply. THen there were rink shanks on about 5" centers. It took like 2 days with 2 or 3 people on it.
I actually destroyed 2 shingle eaters doing it. Sore hands and butt load of nails.

orson

Not to get off point but what makes it proper to use tile backer meant for the wall for the floor instead?

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SLSTech

Oops me bad - your right 1/4" backer normally not 1/2"
Guess I needed that 2nd cup of coffee this morning

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Alabama Full Service Remodeling, Renovation, and Preservation by SLS Construction
Certified Energy Efficiency Audits, Ratings, Modeling, Verifications, & Consulting
Residential, Commercial, & Industrial Infrared Thermography Scans

Splinter

A little off-topic, but just an FYI... There is nothing wrong with using 1/2" backerboard on floors... I've done it when the added height was needed to match existing floors in other rooms.

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- Alex

Long Island Remodeling Contractor

deep sliver

I use a maddox. It's like a pick axe with a flat bar in the front rather than a pick point. I swing it under the backer board (I'm very good shot) like a pick axe and then lift and pry.

Be careful near walls and cabs. Don't miss.

Magnettica