Demo Of Doorfacing/Trim For Prep! Any Tricks?

UNDER-R8ED

Does anyone have any advice for pulling off all doorfacings/trim for installation of new sheetrock over paneling?

A way to use the least amount of time and organized enough to replace it when finished?

Thanks,
Houston

Cole

If you are going to re-use it, nothing beats a hammer and a pry bar.

The key is to work slowly so you don't break any of the mouldings etc...

Have you thought about removing the paneling and then installing your drywall?

Oh and organizing it is a whole different story, you will need to set up some sort of coding per each door and moulding and label each on the backside with a permanent marker etc...

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UNDER-R8ED

We have considered it, but the man who owns the house bought it cheap, wants to fix it nice enough and quick to flip it ASAP. Its in a rough part of town that can sell for large amounts more with just the basic work.

Is hanging on-top going to cause a problem with floating or anything else?

Cole

Personally, I would like to see it removed, but if you check that the walls are fairly level, you shouldn't have a problem.

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UNDER-R8ED

Cole, just thought you would appreciate this... all of that stuff i did have posted I came out to a bid around $8000 not including replacing of cabinets, facings, and baseboards... Guy is trying to tell me he has bids from 1680 to 2700 on all of the work including the demo/replacing of what i listed... THATS 2300 sq.ft of hanging/float/text/painting, gloss on the trim, refinishing of 650 sqft and installation of 715 sqft of wood flooring!!!

Is he serious? I should still pursure the low-end of my bid correct? Although its SUPPOSEDLY 6K more than what he has!?

Houston

Cole

He has f**king lost his mind!

I can tell you right now he has no other bids in for that low. He is trying to play the typical house flip game.

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UNDER-R8ED

So i should come at him with what? I dont wanna take anything less 6500 @ the LEAST! and thats pushin it! I mean its at least 3 wks of work with 2 of us... there is just no way. My high end was around 9700 and low @ 7700. What should i come at him with? IT IS A LOT OF WORK!

Dustball

Don't submit anything that would cause you to lose money. Getting no job is better than getting a job that ties up 3 weeks and you lose money on top of it.

send_it_all

Walk away from that prick...there is no money to be made there. He will nickle and dime you all day...he will waste a lot of your time just asking you to lower your price...he will try to get all kinds of free extras...and at the end he will probably ask you to wait until the house sells so he can pay you...you should chin-check him just for countering with that B.S. price he says he got..

Michaeljp86

Ive worked with alot of these fools and want to get away from them. As soon as they pull the "I got somone who will do it for $2000 less" I just say have them do it and walk away. And get 2/3 of the money up front because these are the kinds of people who wont pay you when its over.

tinner666

If he doesn't already know that your high end was $9,700.00, you submit a bid of at least $12,650.

Make sure you charge for all the extras you'll run into too. If you get the job, you'll realize $12,650 is low.

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Frank Slate Roof Repairs, Richmond, Va.

Bob Kovacs

He'll find some crackhead to do it for $10/hour cash, it'll look like ****, he'll slap a coat of paint on it and flip the house to some unsuspecting buyer. That's the mode of operation of 95% of flippers.

If you're serious about making money in the construction business, stay as far away from those morons as you can.

Bob

kevjob

dont get into arguing with these a##holes, if he wants to use the crack head then let him otherwise tell him to shut up. Fix and flippers are notorious for hiring under skilled and underpayed "professionals". my bid would have been at least double.

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Kevin
Basement Finishing Highlands Ranch Colorado
Littleton Colorado, Basement Remodeling
Kitchen Remodeling Denver

copusbuilder

If you need that kind of work you may as well go get a job at Home Depot.....at least you get a little more respect

You get into that crap and you will have nothing but problems. When they think they have the upper hand and you are compliant then all shyte will break loose.

Run don't walk....away

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Michaeljp86

Listen to these guys, they are right because Ive been there and I finaly realized what the problem was and Im not doing it again. Its a waist of time and money on your end and it will raise your stress and blood pressure like what happened to me.

plazaman

I agree about these guys nickel & dime everything, but it all depends who you deal with. There is money to be made if you find the right person to pay it.

Ive been fortunate enough to work for a flipper and acutally make decent cash. We've comepleted hundreds of thousands of dollars of work in the past few years.

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neolitic

[QUOTE=UNDER-R8ED;300765]Does anyone have any advice for pulling off all doorfacings/trim for installation of new sheetrock over paneling?

You DO realize that you'll need ½" jamb extensions on BOTH sides of all the doors and around all of the windows? This usually seems to be where wise guys get tripped up with this slick trick. Real PITA. Last time (and I do mean last time) I had one of these guys we got some "wall liner" from Sherwin-Williams, covered the paneling and painted. Waaay faster, easier,neater, and cheaper. But I'm jus' a dumb ol' carpenter.

TimelessQuality

Yeah jambs..and electrical boxes will need to be moved out or spaced...lotsa time... I did one this summer. Pulled the trim and panelling, rocked, went back...PITA!

I did get lucky on the exterior walls, the panelling was spaced out from the studs, so 1/2" rock fit perfect.

I have to check into 'wall liner'

neolitic

It's a legit thing, call and ask 'em. It's a heavy duty spun fabric deal you paste up like wall paper. Bridges the grooves and give a flat paintable surface. Have used it before to cover cracked plaster, slick as a snails trail.