Cutting 1/4 Inch Steel Backsplash

Fakiza

I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on how i can cut smooth even edges on stainless steel backsplashes. I bought them from Ikea and they are about 1/4 inch thick. I also have to cut outlet holes in the steel. What tool should i use and what is the simplest way ?? I cant afford to buy a new power tool. I was thinking about using a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade, but i am sure i cant cut a straight line. Please Help... any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Teetorbilt

Any other tools in your arsenal? Like a 4" offset grinder with cutoff wheels?

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Fakiza

my tool shack is Homedepot, so just name the tool and bit that i need, and can rent it

Dustball

Since I already have a plasma cutter, that's what I'd use. I'd first make a template guide out of wood for the holes I need cut then use the plasma. Makes nice clean cuts when a guide/straightedge is used.

Before I got my plasma cutter, I used cut-off discs in 4.5" and 7" grinders.

reveivl

You'll want to practice some with a plasma cutter first, don't just start burning holes in your finish pieces!

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Teetorbilt

Dustball, plasma is nice but how many are likely to have them? Waterjet is better, doesn't harden the cut edge.

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Bob Kovacs

I find it hard to believe that IKEA (or anyone, for that matter) would be selling stainless steel in a 1/4" thickness- especially for a backsplash. I'm thinking this stuff is likely a thin sheet laminated to some kind of backer panel (plywood, masonite, etc.). 1/4" stainless would be incredibly expensive, and equally heavy.

That being said, if there's a thin laminate on a substrate, it's likely that you could cut this stuff with a circular saw. Maybe try it on a small piece and see how it goes.

Bob

Dustball

That's why I mentioned what I used to use- grinder with cutoff discs

Fakiza

A bit of clarification, the panel that i got is about 6 mm, so it is really thin, sorry about the confusion, I just want to make sure when i am joining panels together, the cut edges look clean and not jagged. the actual metalm is about 2 mm and it has a plastic backin about 4mm thick

mickeyco

I was waiting for someone to say that: "1/4" stainless would be incredibly expensive, and equally heavy." If it's thin, a nibbler or electric shear works great, my friend uses them to cut out sunroofs on cars and the cuts are real clean without distortion, maybe a little filing to knock off any burrs or dull the exposed edges. You can rent either of the tools, I prefer the nibbler, but practice a bit on a piece of scrap to get the feel before cutting your finish piece.

If it is stainless and not a laminate don't cut it on a table saw without a special blade, you can cut aluminum with a carbide blade but not other metals.

Fakiza

thanks for the pointers, My husband suggest that i just leave my kitchen walls the way they are, but i insist on the stainless steel, so i must install them myself, just hope that these techniques work, will try the nibbler and tin sheers to cut out the outlet holes. One more question, should be worried about metal backsplash touching my sockets outlets, I know that I should cut a whole big enough to clear the socket and will have a stainless stell plate covering the socket, but will the backsplash turn into a massive conductor ?? I have the safety type outlets where there is a swiths (red/Black) protecting against surges and they are grounded, just want to be sure.

pre-reno

use a drill and a die grinder make sure your work is clamped before you begin

tgeb

You could get a blade like this for you typical 7-1/4" circular saw.
Not too expensive and would give you a very clean strait cut, where the gringers are a little difficult to handle, and shears can be expensive for a "one time" job like this.

http://www.maxtool.com/index/wm_carbides.asp

(copied from the site, about 1/2 way down the page.)

Avenger 7-1/4'' - 36 Tooth Carbide Tipped Saw Blade
Features:
•AVENGER blades use german C-6 micro-grain carbide tips with titanium and tantalum to provide greater impact strength and durability.
• High carbon steel alloy bodies that have been heat treated and surface ground to prevent flexing bending and distortion which results in greater blade strength and cutting accuracy.
• Designed to cut all ferrous metals like iron and steel pipe, angle iron, flat bar, rebar, and galvanized thin gauge materials. They also easily cut through wood and non-ferrous metals like aluminum.
Specifications:
• 36 tooth
• 5/8'' Arbor
• 7-1/4” Diameter



AV72536 1.00 lbs. $22.99 Qty

No matter which method you choose....Use safety glasses!!

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www.gebcon.com

Chris G

Honestly, the best solution is to return it to Ikea. You probably paid too much. And then find a metal shop or fabricator in your neighbourhood. Give them the dimensions and the type of stainless you want, (18 gauge?), shiny or brushed?. And have them do the cutting. You'll never get a straight fisnished edge otherwise. You'll get better material for less.

Fakiza

Well after many phone calls and endless questions, I found a metal shop that will cut it for me, and not expensive. As for price wise, the panels cost me 18$ for 30X24, 16$ for 30X15 and 20$ for 37X15, My kistchen is really small, so am using a total of 4 panels,, and size wise, it was more cost efficient to buy the small amount from IKEA, but if I had a bigger kitchen, then it would be cost effective to just buy it from the metal shop. Thatnks everyone for you replies,,, but the metal shop came to the rescue.

sheeter

These suggestions are good, but there are other things you should consider. I would recommend that you use electrical tape around the outlet connections, where the wires are attached to create a buffer between the stainless and electrical wires. Eventhough they will not be in direct contact with each other, the electricity could arc across, charging the stainless steel. Also, the product that you are working with is considered a composite material, which can be cut with almost anything except shears or nibblers. Tenryu makes a saw blade that will cut it, but it will be necessary to buff the stainless out afterwards to polish it back up. The heat from cutting it will blue the surface around the cut. You need a 3M 400 sanding sponge that you can use in a drill, usually brown color. You can actually polish it up more with 600 or 800, making it shiny and easier to clean. It can be applied to the wall with mastic so that fasteners aren't required. Using a composite SS backsplash will eliminate heat transfer into the wall, so be careful in the future about using pure stainless sheet, which can only be applied on top of fire rated sheetrock.

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Sheeter
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