Concrete To Subfloor Transition

TB1

In a recent remodel, we removed a wall to open up a room. The new added area has a slab concrete floor which is about 1.5" lower than the osb sub-floor. We would like to continue the existing 1/2" sand-finish, nail down hardwood flooring into the new space. I am not sure of the best method to bring the concrete up to the same level as the sub-floor. No moisture ploblems on the slab are apparent. Any help is appreciated.

rbsremodeling

Try hiring a contractor

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WarnerConstInc.

Your going to have to lower the floors to match the concrete. Its really easy if you think about it.

precisionbuild

2x4 PT sleepers?

wyoming 1

Just drill some holes in the concrete and shoot some expanding foam in it will raise it right up

precisionbuild

Actually this is a good answer.

dkillianjr

I would have never thought of that one!



Dave

Deadhead Derek

Look to the water expansion ratio of water to Concrete. Concrete never really hardens ( the Hoover dam is an example of that) so introducing and abundance of dihydro-oxy to the existing porosity of the slab will account for a swelling to equalize the sub floor differential. a hydrostat and a Fonortiner valve assembly should aid in this. Most of this info is available @ www.areyoukiddingme.net

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thegreek

TB1

Mixed advice from contractors. Sleepers is one, glue down PT panels is another, glue hardwood, float the concrete up. The concern is the concrete moving and causing the hardwood to seperate at the transition.

joasis

I think the consensus is that you are not a contractor. If so, time will tell, if not, you got off really easy.

Enough guys...give him a chance.

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MALCO.New.York

I have to concur with Joasis.

Many a first time poster have NEVER returned due to the beatings they have received. This only occurs when one is perceived as NON-TRADE. You got off very well.

If you venture over here to this Forum, http://www.contractortalk.com/f44/ , employ some due-diligence and take the time to validate yourself and what you do, your questions will become important steps in ALL our experiences.

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TB1

I admit I am relativley new to being a contractor, but the concerns are still there w/ the floor. Just looking for the best end product w/ the floor not looking like a remodel.

rbsremodeling

What ideas did you think of??? or did you just come hear post the question without thinking of solutions??

Run some stuff by us and we will give you some guidance. Any contractor would have some basic ideas even if they are wrong.

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TB1

I apoligize for any lack of experience I may have. I got my general contractors license last year after being asked by many clients to help w/ this or with that. Instead of giving all the work away, we decided it would be good to get a license and do the easier jobs and still be able to pass off the more complicated ones. My experience comes from being a design consultant on custom homes for alomost ten years.

Deadhead Derek

ok, real question, real answer. if the difference is 1 1/2" build the floor up with two layers of 3/4 the first pressure treated perpendicular to the osb subfloor, the second layer parallel. shoot the first layer to the conc. floor with a ramset.

If the differential is a huge concern, put down a layer of felt on the conc, a layer of 1/2 cdx, a second layer of 1/2 cdx perp to the first, and then a layer of ply that floats to the layer of the osb and lace in the new ply with the osb.


.....of course there is always the water method and the fornortnier valve...

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MALCO.New.York

Is that like the Kilcher Pin and the Cahooter Valve?

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Something to One may be Nothing to another!

Ultimate Wisdom---------
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TB1

Sleepers was one. But w/ the 2" x 1/2" oak, it bows a lot and often requires a lot of staples not always on the sleeper pattern.
Floating the slab up w/ a self-leveler and than gluing the H/W floor, but again because of bowing, I don't think gluing is the most effective.
Because of the inconsistant concrete slab (from 1" to 1 1/2" w/in a 10') The best idea at this time has been to float the concrete to a consistant height and than glue down PT sub-floor material foor the H/W to be nailed to.

Halo

You did not go into any detail about the slab/footing/foundation/build design but...my inclination would have been to deal with this issue first. Because of the importance concerning the foundation and all of the logistical elements the fallow (such as support, finished flooring, moisture, etc.), slab removal may be best. Your noted slab thickness raises more questions along these lines.

Deadhead Derek

only in the European model. Metric and all that.

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