Recomendations on columns, this one isn't easy. - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

wizendwizard · 03-21-2009, 09:26 AM

OK guys, is anyone up for this challenge?

House was built in 1829. Columns are hollow, 30' tall, scallopped 2 piece exterior and support roof as well as deck.

wizendwizard · 03-21-2009, 09:44 AM

At $40,000 per column, replacement isn't an option. We are looking at repair only.

The weight is all on the back side which is undamaged. The prior repair was done with bondo. Asthetics are also not an issue. We just need a way to repair the rotted wood on the fronts of 3 columns.

gallerytungsten · 03-21-2009, 09:56 AM

Cut out all the rot, then glue and dowel in replacement pieces of wood that are oversized. When the glue dries, carve out the new wood to match the old.

You probably want to flash the bottoms of the columns, or do something else to protect them from future water damage.

Chris G · 03-21-2009, 10:11 AM

Slice off the bottom 3 inches and install a taller base?

Inject epoxy into any bad spots still remaining above cut line?

tomstruble · 03-21-2009, 10:15 AM

thats a good idea it would give you an oportunity come up with a vented base detail

TaitINC · 03-21-2009, 10:46 AM

I agree with Chris. I would cut the bottom off the existing columns and install a larger base. It appears 3" will not be enough, but regardless of that dimension, it's a good idea. Once you cut off the deteriorated wood, I would reach inside the column (after supported securely) paint what you can reach with wood hardener, than primer what you can reach. I would also install some sort of vents as mentioned above and incorporate a few weep holes.

Is there any other bad spots on the columns, or just the bases?

wizendwizard · 03-21-2009, 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TaitINC

I agree with Chris. I would cut the bottom off the existing columns and install a larger base. It appears 3" will not be enough, but regardless of that dimension, it's a good idea. Once you cut off the deteriorated wood, I would reach inside the column (after supported securely) paint what you can reach with wood hardener, than primer what you can reach. I would also install some sort of vents as mentioned above and incorporate a few weep holes.

Is there any other bad spots on the columns, or just the bases?

Columns are sturdy from about 18" up good wood.

The columns have 1" holes drilled about every 3' up the backside for supposed venting.

Weep holes are a fantastic idea as well as a deeper base.

I wonder how they would feel about adding 18" of the round portion of base in a composite material!......hmmmmmm

tomstruble · 03-21-2009, 03:37 PM

most of the composites i know arent recommended for load bearing applications

wizendwizard · 03-21-2009, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomstruble

most of the composites i know arent recommended for load bearing applications

OK next idea then.

Chris G · 03-21-2009, 05:31 PM

I have been speaking with these folks lately http://www.architecturalsalvagenetwork.net/

Her name is Jona. She's chatty, but very passionate about finding what you want. She's in Philly, but will search North America. She has about 3000 contacts.

They may be able to find you a matching column that you can slice into 4 18" pieces, and then attach those pieces to the bottoms of the columns you have.

The problem will lie in when those columns begin to taper. Hard to tell from the pic. They might be straight for 8' or so.

There is a chance, (mostly in hell) that someone has a concrete mould for that style and can make 18 inch sections out of concrete.

Composite can be load bearing, check these guys for that http://www.imperialdesign.on.ca/ELEM...ns/columns.htm

Worst website in the world. But they do have 24' fiberglass columns for around $5000.

They will do 18" custom sections if you ask. They are in Buffalo, and ship North America.

If you use 18" composite/fiberglass, I would suggest filling with concrete after you slide them in...you'll figure that out, lol

Mike(VA) · 03-21-2009, 05:32 PM

Solid square PT or cedar base, same size as original, height as needed. Cap square base with Azek 1/2" panel. Add round collar to match existing look. If you haven't already, I would carefully check attachment points for upper level porch. If that goes, you got trouble,

Jason W · 04-11-2009, 05:03 PM

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BillD · 04-11-2009, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gallerytungsten

Cut out all the rot, then glue and dowel in replacement pieces of wood that are oversized. When the glue dries, carve out the new wood to match the old.

You probably want to flash the bottoms of the columns, or do something else to protect them from future water damage.

This would be my choice. I would use Spanish Cedar for the repairs, it is rott resistant and a fairly hard wood, resembles mahogany.

Bill

gallerytungsten · 04-12-2009, 12:14 AM

It comes down to whether maintaining an appearance that's "historic" or in that spirit is important or not. (A matter of greatly differing tastes.)

Chopping off the bottom, as some have suggested, might last a long while, but also would look kind of oddball, from the restoration perspective.

Repairing it to be "like it was before" or some facsimile thereof, is harder, but also more satisfying.

Down here I use cypress, also very rot-resistant.

**genecarp** · 04-12-2009, 07:09 AM

This is a common problem with these revival homes, the last repair we did, i raised the whole bottom up, built a larger base(taller) this also allowed me to create pitch on the top plane, and get some water runoff going. I used azek. Although it is not perfect historical restoration, i did look good, it still looks good, and the client is happy. G

Jason W · 04-12-2009, 05:11 PM

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silvertree · 04-12-2009, 07:06 PM

Consider this, its a structoral wood epoxy system that I used for restoration work I did on some Minneapolis and St Paul buildings. I bought lots of this stuff and tried it out on small things and worked up to bigger jobs.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/

This is permanent structural repair and its used here in Minnesota. Cold winters and hot summers.
Also http://www.conservepoxy.com/inst600.htm

rbsremodeling · 04-12-2009, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by silvertree

Consider this, its a structoral wood epoxy system that I used for restoration work I did on some Minneapolis and St Paul buildings. I bought lots of this stuff and tried it out on small things and worked up to bigger jobs.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/

This is permanent structural repair and its used here in Minnesota. Cold winters and hot summers.
Also http://www.westsystem.com/ss/

I have been using Bondo for stuff like this for years works like a charm

silvertree · 04-12-2009, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rbsremodeling

I have been using Bondo for stuff like this for years works like a charm

I used some Bondo today on my showroom truck (interior), fast, paints over well and the chicks love the smell

wizendwizard · 04-13-2009, 05:05 AM

Wood filler / Bondo has been used on these columns before...looks like crap.......