Wood floors in an elevated bay house (Texas) - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

Monarchy · 08-20-2008, 09:26 PM

I am a VERY new homebuilder (1 year, 3 homes). Among the next three we'll start before the end of the year is our own weekend place on the bay in Texas (Rockport).

This home is our gift to the next several generations OR the next major hurricane. Accordingly, we're trying to build this house (2 stories on pilings) to be around for as long as possible which should minimize a little of the movement.

What are your thoughts on rough natural wood floors (as opposed to laminate/vinyl plan/et al)? We REALLY want to find a way, if possible, to include real wood floors.

This is mostly a house movement/Texas coastal humidity question. We will minimize wet swimmers/wadefisherman by having plenty of living area on the ground floor.

Also of note....
No sand to worry about
My lab cleans up spilled margaritas quickly
We'll isolate the fridge, sink plumbing and dishwasher from the wood floor (something akin to a shower pan or hotwater heater pan?)
We don't mind the floors showing wear after time...it's a bayhouse, right?
Bathrooms will be tile

Great site full of some amazingly talented people.....thanks for your brains...

Fair Winds

**genecarp** · 08-20-2008, 10:39 PM

what type of wood?
what size, of boards?
what type of finish? my thought are, i never heard the expression,( rough, natural wood floor). welcome to ct

Floordude · 08-20-2008, 11:42 PM

Yes, get a nice handscraped engineered. Acclimate it properly, and you will have a very nice floor for a long time to come.

L&M has a very nice handscraped engineered.

Monarchy · 08-21-2008, 11:35 AM

I think I should have said "solid hardwood floor"....as opposed to anything engineered.

As far as wood type, size board and finish? Assuming you can actually put in a solid hardwood floor...

Rough finish
Wider plank
Darker finish (or color)

We'd look at anything that fits this criteria....but mostly wondering if it's even reasonable to look at doing it this way.

Thanks for your patience with my nearly complete and total lack of any flooring knowledge

Floordude · 08-21-2008, 09:53 PM

Humidity... Engineered!!!

hayleymench · 09-08-2008, 09:04 PM

Monarchy, may I ask why you think you should have a solid hardwood rather than engineered. No offense intended it's just that I come across so many people that think solid hardwood is the way to go as a means of quality, but they really aren't sure why they think that. In your situation, I would recommend engineered hardwood. Here's why - It's made of layers of plywood constructed in a "cross ply" pattern with a layer of solid hardwood on top. So what you see and walk on is genuine hardwood. The benefit is, if your floor tried to expand or contract from rises or drops in humidity levels, the cross ply construction helps to resist the effects of this (cupping, bowing, and other nightmares). There is one downfall with engineered hardwood - its can't be refinished as many times as solid hardwood, if at all (depending on how thick that top layer of solid hardwood is) but are you really planning on refinishing that many times during the life of the floor? Hope that help you make your decision.

Sincerely

Hayley

onenia · 09-09-2008, 07:50 PM

Monarchy,

If you're worried about hurricanes than tile might be a better option if you're concerned about water damage. Where at in Texas is the house?

Nia

Floordude · 09-10-2008, 05:09 PM

Ya, right about now, wood floors are the least of their worries.

We are suppose to get 90 mph sustained with 125mph gusts here in Austin.

craigt617 · 09-13-2008, 12:52 AM

Monarchy, I would recommend looking at Pine or Fir flooring, They handle moisture very well. Pine is what they use in engineered flooring, that is why engineered adapts so well to high moisture locations. Pine and Fir are soft floors, so a rustic grade flooring, I believe, is a great choice. Rustic flooring has character, which helps conceal some accidents. Hayleymench said it best about engineered, it cant be refinished as many times. You can get many sandings out of the real thing and I tend to lean towards the real thing. Pine and Fir last a lifetime, and is suitable to your conditions. Many cabins and porches have pine and fir flooring. I would definately look into the pine and fir. I have also put in alot of engineered flooring, you will have more options to chose from. BUT, I have yet to work on a 100 year old engineered floor.

72chevy4x4 · 09-22-2009, 06:26 AM

check out his other posts-sounds more like a DIY guy building his own house than a contractor. the other thread is about getting the best costs on doors

astor · 09-29-2009, 05:47 PM

We know that some customers insists solid no matter what. Engineered flooring sounds to them like veneer stuck onto ply. Good quality engineered flooring (dry-sawn with 3 -4 mm top layer) actually better than solid,but some customers are very traditional or stoneheaded. As long as the house is A/C'ed, I don't see any reason why not to install 3/4" solid wood as long as stability test passes. Woods like Brazilian Walnut-ipe-,Massaranduba,Brazilian Teak-cumaru-will perform well as long as professionally installed. White oak if rift-sawn is also very stable.
I have installed floors in homes just beside beach and over the water and never had issues.There are extra precautions to be taken-such as insulation/water barriers under subfloor etc.in water properties.

Floordude · 09-30-2009, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by astor

Woods like Brazilian Walnut-ipe-,Massaranduba,Brazilian Teak-cumaru-will perform well as long as professionally installed. White oak if rift-sawn is also very stable.

My vote would be for Texas Mesquite! That stuff is so stable, I think I'd attempt putting it in the bottom of a swimming pool. (Joking!)

Cdat · 09-30-2009, 10:18 AM

Solid wood is the way to go. As those above stated, get something already used to wet conditions and you'll be fine. As someone above also stated, some of us thick headed individuals don't trust man made floors over solid.

ger_xiong · 10-03-2009, 03:38 AM

You should start with testing the sub floor with a moisture meter before making a decision on material.

Engineering flooring is Proven to be a lot more stable in high moisture area. It's no myth.