What To Use For Filling Holes In No.2 White Oak..

Texwing

HI, this is a follow on from another post on No.2 white oak flooring I am laying..Love the floors imperfections for our cabin, but there are some worm holes and other holes large enough to need filling. Another post mentioned a two part exopy, amber colored, that they used, but without the name of the product. I am concerned that some of the fillers offered at home depot will not hold up over time, and would appreciate any advice. I presume I need to fill before sanding, and we will be staining with Minwax "provincial" stain, then 3 or 4 coats of oil based poly. Thanks in advance, and we are not going to fill most of the imperfections, just the ones that go all the way through to the subfloor...

gallerytungsten

Save some of your sawdust, mix with wood glue, and fill. Deep holes might need another pass. It will take some of the stain, although you might want to test on a scrap first.

dubz

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...05+Epoxy+Resin

West systems two part epoxy with a little lamp black. Don't do the saw dust thing for oak floors. I have put down a bunch of them and it's the best solution.

My house is reclaimed white oak that had huge knot holes. You fill them in like that and it's beautiful. I'll try to get pics up.

Also, try a sample of Watco medium walnut for a stain,then poly with satin or antique finish.

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dubz

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the big 12 inch

Awsome floors dude!!!.I wouldn't fill the holes myself..

Texwing

The floor pics are really beautiful, thanks for the information. I will look for the filler. I suppose I really need some guidance on what size hole I need to fill, this no. 2 white oak floor is in a semi rustic cabin, and we are choosing to leave most of the flaws in the oak, but I am a little unclear on just how big or deep of a worm hole (not very many knot holes) or flaw must be filled for functional reasons. This is a low use, low traffic floor. I mean, will we find a deep worm hole fills with debri and dirt, and is hard to clean, or not so much? thanks for the help.

woodchuck2

I have always used the sawdust/glue method which for me works well but i must say that epoxy you used looks good on that floor.

Texwing

Ok Thanks for all the help, but a couple of more questions:

1. The West 5 minute epoxy looks pretty much like lots of other 2 part epoxies available at the hobby shop, does it have some unique floor characteristic? I am asking in case I can not locate the West brand epoxy in my area.

2. Lamp Black: I have heard of this, but where would I find it to mix with the epoxy?

3. If I go the sawdust route, should I use white or yellow gluem or??.

4. Still looking for answers on just flat not filling the holes, or at what point they need to be filled.

Thanks again for all the help!

floorinstall

We use the dust from the edger bag mixed with the polyurethane that we finish the floor with. The filling has to be done prior to the final sanding or the floor will end up looking splotchy the filler is spread on the floor.

The Red

I like the holes not filled. I have a 1777 colonial and i like the flow and the inperfections...

The Red

The paint on the mantle is the same color shade i used on my mantel and raised panle wall. Ha

dubz

I forgot about this. In case you haven't done it yet, I'll answer.


I would fill everything. It is WAY easier to keep clean and the black looks good.

It's from the Old Sturbridge Village line of paint, antique pewter.

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woodfloorpro

I use Bostic brand 2 part clear epoxy #7575 with an epoxy gun and mixing nozzels before any sanding and again after my cross cut. Then I use Duraseal full trowel fill on every sq.inch after 1st straight cut and spot fill after that before medium cut. I perfer the clear epoxy as it takes on the characteristic of the knot. If the Knot is dark then the clear will be dark and so on. I completely fill the floor because my clients generally like to see the imperfections but they don't necessarlly want to clean them. Good Luck Mike