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07-08-2008, 07:04 PM
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#1
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Member
Trade:
General Contractor
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Traverse City, Michigan
Posts: 36
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Subfloor question
I'm currently working on a house that has 5/8ths plywood directly over the joists and 3/4 inch particle board nailed over that throughout the whole house.
The house is about 25-30 years old and the subfloor seems to be very stable with no noticable movement or noise. It was all previously covered with carpet and linolium but they would like to do some tile in the bathrooms and either hardwood or a laminate in the rest.
I would guess that the particle board needs to go where there will be tile but what about under the wood options? Would it be best to take it all out and sheet over top with some 1/2 inch plywood and then install hardwood?
Thanks for responding, I just want to go about this in the right manner so whatever they choose will last another 25-30 years.
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07-08-2008, 07:17 PM
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#2
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Plumber / Carpenter
Trade:
Virginia Building and plumbing contractor
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Farmville, Va
Posts: 1,621
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I believe you can go over the patical board ok, may want to wax paper or something down so the new floor can "Float"
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07-08-2008, 08:10 PM
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#3
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Knowledge Factory
Trade:
Certified Floorcovering Failure Investigator
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 1,289
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Use the floating method and you can go over the particle board with engineered wood or laminate flooring.
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07-08-2008, 08:13 PM
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#4
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Plumber / Carpenter
Trade:
Virginia Building and plumbing contractor
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Farmville, Va
Posts: 1,621
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Floordude
Use the floating method and you can go over the particle board with engineered wood or laminate flooring.
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My bad, partical, not OSB. OSB I would think would tend to want to grab at the flooring.
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07-08-2008, 08:23 PM
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#5
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Knowledge Factory
Trade:
Certified Floorcovering Failure Investigator
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 1,289
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A cushioned underlayment is always used under a floating installation.
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07-08-2008, 11:11 PM
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#6
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Member
Trade:
General Contractor
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Traverse City, Michigan
Posts: 36
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What if they wanted to do traditional hardwood though, or would it be ok if nailed all the way through to the original plywood subfloor? I'm also always leary of this stuff (particle board) because we have lots of snow and moisture here and with the way this stuff swells it tends to make me really think about installing something nice over top of it : meaning that if there is a chance this stuff could mess up a great installation I'd take it out in a second.
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07-12-2008, 02:07 PM
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#7
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Pro
Trade:
Remodeler
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 219
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Dont install hardwood over the particle board. We always rip that up and lay 1/2 inch ply.
Edit: Thats if the flooring is nail-down
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07-20-2008, 11:23 PM
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#8
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Pro
Trade:
building for 30 years. new homes , additions , lite dirt work ,
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 374
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I would remove the particle board and shoot the flooring over the 5/8s ply over the beams with the paper under the flooring.
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07-20-2008, 11:41 PM
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#9
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Member
Trade:
General Contractor
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Traverse City, Michigan
Posts: 36
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I pulled out all the particle board and am planning on installing 3/4 B/C plywood screwed to the 5/8 inch subfloor. Ended up getting some nice unfinished cherry 2 1/4 inch flooring from a local supplier.
I'm thinking that when I nail this material down I'll probably lay 15lb. felt and then use 1 1/2 inch cleats (as I already have a cleat nailer). I'm thinking the 1 1/12 inch nails will be sufficient and get into the new 3/4 all the way. Is there any reason to go longer? Also does it even matter which direction I lay this stuff out as the 3/4 should be plenty stiff with 5/8ths under it, it would make life easier in some of the rooms as there is baseboard heat and getting under that to nail in the first few rows looks like quite a job.
Any input is appreciated, thanks for the responses.
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07-21-2008, 10:26 AM
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#10
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egotistical prick
Trade:
Wood Inlay
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Swartz Creek, Michigan
Posts: 2,416
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Some people here will say that 2 inch staples or nails is all you need to put in flooring on 3/4 flooring with 3/4 subfloor. I'd call into question their skills  , as you have to take into account, you're nailing into the tongue. so, it'll drive thru both and still punch out the bottom. I'd use 2 inch since they can then seat themselves in the original 5/8 subfloor.
Where you get your wood up there? I make visists up there all the time to shop at Rare Earth Hardwood. Can't find flooring any cheaper then what they sell it for and I use it for a lot more than just flooring.
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07-21-2008, 05:49 PM
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#11
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New Guy
Trade:
Realtor
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 17
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You shouldn't have any problems going over particle wood.
Hope i was helpful,
Steven
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07-21-2008, 07:25 PM
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#12
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Knowledge Factory
Trade:
Certified Floorcovering Failure Investigator
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 1,289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevensmth89
You shouldn't have any problems going over particle wood.
Hope i was helpful,
Steven
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That was very uneducated advise. Particle board IS NOT an approved substrate to fasten into, by any wood manufacturer/Mill, period. It is well known, the many problems that occur with particle board, and your floor is only as good as what is under it.
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07-21-2008, 07:36 PM
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#13
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Steve
Trade:
Residential Renovations
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Sarsfield, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 761
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Floordude
That was very uneducated advise. Particle board IS NOT an approved substrate to fasten into, by any wood manufacturer/Mill, period. It is well known, the many problems that occur with particle board, and your floor is only as good as what is under it.
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He's populating a lot of posts with irrelevant responses. Probably just to get min 20. Trade: Realtor.
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07-21-2008, 08:00 PM
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#14
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egotistical prick
Trade:
Wood Inlay
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Swartz Creek, Michigan
Posts: 2,416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OCRS
He's populating a lot of posts with irrelevant responses. Probably just to get min 20. Trade: Realtor.
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No, look at his business link and signature link. He ain't nothin' but a friggin' spammer! Where the fruck is a mod when you need one?
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07-21-2008, 09:30 PM
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#15
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Member
Trade:
General Contractor
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Traverse City, Michigan
Posts: 36
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Cdat - thanks for the response and my thinking was that if the inch and a half cleats didn't reach the original 5/8ths it would be better. The original subfloor is over 30 years old and pretty dry. I was thinking that if I ran the cleats all the way through I might run into problems with it blowing out pieces from the bottom side, thus keeping the cleats in the top layer would offer better holding power and not weaken the subfloor.
I ended up getting the material from Matelski Lumber in Boyne Falls, right off of 131 on the main road that runs to Boyne City (I believe it's M-75). I've bought other real wood products from them before and they have very competitive prices on just about everything. I've installed some of their log siding and also a lot of different tounge and groove (both siding and interior products) with great results. As a general rule I'd say they are always at least 30% less than the yards with comparable quality.
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07-21-2008, 10:46 PM
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#16
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Trailer park boy
Trade:
Remodeling
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Castlegar, BC, Canada
Posts: 1,557
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abm2958
am planning on installing 3/4 B/C plywood screwed to the 5/8 inch subfloor.
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You did mean to say "glued and screwed" didn't you? and make sure you get some rows of longer screws into the joists
Last edited by shanekw1; 07-21-2008 at 10:50 PM.
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07-22-2008, 12:04 AM
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#17
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Member
Trade:
General Contractor
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Traverse City, Michigan
Posts: 36
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I wasn't actually going to glue the new 3/4 to the old subfloor. My plan was to secure the old subfloor better with some new screws first and then follow these guidlines, http://www.johnbridge.com/images/mik...-0604.pdf..pdf , for installing the 3/4.
Any reason this won't work? I'm open to input.
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07-22-2008, 08:17 AM
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#18
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Tile Contractor
Trade:
Building Trades-Specializing in Ceramic Tile
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Hastings Nebraska
Posts: 975
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Quote:
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......and make sure you get some rows of longer screws into the joists.
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May be OK here with a wood floor, but this should never be done with a tile installation. You never want to attach the underlayment directly to the floor joists..
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