Uuber_Framer

Hi All,

As you might notice, I don't post here often but now that I am in a bit of a jam........

Here is my problem; I am moving into an apartment in an old building here in Los Angeles with the origional hardwood floors from circa 1930. The manager of the building knows me and my work and gave me the OK to re-finish the floor.

There was almost no shine left and it was obviously very worn. I rented a square-type upright power sander and did the sanding without incident. I gave it a light sand because I have no idea how much was left. But I did sand until all the previous finish was gone.

The problem is with the finish I applied. I know you experts and purists will hang your heads and snicker quietly to yourselves but this is not the first time I used 'Minwax Wood Finish' to stain and finish at the same time. I used the stuff about 2 yrs ago on another floor under almost the same circumstances and it came out very nicely.

The only difference is that this time I used ' Dark Walnut'. The other time I used a lighter color of stain. This time it was quite difficult to even the stain. I don't think that is the root of the problem however.

The problem is that the finish remains somewhat tacky. I applied it with a lambs wool applicater on Sat(2 days ago).

A nieghbor who lives in the building told me that quite a few years back someone put a sealer on the floor but I have no idea what the circumstances were. I assume the floor was in its raw state. But maybe it wasn't. Maybe the finish was just worn to nothing at the time.

Anyways, if anyone has any suggestions, I would be indebted. I hope to have time to paint the place before I move in this weekind.

Scott Young

i would take give it an acetone or mineral spirits bath. i would use a terry cloth hand towel and basically scrub the floor and remove as much residue as possible.

i don't know for sure, but from my previous experiences when i have a sticky residue it is because of several factors. one the coat was too thick to cure, there was a substrate that the solvent activated and it hasn't recured, i used a inferior product that doesn't cure well under high humidity. there are several things that could be playing against you. personally would try the mineral spirit bath/scrub first in a section, and then place a fan to move air over it. if that doesn't help then use the acetone.

the acetone will work a little faster, but flashes off faster and is more harsh.

Peladu

Sticky just means it hasn't cured yet .... open a window or something and let it breath.
2 days does seem long, but I have had this product be tacky still after 24 hours.
That's what I think.

Scott Young

peluda, i missed the mention of "2 days". your right it hasn't had time to cure. i was thinking it was still tacky for about a week.

Uuber_Framer

Thankyou for the replies.

So now it has had four days and it is margionally better. I can walk on it without leaving marks. Still a tad sticky. I am going to keep my fingers crossed that in another 2 days or so, it will be cured fully.

I guess I was panicking a little. But like I mentioned above, I used the same product once before under pretty much the same conditions and it was dry as can be on the following day.

If it never gets better(and I pray it does) I may have to resort to the acetone procedure. Thankyou Scott Young for that info.

For now, I wait.....

Eugene12

Uuber_Framer - how did it work out back then? I'm in the exact same boat - it's been 2 days and the finish hasn't dried yet. Really thinking about using mineral spirits, but don't want to loose the staining - it came out very nice. What did you do? How long did it take to cure fully? Thanks!

Eugene12

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floorinstall

Is the product you used called polyshade? That is the minwax product that stains and urethanes all in one move. It is not for floors!!!! It is a poly acrylic stain. The darker the color the more pigment it has in it.. Given time and air movement it will dry. If the temperature drops below 50 degrees it will never dry. Do not try to clean with a mineral spirit or acetone bath this will just smear the finish and ruin an already problem job. Once the finish drys and cures be careful not to scratch the surface because since the color is in the poly if you scratch the finish the raw wood will show through. That is why you never use it on floors.

Eugene12

Thank you for the quick reply. I really need help on this one. It is MinWax Wood Finish

So, you think it's better to use a good heater fan to speed up the drying process vs mineral spirits?

Nathan

Eugene12 - Since your trade is set to "None" I assume your a DIYer instead of a professional contractor. Please ask your question over at our sister site www.DIYChatroom.com.
Thanks!

__________________
Nathan

"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain that which he cannot lose." - Jim Elliot

Eugene12

You are correct. I posted a question in DIY forum now. Thank you. However if any experienced contractors willing to share their opinion I won't mind If I was a contractor as oppose to DIY I wouldn't make this mistake in the first place. Thank you.

aceflooring

If a DIY site can't help you. Is the seal you used a water based sealer, or a solvent based sealer. Most professionals will and only us a WBS - Water Based Sealer and thin with acetone would help but I bet a Million dollars your problem is that what you picked out is a Solvent based sealer like{apherheric urathan} The sealer pick up some of the oil stain and is taking longer to dry. If it picked up too much it will take days weeks, you need to thin with an anti-oxidizing agent like Xylene and lacquer thiner, but not too thick or you could reactive the oil underneath. and there will be alot of V.O.C's so blow out pilot lights, fan in windows, ect. Lacquer thin will evapotate the fastest. spray it on lightly with a pump up pesticied sprayer. and remember that chemicals will strip paint.