Square Cut 5" White Oak

Team Fountain

Hello all and thanks in advance for your help.

I am an experienced all around remodeling contractor with a self taught background in custom cabinetry. I have a fabulous shop and lots of all around knowledge. That being said, I need help. I'm building an 8k sf beach house in MD. We are installing 3/4 x 5" quarter sawn unfinished white oak. It is in 10 - 14 foot lengths. It is cut sqare on the ends (not end matched). I've never installed square ended flooring before. It's always been t&g on the ends. What do I need to know?????

The hardwood is on site and I will be checking it and the subfloor for moisture tomorrow. The house is currently being heated to 68d. I will try to let it acclimate to 2% difference between 3/4 plywood subfloor and flooring.

My only real concern at this point is the but joints. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

gallerytungsten

You can dowel or biscuit join the ends if you want to lock it up tight.

Team Fountain

Is it common to do this? A local installer told me with quartersawn he spaces the butt joints with a piece of 15# felt this time of year and leaves them go. I was thinking about using a piece of slip-spline in a router groove, but he was trying to convince me I'm driving myself nuts over a non issue. I also considered my Festool Domino cutter as an easy solution.

jamestrd

you will probably have to re cut the butt joints square on some boards.

yes,you are driving yourself crazy for nothing..

you can glue and nail and save yourself the splining work..
personally, after acclimation, i would just install flooring over felt and nail to joists..

Team Fountain

Brings up another interesting question. With square end flooring, I have the opportunity to cut the flooring so it ends on joists. Floor is constructed of 3/4 dryply over 14" TJI with 3 1/2" top and bottom cords placed 16" oc. Joist spans vary but average 16'. Floor has very little flex, expecially for new construction.

Deicide1

I've always drilled, screwed, and plugged the ends of the boards. Sure it takes a lot of time, but you won't have any issues ever.

Leo G

Why not get simple set of router bit T&G cutters and make your own T&G ends. Other than that, just let it fly. The QSWO is very stable and will stay flat all by itself.

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astor

I have installed 1000's of wood flooring with no t&g at the ends by just cutting of the ends to square.Specially ordered flooring with long lengths always comes like.The first row and the last row I router the ends and put splines with glue.At the other rows the ends are sandwiched and supported between the board before and the board after.The wood virtually does not expand lengthwise.I have seen the floors I did 22 years ago with this and shows no indication that the ends are not t&g.
Good liuck.

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PA woodbutcher

Sorry guys, resurecting another

Came across this when searching matched ends...I have had the opposite. I did 4 houses last year in black birch without matched ends.

Floor I'm doing now is a fairly lowed grade pre finished with matched end...They suck

Unfinished it would be no big deal, it's going to get sanded and filled before finishing anyways. She ended having to gut and redo her kitchen in the project (I get to build the cabs). Her sacrifice was she went from a #2 oak to a tavern grade....You know little short pieces of well you know the deal. The matched ends don't always match to go along with 32ds difference in widths + or -, various colors ranging from dark brown to red to blonde

Sorry had to vent..slow going at best

Good thing about the job...also mudding the drywall, closing in a few doors and opening a couple up...so I get a break form the up and down. Have a total of 1,100 feet to do...600 down

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Mike Costello

Welcome to our world, lol.

Either do alot of culling (Dumping the offending boards ), or live with it, its suppose to look rustic and you will drive yourself crazy looking for perfect boards in that grade

PA woodbutcher

Think of you guys often in the last week and feeling for your lower backs and knees.

Do you guys prefer the matched ends or not? I would think that the matched ends are better on the higher grade flooring. I find myself thining down the tops of the tounges on quite a few to get them to lay even, and planing down the ones that that are 2 1/4+. I've found the the power plane and chisel are my friends.

Was talking to the guy that I will be getting my mop boards and door trim from (they also do unfinshed flooring) and he said that they don't even do the matched ends on their flooring anymore.

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'The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant; it's just that they know so much that isn't so.' - Ronald Reagan