Screwed up on the Stain !! - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

AcademyHardwood · 09-30-2009, 01:28 PM

Heres the Scenario, he scoured the floors with a buffer and a water based cleaning soultion then let it dry. From then on he sanded the floors down with a 120 grit, then to a 220 grit, because the floors hadnt been finished prior, so it was fairly easy...the only down fall was the floors are pine and it became cupped where they are joined by the tounge and groove, so when he was sanding (with out taking a good portion off the floor), he couldnt get it flat. That being said there were coloration differences so he couldnt just throw down a poly, it wouldnt look unified, so he went with a stain. His wife went to lowes and got a min wax water based stain they suggested to her and it was for furniture not hardwood floors... so before he realized it, he had applied it to the 1700 sq. ft of his hardwood floors and after it dried it looked like crap! so he tried to sand down the overlap marks and blend it in... which made it worse. so he went back to lowes and they gave him his money back plus some for inconvience, now the real question i have to sand down the stain again... and start all over, but... if he uses a fine sandpaper is it possible to sand down the stain to a white wash (by the way the color is desert sand) blend it nicely then poly? or is he flat out screwed and has to sand down to natural wood again?

**genecarp** · 09-30-2009, 01:42 PM

Wow, what a mess. It is an interesting series of events that led to the current condition of the floor. The answer, like most answers is not straight forward. Of coarse the safe bet would be to sand the whole floor down again and start over. The other option is what we call the EXPERIMENT, sanding out lighly, and going over with a semi trans could produce a wash effect. we have created many a beautiful floors going the EXPERIMENT ROUTE. That is just one approach, take a section of the floor and experiment. Please note you must have a basic understanding of wood/finishing products/application techniques, etcc in order for the shoot from the hip approach, if you dont have someone with those skills available, strip it and do it again. G

the big 12 inch · 09-30-2009, 05:11 PM

Post this bull**** over on the DIY site!!....SHEEEEESH...

JK Floors · 10-01-2009, 01:09 PM

Academy, you presented yourself as a pro. You started by cutting and pasting articles and then started to ask beginner type questions. I hope your customers don't search on the web. Good chance they'll catch the fact that you are in over your head most of the time.

AcademyHardwood · 10-02-2009, 11:35 AM

Wow u know alot about me.. im impressed. I guess my post arent working.. I would use one of the smiley faces, but i realized im not a complete retard.

Hate it or love it, the underdogs on top.

**ChrWright** · 10-02-2009, 11:56 AM

You screwed up a floor and/or you obviously don't know a lot about finishing wood...how does that put you on top?

monkey · 10-02-2009, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AcademyHardwood

Wow u know alot about me.. im impressed. I guess my post arent working.. I would use one of the smiley faces, but i realized im not a complete retard.

Hate it or love it, the underdogs on top.

I don't usually do this but.....
"your the top...your the tower of pizza(pisa)
you're the smile...on the mona lisa
if I'm the bottom then baby you're the top!"

ger_xiong · 10-03-2009, 02:56 AM

Floors will need to sanded back down with an eighty or one hundred grit. Buff the floors with a 120 grit mesh screen, pop the grain using water to minimized uneven color in the wood. ( recommended for softwood. )

220 is a little fine for staining - color will appear uneven and poor.