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Removing tile that is set under base cabinets..

92K views 43 replies 26 participants last post by  Mike Finley 
#1 ·
Hey all... Went to look at a tiling job that was in the kitchen. Anyway, there is currently tile there that is failing, in a few spots, nothing major. Just some cracking on a few. I believe due to poor craftsmanship. The homeowner wants new tile and so forth.
The current tile is under the cabinets. I've never removed tile that was under the cabinets, just to the toe-kick.

What's the procedure for removing the tile? I would assume to just cut the tile where it meets the cabinet, but there is a bit of intrusion from the cabinet face, to the cabinet base. I'm not able to use my grinder with a 4' tile blade to cut it.. I've thought about just using an air-hammer with a chisel, but then with the face of the cabinets there, i would be coming in at about a 30 degree angle which would have me taking out the front of the cabinets base support.
What to do?
I also thought of just laying down laminate right over???? But Not to sure of that..
 
#5 ·
Yeah, i understand that, but as I stated, my concern with that is, the angle I will be coming in at is very low. I will probably end up taking tile that is "under" the cabinets and I'm afraid of disturbing the support that the tile is serving for right now.

I usually offer some options to resolve the damage that does occur from remove tile at the toe kick that still is set underneath the cabinet base.
One, if possible remove the toe kick prior to demo and rest after demo prior to your install of the tile. Second, you can put ceramic tile onto the toe kick. Third, re laminate or re board the toe kick.
lol!! I'm sorry, but I am totally lost on that comment sir. No offense...

try the crane toe kick saw with diamond blade and tape off cabinet so no damage to cabinets works great.
That looks like the exact tool I would need. I am going to call my local tool rental tomorrow. Thanks Kevjob!
 
#3 ·
Offer Options to Deal with the Damage from Tile Demo

I usually offer some options to resolve the damage that does occur from remove tile at the toe kick that still is set underneath the cabinet base.
One, if possible remove the toe kick prior to demo and rest after demo prior to your install of the tile. Second, you can put ceramic tile onto the toe kick. Third, re laminate or re board the toe kick.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Seconded.

If you are laying laminate I don't see the need in pulling the tile though, unless there is a height issue. If it's on a slab I can't see where a 1/2" would make much of a difference. If its on wood and your pulling tile and backer that makes sense.

edit: You can also tile directly over existing tile, provided it is sound, bonded well (golf ball test it!), and there is NO cracking of tile or grout. Just a thought.
 
#10 ·
bujaly, I think I know what you are saying, your worried about taking the support away from the bottom of the cabinets. What I have done in the past when doing something like this is just sorta remove the tile infront of one cabinet at a time reshimming as I go as nessesary. Make sure the cabinets are screwed together so one holds the next. Heck you could even have the HO empty the cabinets.


Dave
 
#21 ·
Thanks guys. I appreciate all the info. I'm just gonna rent a toe-kick saw from ABC rental. 30 bucks a day, charge them 60.
 
#32 ·
just got done with similar job, 4 vanities in one bathroom. Tile went 3" under vanities. 10" tiles went to replace with 14"s had no problem. Started in the middle of the room w/a pneumatic tile chisel. Once I got to the tile in the cabinet, the hardy board and mastic popped, scooted the tile and board out at the same time. Also had the same thing on concrete floor, was even easier, mastic popped right up. Cut the new tile 1/2" under vanities.
 
#33 · (Edited)
I have to agree with the MULTIMASTER comment, But if you don't have one the Harbor Freight Multitool is a very good copy of the Multimaster, You'll have to buy the diamond blade (DO NOT BUY THE GROUT BLADE)
The diamond blade is about 3" Dia. Use it to score the tiles right at the cabinet and when you pop them up (Cross your fingers) they should snap on your line. I did a restroom floor that had the tiles go under the cabinet but didn't want to mess with the old plumbing so I didn't remove the (Double Vanity Cabinet).
I actually just busted the tiles out and anything that was flush or sticking out I busted it with a cold chisel. Lots of work Bid accordingly.

If you have a small air hammer the wide blade will work well for you but wear eye and ear protction.
 
#35 ·
On this post some are talking about new underlayment and then new tile.
Others are talking tile over tile.

With the trend today Granite Tops.

This plumber asks. Are future dishwasher replacements being considered, when you are raising floor height?

I mentioned Granite ... Formica tops could be unscrewed and pried up a bit. Not so with the new materials for tops.

Want to see a ticked off customer when they are told I can't get the D/W
out because your flooring man raised the floor.
 
#38 ·
Bidding on a job that has this exact problem.

Newer home. Kitchen is in good shape. Granite top and backsplash.

Customer is dead set on leaving cabinets in place.

I plan to remove the toe kick, then tape the finished end panels and the peninsula.

I just bought a new Rigid tool, (multimaster knockoff) so we'll see how it works.

This customer is going with a 3/4 hardwood throughout.

I'm still undecided about what to do under the dishwasher. She wants to leave it alone, but I'm not sure that's going to work.
 
#39 ·
Bidding on a job that has this exact problem.

Newer home. Kitchen is in good shape. Granite top and backsplash.

Customer is dead set on leaving cabinets in place.

I plan to remove the toe kick, then tape the finished end panels and the peninsula.

I just bought a new Rigid tool, (multimaster knockoff) so we'll see how it works.

This customer is going with a 3/4 hardwood throughout.

I'm still undecided about what to do under the dishwasher. She wants to leave it alone, but I'm not sure that's going to work.
I would not even waste my time trying to use that tool to do that.

Buy the Crane toe kick saw, that's what it is for. We completed a job just like this about a month ago and while using the toe kick saw, the thoughts going through my mind the whole time, were "thank God we bought this tool, I can't even imagine trying to do this with our multi-master!)

You'll still need the multi master to get the inside corners.
 
#42 ·
I came across this problem recently. We used the grinder to get as close as we could. We then scored the tile with a sharp chisel. It is a difficult angle so we covered the cabinet with a moving blanket to reduce the risk of cabinet damage. We then worked on the tile from the limited angles allowed and eventually removed the tile. I have since purchased a Fein Multi Master, which is a high powered chisel, grinder,etc. I believe this will decrease the labor next time.
 
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