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05-26-2009, 12:52 PM
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#1
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Mitch the Handyman
Trade:
Handyman
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Columbia, Maryland
Posts: 523
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Removing tile that is set under base cabinets..
Hey all... Went to look at a tiling job that was in the kitchen. Anyway, there is currently tile there that is failing, in a few spots, nothing major. Just some cracking on a few. I believe due to poor craftsmanship. The homeowner wants new tile and so forth.
The current tile is under the cabinets. I've never removed tile that was under the cabinets, just to the toe-kick.
What's the procedure for removing the tile? I would assume to just cut the tile where it meets the cabinet, but there is a bit of intrusion from the cabinet face, to the cabinet base. I'm not able to use my grinder with a 4' tile blade to cut it.. I've thought about just using an air-hammer with a chisel, but then with the face of the cabinets there, i would be coming in at about a 30 degree angle which would have me taking out the front of the cabinets base support.
What to do?
I also thought of just laying down laminate right over???? But Not to sure of that..
__________________
"Relentless in Reliability and Satisfaction!"
Oh yeah, 1 other thing... Assuming doesn't make an a55 out of me and you, it makes an a55 out of YOU and YOU!!!
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05-26-2009, 01:11 PM
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#2
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Pro
Trade:
Remodeling general
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Annapolis Md
Posts: 1,424
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I use a rotary hammer set on hammer only and a wide chisel and break it off at the toekick. Once I add underlayment it covers right up with the tile.
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05-26-2009, 02:25 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Trade:
flooring- tile/marble/stone/wood & laminate
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 13
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Offer Options to Deal with the Damage from Tile Demo
I usually offer some options to resolve the damage that does occur from remove tile at the toe kick that still is set underneath the cabinet base.
One, if possible remove the toe kick prior to demo and rest after demo prior to your install of the tile. Second, you can put ceramic tile onto the toe kick. Third, re laminate or re board the toe kick.
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05-26-2009, 02:48 PM
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#4
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demo master
Trade:
Remodeling General Contractor
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Denver Colorado
Posts: 1,442
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try the crane toe kick saw with diamond blade and tape off cabinet so no damage to cabinets works great.
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05-26-2009, 03:38 PM
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#5
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Mitch the Handyman
Trade:
Handyman
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Columbia, Maryland
Posts: 523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naptown CR
I use a rotary hammer set on hammer only and a wide chisel and break it off at the toekick. Once I add underlayment it covers right up with the tile.
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Yeah, i understand that, but as I stated, my concern with that is, the angle I will be coming in at is very low. I will probably end up taking tile that is "under" the cabinets and I'm afraid of disturbing the support that the tile is serving for right now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gumba
I usually offer some options to resolve the damage that does occur from remove tile at the toe kick that still is set underneath the cabinet base.
One, if possible remove the toe kick prior to demo and rest after demo prior to your install of the tile. Second, you can put ceramic tile onto the toe kick. Third, re laminate or re board the toe kick.
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lol!! I'm sorry, but I am totally lost on that comment sir. No offense...
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevjob
try the crane toe kick saw with diamond blade and tape off cabinet so no damage to cabinets works great.
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That looks like the exact tool I would need. I am going to call my local tool rental tomorrow. Thanks Kevjob!
__________________
"Relentless in Reliability and Satisfaction!"
Oh yeah, 1 other thing... Assuming doesn't make an a55 out of me and you, it makes an a55 out of YOU and YOU!!!
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05-26-2009, 04:27 PM
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#6
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Professiona Instigator
Trade:
Design Build Remodeling Contractor Washington, DC
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Washington, DC/ Maryland
Posts: 6,546
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tape up the toe kick up real nice. Chipping hammer out the old tile, if you take your time you will get really close with the hammer, put down shoe moulding where the new tile hits the cabinet.
Send Rory 2 dolla
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05-26-2009, 05:08 PM
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#7
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Pro
Trade:
Sure, what you got?
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Auburn Indiana
Posts: 3,790
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Multimaster, or tell them they should pull the cabinets and counters.
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05-26-2009, 05:52 PM
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#8
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Cpt. Chaos
Trade:
Hard Surface Flooring
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Hampton, VA
Posts: 966
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevjob
try the crane toe kick saw with diamond blade and tape off cabinet so no damage to cabinets works great.
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Seconded.
If you are laying laminate I don't see the need in pulling the tile though, unless there is a height issue. If it's on a slab I can't see where a 1/2" would make much of a difference. If its on wood and your pulling tile and backer that makes sense.
edit: You can also tile directly over existing tile, provided it is sound, bonded well (golf ball test it!), and there is NO cracking of tile or grout. Just a thought.
__________________
Precision Flooring
Hampton, VA (757) 256-0848
Tile, Hardwood, Laminate, and Resilients
Installation, Sales & Repair - "We do it right the FIRST time"
Last edited by PrecisionFloors; 05-26-2009 at 05:54 PM.
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05-26-2009, 06:27 PM
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#9
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Professiona Instigator
Trade:
Design Build Remodeling Contractor Washington, DC
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Washington, DC/ Maryland
Posts: 6,546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrecisionFloors
Seconded.
If you are laying laminate I don't see the need in pulling the tile though, unless there is a height issue. If it's on a slab I can't see where a 1/2" would make much of a difference. If its on wood and your pulling tile and backer that makes sense.
edit: You can also tile directly over existing tile, provided it is sound, bonded well (golf ball test it!), and there is NO cracking of tile or grout. Just a thought.
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He mentioned air chisel to demo the floor. If its laminate tile I need to go stop him pronto
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05-26-2009, 07:33 PM
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#10
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Pro
Trade:
Construction and Remodeling
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 1,670
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bujaly, I think I know what you are saying, your worried about taking the support away from the bottom of the cabinets. What I have done in the past when doing something like this is just sorta remove the tile infront of one cabinet at a time reshimming as I go as nessesary. Make sure the cabinets are screwed together so one holds the next. Heck you could even have the HO empty the cabinets.
Dave
__________________
"Pay now or Pay later"
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The Following User Says Thank You to dkillianjr For This Useful Post:
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05-26-2009, 08:00 PM
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#11
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classic muscle
Trade:
General Contractor Tile Contractor
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Kelseyville, CA
Posts: 60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarnerConstInc.
Multimaster, or tell them they should pull the cabinets and counters.
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Oh come on......that's just trying to take the client for a $ ride. There's no need to do that. The toe kick is the way to go. Follow that line of advice and you will not only do the removal right, your client will appreciate the professionalism
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05-27-2009, 11:42 AM
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#12
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Knowledge Factory
Trade:
Certified Floorcovering Failure Investigator
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 1,287
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Harbor Freight Tools has a Crain toe kick saw knock off. It is about $40
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05-27-2009, 03:58 PM
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#13
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Pro
Trade:
Flooring
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Portage County Ohio
Posts: 432
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Dont do it , I burned one of those out on one job of ripping up 3/4 ply
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05-27-2009, 05:41 PM
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#14
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Knowledge Factory
Trade:
Certified Floorcovering Failure Investigator
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 1,287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Costello
Dont do it , I burned one of those out on one job of ripping up 3/4 ply
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Heck, it paid for itself, and you took it back and got a new one, right? Hehehehe.
Believe it or not, I have had many Harbor Freight Tools last longer than I ever expected. I have been using one of their cheap table saws for the easy work, for 9 years now.
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05-27-2009, 06:00 PM
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#15
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Pro
Trade:
Sure, what you got?
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Auburn Indiana
Posts: 3,790
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsss396375
Oh come on......that's just trying to take the client for a $ ride. There's no need to do that. The toe kick is the way to go. Follow that line of advice and you will not only do the removal right, your client will appreciate the professionalism 
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Not if they are willing to pay for it. Seriuosly, how much longer would it take to do what I said vs. dicking around trying to get that tile out from under the toe kick. What about where the fridge is or the dishwasher?
Take 4 hours to pull the counter and lowers in a modest sized kitchen?
How much time and effort will go into messing around trying to get the tile from under the kicks?
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The Following User Says Thank You to WarnerConstInc. For This Useful Post:
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05-27-2009, 07:46 PM
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#16
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New Guy
Trade:
no
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarnerConstInc.
Not if they are willing to pay for it. Seriuosly, how much longer would it take to do what I said vs. dicking around trying to get that tile out from under the toe kick. What about where the fridge is or the dishwasher?
Take 4 hours to pull the counter and lowers in a modest sized kitchen?
How much time and effort will go into messing around trying to get the tile from under the kicks?
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My thoughts exactly. Just pull the bases and be done with it. It'll ultimately save you a lot of frustration, and you'll get a better looking finished product than a "lop and butt."
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05-27-2009, 10:32 PM
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#17
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Pro
Trade:
Flooring
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Portage County Ohio
Posts: 432
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Actually it did make me four times what I paid for it on that job , but the 3/4 ply with the ceramic residue proved to be too much for it.
It went into the bin of unwanted and broken tools at the warehouse....Along with the bucket saw.
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05-27-2009, 10:40 PM
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#18
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Pro
Trade:
Flooring
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Portage County Ohio
Posts: 432
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If I ever was on a job and told my customer- contractor-or store owner- that I needed to pull out cabinets to rip up and install a new floor I would be takin Barista lessons in no time
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05-28-2009, 07:26 AM
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#19
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demo master
Trade:
Remodeling General Contractor
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Denver Colorado
Posts: 1,442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eindecker
My thoughts exactly. Just pull the bases and be done with it. It'll ultimately save you a lot of frustration, and you'll get a better looking finished product than a "lop and butt."
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05-28-2009, 10:29 PM
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#20
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New Guy
Trade:
Custom Tile Marble
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Plymouth Meeting Pa
Posts: 21
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If its that difficult, can you pull the toe kick? Most toe kicks come off without a problem.
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