Hey all... Went to look at a tiling job that was in the kitchen. Anyway, there is currently tile there that is failing, in a few spots, nothing major. Just some cracking on a few. I believe due to poor craftsmanship. The homeowner wants new tile and so forth.
The current tile is under the cabinets. I've never removed tile that was under the cabinets, just to the toe-kick.
What's the procedure for removing the tile? I would assume to just cut the tile where it meets the cabinet, but there is a bit of intrusion from the cabinet face, to the cabinet base. I'm not able to use my grinder with a 4' tile blade to cut it.. I've thought about just using an air-hammer with a chisel, but then with the face of the cabinets there, i would be coming in at about a 30 degree angle which would have me taking out the front of the cabinets base support.
What to do?
I also thought of just laying down laminate right over???? But Not to sure of that..
Yeah, i understand that, but as I stated, my concern with that is, the angle I will be coming in at is very low. I will probably end up taking tile that is "under" the cabinets and I'm afraid of disturbing the support that the tile is serving for right now.
I usually offer some options to resolve the damage that does occur from remove tile at the toe kick that still is set underneath the cabinet base.
One, if possible remove the toe kick prior to demo and rest after demo prior to your install of the tile. Second, you can put ceramic tile onto the toe kick. Third, re laminate or re board the toe kick.
Offer Options to Deal with the Damage from Tile Demo
I usually offer some options to resolve the damage that does occur from remove tile at the toe kick that still is set underneath the cabinet base.
One, if possible remove the toe kick prior to demo and rest after demo prior to your install of the tile. Second, you can put ceramic tile onto the toe kick. Third, re laminate or re board the toe kick.
If you are laying laminate I don't see the need in pulling the tile though, unless there is a height issue. If it's on a slab I can't see where a 1/2" would make much of a difference. If its on wood and your pulling tile and backer that makes sense.
edit: You can also tile directly over existing tile, provided it is sound, bonded well (golf ball test it!), and there is NO cracking of tile or grout. Just a thought.
tape up the toe kick up real nice. Chipping hammer out the old tile, if you take your time you will get really close with the hammer, put down shoe moulding where the new tile hits the cabinet.
Oh come on......that's just trying to take the client for a $ ride. There's no need to do that. The toe kick is the way to go. Follow that line of advice and you will not only do the removal right, your client will appreciate the professionalism:thumbsup:
bujaly, I think I know what you are saying, your worried about taking the support away from the bottom of the cabinets. What I have done in the past when doing something like this is just sorta remove the tile infront of one cabinet at a time reshimming as I go as nessesary. Make sure the cabinets are screwed together so one holds the next. Heck you could even have the HO empty the cabinets.
Heck, it paid for itself, and you took it back and got a new one, right? Hehehehe.
Believe it or not, I have had many Harbor Freight Tools last longer than I ever expected. I have been using one of their cheap table saws for the easy work, for 9 years now.
If I ever was on a job and told my customer- contractor-or store owner- that I needed to pull out cabinets to rip up and install a new floor I would be takin Barista lessons in no time
Cut a hole in the bottom of the bucket for your shop vac hose, and holes in the bucket table, to allow it to suck the dust. Hook both the vac and saw to a power strip with an on off switch.
just got done with similar job, 4 vanities in one bathroom. Tile went 3" under vanities. 10" tiles went to replace with 14"s had no problem. Started in the middle of the room w/a pneumatic tile chisel. Once I got to the tile in the cabinet, the hardy board and mastic popped, scooted the tile and board out at the same time. Also had the same thing on concrete floor, was even easier, mastic popped right up. Cut the new tile 1/2" under vanities.
I have to agree with the MULTIMASTER comment, But if you don't have one the Harbor Freight Multitool is a very good copy of the Multimaster, You'll have to buy the diamond blade (DO NOT BUY THE GROUT BLADE)
The diamond blade is about 3" Dia. Use it to score the tiles right at the cabinet and when you pop them up (Cross your fingers) they should snap on your line. I did a restroom floor that had the tiles go under the cabinet but didn't want to mess with the old plumbing so I didn't remove the (Double Vanity Cabinet).
I actually just busted the tiles out and anything that was flush or sticking out I busted it with a cold chisel. Lots of work Bid accordingly.
If you have a small air hammer the wide blade will work well for you but wear eye and ear protction.
Tile under the cabinets ? literally under the cabinet. This is funny since tile are an aesthetic item within the home. What good is an aesthetic item if it is not visible ?
The OP said their kitchen was already redone so I don't think those would be issues. At the very least, the OP should mention this to the customers as a precaution.
Laying the Laminate Right over the tile is fine. You can also decide to cut into the tile (which would be hard because of where it is positioned) and remove the excess parts that you have no use for.
I would not even waste my time trying to use that tool to do that.
Buy the Crane toe kick saw, that's what it is for. We completed a job just like this about a month ago and while using the toe kick saw, the thoughts going through my mind the whole time, were "thank God we bought this tool, I can't even imagine trying to do this with our multi-master!)
You'll still need the multi master to get the inside corners.
I came across this problem recently. We used the grinder to get as close as we could. We then scored the tile with a sharp chisel. It is a difficult angle so we covered the cabinet with a moving blanket to reduce the risk of cabinet damage. We then worked on the tile from the limited angles allowed and eventually removed the tile. I have since purchased a Fein Multi Master, which is a high powered chisel, grinder,etc. I believe this will decrease the labor next time.
Good luck with it. Test it out a few times before you make your first cuts and keep a firm grip on it or you'll come back here missing a finger or two.
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