Re-using Hardwood

J-Peffer

I ran into a deal today that is changing my options on a project home for myself.

I'm a roofing and siding contractor with very little flooring experince, but would like to know if you gents in the floor trade felt this was an applicaple process.

A gent had contacted me and he is removing 4,000 sq foot of oak T/G hardwood. It's not been sanded, so it has to be finished if it's re-installed.

He'll sell it too me very cheap, I'm basicly paying for the labor to remove it.

Given it's still 3/4" thick and the price I'm getting it for, I'd like to apply it in my investment home I'm doing over the winter.

I know he's going to crack some of the toungs during the removal. I was considering gluing the cracks to add the strength. I know, I'm crazy, but this is just a project to do when I'm not working.

It's going to take more time, but having the house with all hardwood makes it much more marketable, and I'm doing the labor in my free time, so in the end it is cheaper than installing carpet or pergo.

is it "do-able"?

Thanks for any insight!

P.S.
Tips for the removal? I'd like to avoid the tounges breaking.

Tom R

Is it nailed?? (as opposed to stapled??)

Punch 'em right through, - - or slide a saw-zall blade under and cut 'em.

You can forget glueing tongues back on, - - you'll be ripping it all out again, - - and the only advantage is it will be easier . . .

Joining_heads

make sure to take extreme care when removing the hardwoods. But yes, it is doable. There is actually a shop nearby here in Minneapolis that specializes in what you are talking about. We have laid several floors with their reclaimed stuff and it looks great, especially the aged birch and Maple!

genecarp

yes doable, clean removal is the key to the reinstall.

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rbsremodeling

why would you bother you can go to lumber liquidator and get them for about 1.00 a sf

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J-Peffer

I've shopped around, but have been unable to find anything under $2 a sq foot.

PrecisionFloors

Once you start prying the floor up you will see how easy it is to salvage the boards, not difficult at all. The easiest way I've found to remove the fasteners is to lay the board face down with the fasteners pointed up and use a heavy duty pair of tile nips (I have a Husky pair thats perfect for this stuff) that close all the way, and just grab onto em and pull em out through the bottom.

edit: If its nails that is.....staples may be easier to just take a pair of side cutter and cut the legs off.

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SM1

Re: removal tips:
you want to find out which way the tongue and grooves run and start from the "tongue end "of the floor if you will. You'll wanna skill saw the first few boards and toss em...after that you'll prolly be able to salvage 2/3 of the wood easily.
Definitely resand the floor...you'll see once its reinstalled. I prefer the knock the nails back through and pry 'em from the front side method for nails.. I seem to get ALLOOT less breakage...but ya definitely side cutters for staples.

As long as most of the groove is still inact use it. regluing would be serious overkill.
Good Luck and Good Find!!!