Questions about Bona Traffic over a new floating cork floor - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

cej22 · 08-28-2009, 11:14 PM

I've posted this over on the diy board, but maybe it's too advanced for that group since I'm not getting any response. Hopefully you guys can help.

I'm installing a floating cork floor in my basement over Delta FL underlayment. I'm leaning towards adding a coat or two of Bona Traffic for the added durability and to seal the seams. I'm assuming it would be easier to do the coat of traffic before I install the baseboards. True?

What should be the process for prepping the new floor to take the Traffic? Specific grit to use? Should I rent a specific machine to do this, or can it be done easily by hand? I'm doing about 800 sq ft between three rooms.

How long after applying the Traffic can I cover up the floor with red rosin paper? I'm going to spray a final coat of paint on my trim after it's installed, so I need to mask the floor.

Also, what do you guys do with floating floors around door casings? Most manufacturers want ~3/8" expansion gap all the way around, but my door casings have a profile that ranges from ~3/16"-9/16" thick. The floor would look pretty bad if didn't go underneath the door casings all the way.

Thanks in advance.

Metro M & L · 08-28-2009, 11:44 PM

Don't know about bona on cork.

The doorjambs would typically be cut to the correct height with a fein multi tool or a jamb saw. You could also use any flat saw. Hold the flooring against the jamb and then cut.

Use 3m blue tape on the floor for masking after waiting 24 hours. It's medium adhesion with guaranteed release up to like eight days or something to that effect. I like to crank the heat in the room or home while applying poly. Cook it.

cej22 · 08-29-2009, 12:21 AM

Thanks for the reply. I apparently wasn't clear regarding the door casings. Yes, I always undercut the jambs. I have a pretty cool Bosch flush cut saw that I use for that. My issue is that once you have undercut the casing, some casings aren't thick enough to allow you to have an expansion gap and have the floor go far enough under the casing with the appropriate expansion gap. When looking down at the floor, you would see a gap between the casing and the floor. Hopefully that makes sense.

However, as I type this, I realize that a solution would be to also cut out the drywall that lies behind the casing. That would yield an extra 1/2", which would provide plenty of room for expansion, so that's what I'll do. Is that what you guys typically do for a floating floor?

Floordude · 08-29-2009, 09:56 AM

I would call the manufacturer, and get their refinish protocol.

Waterbased is what you want to use on full-bond tiles, as oil is too brittle for the compressible cork.

TopFloor · 08-29-2009, 09:58 AM

You are right about cutting away the drywall behind the casing. Have the vac handy and clear away some expansion space.
Also, your decision to do this before the baseboard goes up makes good sense. Though the floor can receive general foot traffic in 24 hours, it is susceptible to scuffing until it is fully cured, which is 7 days. Bona suggests that rugs do not go down until it is fully cured, so I would not tape any paper down until then as well.
I can not speak to the performance or suitability of Bona Traffic on a cork, floating floor. Of course, you are not planning to put the bona down over a prefinished product, right?
'Metro M & L' suggested 'cooking the poly'. It is true that temperature and humidity will be key factors in the curing process, but be sure to stay within the recommended conditions of 65-80˚F/ 40-60% relative humidity.
You can find some more info HERE.

cej22 · 08-29-2009, 11:06 AM

I had read Bona's instructions and figured covering with rosin paper was close enough in practice to covering with a rug, but I really appreciate the confirmation that I should wait for full cure.

To answer some other questions, yes, it's a prefinished floor (acrylic). The manufacturer specifically recommends using Traffic if you want to seal the seams and provide added durability. Some manufacturers actually require a couple of coats of Traffic if you expect them to honor a commercial warranty. This is in my residence, but clearly adding Traffic will make it a far more durable floor. I also really like the sheen of Traffic in satin. Makes for a beautiful floor.

Bona says to abrade the surface with an orbital buffer and their conditioning pads, which are the equivalent of 320 grit. I'm assuming I could rent such a tool? I've used an orbital carpet cleaner before on commercial carpet, so I'm sure I could handle a buffer on a smooth surface.

I was going to post the URL for Bona's Prep brochure which shows where I'm getting this info from, but I can't post links until I've got 15 posts.

TopFloor · 08-29-2009, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cej22

...I was going to post the URL for Bona's Prep brochure which shows where I'm getting this info from, but I can't post links until I've got 15 posts.

Bona Prep Brochure

cej22 · 09-19-2009, 11:52 AM

I wanted to follow-up and say thanks for the advice. I put down two coats of Traffic over the last two days and the results are fantastic.

FYI, a prefinished cork floor should be dealt with the same way you would handle a prefinished engineered hardwood floor. I rented a 16" floor buffer and I followed the Bona Prep instructions exactly. I was considering skipping the use of their Prep product since the floor is new, but the Bona rep confirmed that the floor should be cleaned with their Prep product anyways. In addition to cleaning the surface, it also softens the factory finish to help it accept the coats of Traffic. Can't argue with the results.