Proimagefloors

I had a call back on a carpet install job that I did due to seams looking bad. When the job was originally installed, the seams looked good and the customer signed off on the paperwork acknowledging that. As the months went by, the seams started to get worse, very noticeable. When I went out to look, I notived that every seam had become very noticeable and there seemed to be a slight shading issue. Now, I am not perfect but my seams are generally pretty good so I could not understand how every inch of every seam now looked horrible. I could see parts of certain seams looking bad but not all of them. Long story short, they sent out a rep who ended up stating that it was an installer issue due to gaps and peaking. When I looked over the job, I will admit, I did notice some slight peaking and there was a few small gaps due to very crooked rows from the row running when I seamed it up. This was a very short but thick cut pile carpet. My questions are, how could every seam get worse over time (roughly a year), what is the deal with the shading & how can the rep say that it is due to gaps when 99% of the seam is nice & tight. I had 1 certified installer mention something about "crocking", does this sound familiar to anyone? Sorry for the long post but I am wondering what my options are as I have never had a job turn out like this and never had to replace someones carpet due to install errors.

Thanks

Chad

Floorwizard

What type of latex was used on the seams?

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"in 20 years you will regret more what you did not do than what you did"

Mike Costello

Lol, I'm not touching the crocking.

The mistake most guys make when doing cut pile is that sealer is not used. That will fail an inspection sure as I sit here. You have still cut the edge of the backing and it needs to be sealed

There could be a giant praying mantis eating the seam in front of the inspector, but if the seam was not sealed it will fail an inspection.

Not for nothin because I row cut most of my cut pile seams too, but if I put it together and noticed gaps I would redo it using a strait edge.

I also do a bunch of stuff to eliminate peaking, I stretch the seam before melting it ( tape doesn't stretch), keep my 6 inch iron on 2 as I seam ( yes i use a 6 inch on almost everything), use a seaming board under the seam, usually luan. I also bought one of those seam weights with the Teflon perforated bottom that seams to work way better than my tray

Mike Costello

Psst Fastlock isnt latex old schooler

Floorwizard

Maybe I am bored and easily amused, but that was really funny.

That my friend is called good advice...

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"in 20 years you will regret more what you did not do than what you did"

Mike Costello

Thanks, been doing more carpet these days thanks to the economy

gideond

If, after all that has been said, you feel that you are still not at fault and it is an issue with the carpet, you need to have an independent inspector come in and look at it. You never take the carpet reps word for it. Their primary interest is protecting the carpet company. Shaw will arrange for an independent inspector at no cost to you most of the time. Mohawk on the other hand will try to avoid inspection at all cost, in my experience at least, so it may vary from one company to another.

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Floordude

How did you cut the seams??

Row gauge can show a gully, or compression, if not correct width as the carpet is made with.

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