Now installing white oak hardwoods need help! - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

Texwing · 02-14-2009, 11:38 AM

Hello to all, I am in the process of putting down 3/4 inch unfinished white oak hardwood flooring, no. 2 grade, in a small lake cabin. The sub floor in 3/4 inch plywood on 16 inch joist centers. The wood is going down great, but as this is not my primary business (HVAC), and I have several questions relating to the upcoming finishing of that floor. By the way, this is a second floor.

1. The hardwoods will be run into the kitchen and upstairs, seldom used guest bathroom with shower. What can I do to insure moisture resistance with occasional spills? Extra coats of urethane? Can I, or should I, glue the tongue and grooves with yellow glue to help seal the planks internally? Comments are appreciated.

2. Any reason not to use staples (from pneumatic floor stapler) every four or five inches instead of every eight inches? It would seem the more the better.

3. Underlayment: I am using roofing felt as it seems to be the standard procedure..While protecting the bottom of the wood from moisture, it would also seem to help keep the wood from drying out in from top side spills and such in the bathroom area-comments?

4. Finish coat: Kelly Moore makes an acrylic urethane call Kel-thane, water based, that I would prefer to use simply because we have used it on the wood walls, and everywhere else in the cabin, including an upstairs harwood floor with little traffic. There is alot of glass, so some areas of the floor will see some sunlight through low E glass.
Anything comments on using this product?

5. This No. 2 white oak has alot of small imperfections and some worm holes, that's fine since we wanted a rustic look. When it comes time to fill the imperfections, is there anything wrong with not filling the minor imperfections? Holes will need to be filled, but do any other guidelines exist on filling other imperfections?

Sorry for all the questions, but this floor is going down fast and your help is appreciated.

hawaii · 02-14-2009, 02:19 PM

1. The hardwoods will be run into the kitchen and upstairs, seldom used guest bathroom with shower. What can I do to insure moisture resistance with occasional spills? Extra coats of urethane? Can I, or should I, glue the tongue and grooves with yellow glue to help seal the planks internally? Comments are appreciated.

You should use one coat of sealee and two coats of finish .You should remember that the finish protects the wood just from the top and smal spils are ok you can wiped it out.Make sure there is no moisture from below the subfloor and use the moisture barrier. I install hardwood floor in Hawaii here we use black moisture barrier paper.
You could glue the tongue , it will help a little bit but more importantly make sure the wood is correctly acclimated.If you us the glue it will for shure come out try to be clean otherwise sanding will be hard.

2. Any reason not to use staples (from pneumatic floor stapler) every four or five inches instead of every eight inches? It would seem the more the better.

Every eight is ok.

3. Underlayment: I am using roofing felt as it seems to be the standard procedure..While protecting the bottom of the wood from moisture, it would also seem to help keep the wood from drying out in from top side spills and such in the bathroom area-comments?

Yes .You might seal the bottom of the wood just applying one coat of sealer.

4. Finish coat: Kelly Moore makes an acrylic urethane call Kel-thane, water based, that I would prefer to use simply because we have used it on the wood walls, and everywhere else in the cabin, including an upstairs harwood floor with little traffic. There is alot of glass, so some areas of the floor will see some sunlight through low E glass.
Anything comments on using this product?

I Use dura seal

5. This No. 2 white oak has alot of small imperfections and some worm holes, that's fine since we wanted a rustic look. When it comes time to fill the imperfections, is there anything wrong with not filling the minor imperfections? Holes will need to be filled, but do any other guidelines exist on filling other imperfections?

Install the floor and after the 80grit apply wood filler.
If the imperfections are big. You can fill it twice.

Good luck.

the big 12 inch · 02-14-2009, 06:09 PM

Put down felt,staple every 8-12 inches,sand,finish with 3 coats dura seal poly...If ya like the cracks and gaps...leave'em...if not...fill'em...Thats it...don't "over think it"!!!

Floordude · 02-15-2009, 11:05 AM

Who in their right mind, would suggest gluing the T&G of the boards of solid wood. Your asking for big trouble if you do!

More staples is not any better and can actually cause the tongue to split.

Sealing the bottom of the boards is a waste of time, especially it being the 2nd floor.

Not all clear coats can take the abuse and abrasion of foot traffic.

No, there is not need but for cosmetics, to fill a floor. Actually as the floor shrinks and swells, the filler will come out over time and be a worse eye sore.

Texwing · 02-15-2009, 09:13 PM

Thanks for the replies
"Floordude", what happens if the tongue and groove are glued? I will defer to your experience, but would like to know. Will the wood split elsewhere during expansion and contraction if the joint is glued?

Also, why not use staples every six inches, or closer than eight, if the wood will accept the closer staples without cracking?

the big 12 inch · 02-16-2009, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Texwing

Thanks for the replies
"Floordude", what happens if the tongue and groove are glued? I will defer to your experience, but would like to know. Will the wood split elsewhere during expansion and contraction if the joint is glued?

Also, why not use staples every six inches, or closer than eight, if the wood will accept the closer staples without cracking?

You're thinking too much again!!..lol..

Floordude · 02-16-2009, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Texwing

Thanks for the replies
"Floordude", what happens if the tongue and groove are glued? I will defer to your experience, but would like to know. Will the wood split elsewhere during expansion and contraction if the joint is glued?

Also, why not use staples every six inches, or closer than eight, if the wood will accept the closer staples without cracking?

The floor will panelize when it wants to shrink & swell. The glue will bond and rip the wood, splitting it when it wants to shrink. Same as refinishing with a waterbase and not using a sealer. The waterbase will act as glue in the seams and the results later are not pretty. If you can get them @ 6" and it isn't splitting, When the floor swells it may split it then. Think about splitting firewood, with a wedge, and the staples are the wedges. Especially a 15 gauge staple. 8" schedule for wider than 3¼ plank boards, and 10-12 " schedule for skinny strip flooring. That is all that is needed.

I agree, that your over thinking and trying to reinvent the wheel.

Texwing · 02-16-2009, 10:00 PM

Ok! Well better overthinking than underthinking. Thanks for the help.

Texwing · 02-16-2009, 10:24 PM

You know, I better ask even though I may still be overthinking it all. Cleates or staples? I am on a combo of 3/4 inch and 1 inch plywood, no osb, although most of the 1 inch plywood is really two 1/2 sheets combined if it makes any difference. My floor stapler will shoot either, and I would prefer to use staples, but there may be some reason not to use staples on plywood. thanks again for all the help.

the big 12 inch · 02-16-2009, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Texwing

You know, I better ask even though I may still be overthinking it all. Cleates or staples? I am on a combo of 3/4 inch and 1 inch plywood, no osb, although most of the 1 inch plywood is really two 1/2 sheets combined if it makes any difference. My floor stapler will shoot either, and I would prefer to use staples, but there may be some reason not to use staples on plywood. thanks again for all the help.

Flip a coin...just don't mix...and don't ask why!!!!!!..lol..

Texwing · 02-17-2009, 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by the big 12 inch

Flip a coin...just don't mix...and don't ask why!!!!!!..lol..

Why why why why why why????????? I must know. OK I wont ask since I like the looks of the staples better for holding power. thanks again for the help!