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#1 |
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Pro
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Newbie Here
Hi, I'm new to the forum. I have over 12 years experience in the hardwood flooring industry. I have worked in many different situations, old and new as well as commercial. As far as the commercial goes, I have worked fraternity and sororities as well has college campuses. I do mostly residential remodel type work and a few new construction homes.
Beyond my 12 years in the flooring industry, I have been around residential construction for most of my life. I have seen homes built from the initial clearing of the land to the septics and basements as well as the concrete and finish work on the homes. I have even been a roofer and even had my hands on a little tuck-point. I have drywalled and even smooth-wall plastered. So, I know how a house works. Blablabla right? Just introducing myself. Hope to add to the knowledge base here. ~~Jeff of Hardwood Floors Exclusive Pacific Northwest |
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#2 |
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Back from the dead...
Trade: Paperhanger/Painter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 6,544
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Re: Newbie Here
Welcome from St. Louis, MO from a guy who doesn't know jack-***** about flooring.
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#3 |
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Administrator
Trade: Admin
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 8,388
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Re: Newbie Here
Great to have you here... feel free to jump right in!
__________________
Nathan "He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain that which he cannot lose." - Jim Elliot |
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#4 |
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Flooring Guru
Trade: Sales Manager
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Anchorage, AK
Posts: 2,797
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Re: Newbie Here
Welcome!
I am looking forward to hearing your hardwood expertise
__________________
------------------------ "in 20 years you will regret more what you did not do than what you did" |
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#5 |
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Ed
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Queens, New York
Posts: 8
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Re: Newbie Here
1. If installing 3/4" oak hardwood floors on top of concrete, should I 1st install a plywood subfloor over the concrete and then nail the floor to the plywood or should I just glue/cement the flooring over the concrete itself.
2. What do u think about english white pine extra wide planks(some planks as wide as 14") as far as installation( glue or nail) and durability ? Thanks in advance Ed |
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#6 | |
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Pro
Trade: hardwood floors
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 177
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Re: Newbie HereQuote:
The wide planks of pine should be "face nailed" from the top and put pegs over the nails, or trim screw would work as well. Dont glue that. :Thumbs: |
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#7 |
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Pro
Trade: hardwood floors
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 177
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Re: Newbie Here
I am kinda lost in here right now
Last edited by adams,b; 08-24-2005 at 11:33 PM. Reason: i was in the wrong place |
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#8 | |
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Pro
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Re: Newbie HereQuote:
2nd never, as a rule of thumb, glue solid strip or plank flooring directly to concrete. If you are above grade you can do a really fun floating floor. Here is how: 1. Make sure plywood is filled and flat and all leaks found and stopped. 2. Install 15lb felt vapor barrier 3. 1/4 inch cork wall to wall 4. 2 staggered layers of 1/2 plywood screwed and glued together (roll carpenters glue every square inch of plywood. After moisture in the plywood reaches proper measurements for your area, start nailing down your wood. The whole floor becomes a floating floor right over the concrete. There is no need for nailing to the slab. Oh, slab must be moisture checked. I would never install pine, fir, maple, or hickory, or any light colored wood over a slab...especially if the slabe is not heated. And I would never use any wood over 3 inches over slab. And, if I had the option, I would only use rift or quartered over slab using the above floating floor system. Now, go out and make money...I'll expect my cut when you're done. Last edited by Donedat; 08-25-2005 at 09:05 PM. |
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#9 | |
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Back from the dead...
Trade: Paperhanger/Painter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 6,544
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Re: Newbie HereQuote:
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#10 | |
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Ed
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Queens, New York
Posts: 8
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Re: Newbie Here
thanks donedat, but would'nt it be easier and cheaper to put down only one layer of plywood. it just seems that it would be too costly for the materials(2 layers of plywood, cork, felt vapor barrier) and the labor to install it. I need to cut down on costs otherwise I can't give u your "cut" lol
Ed Quote:
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#11 |
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Pro
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Re: Newbie Here
I have done it both ways. Nailing down to 3/4 over slab is pretty hard. 2 layers of 1/2" over 1/4" cork makes nailing easier, especially areas where you have to face nail. When you nail it to the slab, there is more chance of moisture transfer to your finish flooring, i.e. moisture traveling up the nails to the plywood and sometimes into your wood flooring.
Oh, the cork is for a sound barrier, so, when you walk on it, it does make a loud tapping sound. |
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#12 | |
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Pro
Trade: hardwood floors
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 177
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Re: Newbie HereQuote:
Last edited by adams,b; 08-28-2005 at 07:21 PM. |
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