Moisture Moisture Moisture...

jamestrd

"This is a pretty technical application -- so specifics are key. Saying to just use a different material because their may be challenges to the material decided isn't a solution."


How do you figure that?

Changing a material is absolutely a solution.
Theres an old song called, "you cant always get what you want"

You are a framer right?

arent their situation where you spec certain types of lumber to perform in a particular condition? and reasons for doing so?
reasons for using pressure treated , fir,, OSB, plywood etc?

the reasons are so they work for a particular application.

same goes for wood floors.

you have a particular conditon that would warrant you revisiting your selection of materials and how to approach the job.

You are working with Solid Brazilian Cherry which can be a nightmare to moisture changes..and a plank at that, increasing the volatility.

Engineered floors are specifically rated to perform in below grade and higher moisture environments and your application certainly calls for it.

The problem here is , you have been given advice and recommendations, and you are challenging each one.

if you insist on working with solids,
i would put down a 3/8-1/2 " underlayment perpedicular to your current subfloor over moisture barrier. use some cutback adhesive, roll 6 mil or 30lb felt into it, screw down underlay, then cover with aquabar or felt, then intall floor. nail to joists, and this just may do the trick for you.. set drainage so water dont accumulate and can run off quickly enough..

fixitpete

I really appreciate the time you've taken. I agree that there are times when a certain material will not work in a certain application. And my challenge is to make what is desired work.

In this case, it is possible to make it work, only there are many obstacles to overcome, making changing the material an easier solution.

In this case solving the underlying problem, the moisture is a two-fold benefit. 1) Moist crawls are simply really bad all around (on materials and on humans) and 2) Creating a conditioned space in the crawl will allow me to install the desired product.

The key is to take every precaution possible and reassess the situation along the way to see if you're heading down the right road.

RJ Tile

It sounds like you should be looking for info on the boat building forums...

All kidding aside, I faced this problem on my first house. Grade was below street level and had a hill behind property. I had water up to the vents my first winter. What i did was add more drainage around foundation, and had it run to two different 50 gallon catch basins with high volume sump pumps in each. Have the water pumped to street level and into city drainage.

This might not work for you, because it sounds like you have ground seepage from tidal waters. If this is the case then your house should have been built on stilts. Where I'm at structures built in the tidal basin need to be above the high water lines and not built with typical foundations. For your sake I hope the crawlspace is flooding due to improper drainage and not due to tidal water rising from the ground, because if it is you have more to worry about in the future than installing wood floors.

Keep us all posted Pete. I'd like to hear what you decide and how it works out.