Laminate N00b Questions - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

MeatBallDryWall · 06-04-2009, 12:08 AM

I'm installing a pergo laminate in my grandparents dining room as they are trying to save as much $$ as possible. I am not a flooring guy as drywall is my trade.

I have 3 n00b questions for the Pro's here.

1st is where the T molding is going in an opening 69 inches wide the floor goes from nothing to 7/8 difference(One part is a new addition added 3yrs ago). That's the difference where the LR & DR sub-floor meet. What's a good "filler" to even the surfaces?

2nd is how long do I need to acclimate the material before install?

3rd is this pergo has a blue plastic "key" in the end joints. WTF is that for? Are you supposed to remove it? Any help is appreciated!!

gideond · 06-04-2009, 06:09 AM

1st is where the T molding is going in an opening 69 inches wide the floor goes from nothing to 7/8 difference(One part is a new addition added 3yrs ago). That's the difference where the LR & DR sub-floor meet. What's a good "filler" to even the surfaces?

What exactly are you trying to do? Do you just want to transition it here or are you trying to bring the floors level to each other before you install the laminate?

2nd is how long do I need to acclimate the material before install?

Laminate is pretty forgiving but I still like to have it in the house for at least a couple of days to be safe.

3rd is this pergo has a blue plastic "key" in the end joints. WTF is that for? Are you supposed to remove it? Any help is appreciated!!

Do not remove this. It sounds like a folding system. Most laminates require you to click a whole row together and then drop that row into the previous row. These end joints should allow you to install the laminate piece by piece instead of row by row. That clip locks the end joints since they fold together instead of locking like a traditional laminate would.

Floordude · 06-04-2009, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MeatBallDryWall

I'm installing a pergo laminate in my grandparents dining room as they are trying to save as much $$ as possible. I am not a flooring guy as drywall is my trade.

I have 3 n00b questions for the Pro's here.

1st is where the T molding is going in an opening 69 inches wide the floor goes from nothing to 7/8 difference(One part is a new addition added 3yrs ago). That's the difference where the LR & DR sub-floor meet. What's a good "filler" to even the surfaces?

2nd is how long do I need to acclimate the material before install?

3rd is this pergo has a blue plastic "key" in the end joints. WTF is that for? Are you supposed to remove it? Any help is appreciated!!

1.) ARDEX Feather finish, filled a 1/2" at a time. One thing to remember, the substrate for a floating laminate floor, is the flatness of the substrate REQUIREMENT, which is 1/8" in 6' Don't get level confused with flat. Failure to do the needed prep to bring it up to specification, will result in a failure of the laminate to stay locked together.

2.) 2 days is a good acclimation time for laminate flooring. The longer the better, is a good rule to follow.

3.) Hmmm? Must be something fairly new. Can you describe this "key"??
What does it say about it in the instructions that came with the laminate. Rotating lock on both the ends and the lengths, can be installed piece by piece. I have never had a laminate, I had to install the whole row at once, with the ends engaged. A Kahrs wedge and taping brick, is the ticket. Without it, it is a fight sometimes.

Floordude · 06-04-2009, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gideond

Do not remove this. It sounds like a folding system. Most laminates require you to click a whole row together and then drop that row into the previous row. These end joints should allow you to install the laminate piece by piece instead of row by row. That clip locks the end joints since they fold together instead of locking like a traditional laminate would.

The actual term is a "rotating lock", instead of a "flat tap".

I have installed every style of locking joint mechanism(except pergo blue "key") LOL!!

I have never ever had to click a whole row together and drop it into the previous row. I can install any folding/rotating lock, one plank at a time. The Kahrs wedge and tapping brick are the ticket.

MeatBallDryWall · 06-04-2009, 08:45 PM

Thanks for the replies guys.

Quote:

What exactly are you trying to do? Do you just want to transition it here or are you trying to bring the floors level to each other before you install the laminate?

Well, the addition that was added is now a living room. It was built from a carport that was tied into the roofline. Where this addition & the old dining room meet(Was an outside door before) the opening is 69 inches across with 1 T molding installed to carpet. The tack strips were doubled at the end of 7/8 & I had no clue until carpet was removed. I'm not trying to level the 2 floors but just make a smooth transition between the 2. The T mold would not stay locked down & would keep popping loose. Do I need to level both floors or just fill best I can & keep going? Sorry for writing a damn novel & all help is greatly appreciated! BTW, how's the construction trade for flooring nowdays? DryWall is in the toilet. lol

I'll also get some pics of the "Blue Key Of DOOM" tomorrow & post em.

gideond · 06-05-2009, 06:09 AM

Okay a "rotating lock" then.

We haven't installed any of it yet. As for not having to install a whole row at a time, ever tried Shaw laminate. You have to tilt the stuff so steeply I don't see how you could possibly tap it. Quickstep on the other hand can easily be tapped in.

As for the transition, you may be better off having a custom transition made at a mill shop to fit the reduction better.

Floordude · 06-06-2009, 12:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gideond

You have to tilt the stuff so steeply I don't see how you could possibly tap it.

The Kahrs tapping block does not look like your regular tapping block. It is a heavy solid brick of composite plastic, about 10" long by 3" by 3"

While at the high angle and brick in hand just a little tapping as you rotate it down and your in.

TopFloor · 06-12-2009, 04:16 PM

I installed some of the 'Pergo Cottage' This week with the blue plastic tongue as described. Its design eliminates the need to engage the short end first. It makes the installation slightly quicker for a pro, but likely a great deal quicker for a novice.

Mike Costello · 06-12-2009, 08:55 PM

Oh jeeze. What have they done now.

I guess they figured the plain overlap wasnt working.

**Teetorbilt** · 06-12-2009, 09:46 PM

I haven't seen that one before and I just did a Pergo last last month.

I misplaced my flooring tools in a move and had to cut spacers from 1/4" plywood and made tapping blocks from some 3/4" oak. The spacers don't matter, my custom tapping blocks are really cool. 16"'s long. They DO get beat over time but are cheap to repair/replace.

TopFloor · 06-13-2009, 03:42 AM

I was able to find a scrap in my van and took some photos. The system employed to secure the end joints is called 'SecureLock'. The plastic tongue sits inside its own groove and functions in the same manner as the latch in a standard doorknob assembly. It locks into the end-groove of the adjacent plank which is lowered onto it.

It works very well. I installed 30 boxes and had only two joints give me trouble. For rip cuts the tongue may need to be taken out and cut with a knife so it doesn't get sent sailing by the saw blade. I did not have that happen, but it seems likely to occur.

Floordude · 06-17-2009, 08:27 AM

That is really new stuff. I have not seen that T&G design.

TopFloor · 07-03-2009, 03:07 AM

Well, I had another job installing this product. This time I made a video to show the process.

For novices this system will likely be easier to work with than typical locking-glueless laminates. Those of us who have been doing it regularly will not notice a dramatic change in the ease or length of the installation.

Personally, I could take it or leave it. In terms of engineering, it is a decent idea and is manufactured with amazing precision.

+ YouTube Video

Mike Costello · 07-03-2009, 06:48 AM

Pretty cool. Its very similar to their overlap on the narrow planks but instead of just sitting there the plastic catches it.

Thanks for the video .