Installing Hard Wood On Walls?

boo

I have a customer who wants 3/4" hard wood, random widths, installed on his walls in his garage. He wants it to run vertical. I will need to fur the walls horizontal so I can run the oak vertical. Has anyone ever done this? Will I need to use 1x4's or 2x4's? Should I screw the furring? He wants random widths. The widest is 8". All will be 10' long. Should I glue it? what kind of glue? Do I just nails the tongue on the 8" wide boards or will I have to face nail some? should I use my bostitch air floor stapler or can I just use finish gun? If anyone has ever done this, I would really appreciate some insight. thanks

Teetorbilt

I've never even heard of this being done, but if that's what the cust. wants...... What type of wall is this going against? I'm thinking that it is concrete or you could go directly to it. ??

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North Country

I would fur out with 1x3's 24" OC then use a 15 guage finish nailer into the tongue, trim top and bottom, your done. Furring can be nailed on with 2 1/4" R.S nails.

boo

what my concern is, I dont want the 8" boards cupping. That's why I think I need glue behind it and maybe some face nails? The garage is stick frame. 24'x45'

troubleseeker

There certainly is no harm caused by glueing, but let's face the facts here. If conditions are right, high moisture in wall, high moisture in board, flat sawn board(Almost a given with modern 8" board), humidity swings in room,etc, no amount of glue or nails will prevail over nature, wood will cup, warp, or bow.I would try to keep the wide boards to a minimum, apply a generous amount of top notch adhesive, and toe nail through the tongue only.

PrecisionFloors

Excellent advice, I agree whole heartedly

As a side note, I would not warranty a bit of it either.

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Teetorbilt

You might consider going ply first, think subfloor. Lots of adhesive and a disclaimer in the contract. Gets you more nails in the tongue edge. I'd use construction epoxies.

If you're dedicated to furring strips, I'd use 1 X 4's, 16" OC, two screws per stud and the epoxy adhesive.

8" boards can generate a lot of force.

__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

Albert Einstein

Steve Unkie

I doubt if the garage is heated, so you'll get alot of wood movement because of different moisture levels thru the seasons. I would tell the homeowner to expect gapped seams and some warpage in the future and then do as Teetorbilt suggested with the ply, glue and disclaimer.

Steve.

thom

Did a commercial job years back that used 2" finished oak strip floor on the walls. Sheathed with plywood then used the brad nailer through the tongues. Worked and looked great.

Teetorbilt

thom, 2" to 8" is a big jump when it comes to cupping, etc.

__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

Albert Einstein

boo

so, if I end up usuing plywood for a sub-wall, can I use 1/2" or does it need to be 5/8 or 3/4? or do you guys think furring will be enough.

Teetorbilt

1/2" nailed to EVERY stud will hold it, I'd go 10p or better, 12" OC or better. Furring, my way, will hold it as well. It's not cheap, but neither are flybacks.

__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

Albert Einstein

J&J Home Imp.

I did something similar once.Put up T&G pine in the same manor. I had to go over sheet rock so I glued the entire surface with Roberts Hardwood Glue and also nailed the tongue to hold it till the glue dried. Came out ok but next time I will cut out the sheetrock and do the furring strip and glue and nail that. I think you are on the right track with that.