How to question. - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

MinConst · 11-28-2007, 07:17 PM

I have this job I'm on. Rebuild a bay section that had small windows and half wall under the windows like a bench. Anyway the new windows open up the section to the floor and I am left with a section to add flooring to. The picture will explain better than I can I think. I need to know how to make a perfectly straight cut on the ends of the existing floor so I can run the new section in the other direction. I can make the cut with a circ saw but when I come to the walls is where I'm lost. Any recommendations?

user15686 · 11-28-2007, 07:24 PM

I would doublestick tape a straight edge to the floor thick enough that a top bearing flush cutting router bit could run on. You can get bout 4" fom the finished walls that way. Doing the last bit with a bit chucked in a laminate trimmer will get you about 2" away. The last little bit could be done either way easily with a back cut hand saw.

floorinstall · 11-28-2007, 08:59 PM

the way I do it is double stick the straight edge and cut the floor using a makita battery saw with a carbide 4" blade. the portion that is unreachable I score really deep with a razor knife, I mean score really deep. Then after the fibers are cut about 1/8 to 3/16 take a Sharpe chisel and cut the boards at a slight back angle so the the new floor butts to the scored line and the under cut allows the boards to butt up without a gap.

PrecisionFloors · 11-28-2007, 10:30 PM

Festool plunge cut saw and guide rail. I'd use my Supercut to finish off the ends. Then use a router with the correct slot cutter, spline and install as normal.

neolitic · 11-28-2007, 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PrecisionFloors

Festool plunge cut saw and guide rail. I'd use my Supercut to finish off the ends. Then use a router with the correct slot cutter, spline and install as normal.

Certainly the low cost solution!

J DoubleD FLoor · 11-28-2007, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by neolitic

Certainly the low cost solution!

May not be the low cost solution ... but definately the proper one ... to just butt the joints even with nailing the edges will result in the butt joints to eventually become uneven ... over time with the house settling and possibly the bay sagging ... precision's solution is the best but the biscuits n slot cutter would be a close second.

neolitic · 11-28-2007, 11:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J DoubleD FLoor

May not be the low cost solution ... but definately the proper one ... to just butt the joints even with nailing the edges will result in the butt joints to eventually become uneven ... over time with the house settling and possibly the bay sagging ... precision's solution is the best but the biscuits n slot cutter would be a close second.

Was mostly refering to the price of the Festool rig.

OP probably didn't have that kind of slop in his estimate

Figure that cutting the groove was a given.

PrecisionFloors · 11-28-2007, 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by neolitic

Certainly the low cost solution!

No, but if he bids it right the job will pay for that Festool setup and then he'll have it for the next one too

MinConst · 11-29-2007, 06:20 AM

Thanks for all the ideas guys I will mull them all over and figure out what works best for me. I don't have the Festool setup but it sure sounds like a nice investment.
I appreciate the help.

MattCoops · 11-29-2007, 09:03 PM

Sell the customer on a tile floor and break out your change order.

MinConst · 12-28-2007, 07:01 PM

This is what I did,
I double stick taped a piece of oak to the floor over blue tape so I could get it back up with no damage. Ran my trim router down three passes and it worked great. I finished the ends with a knife and chisel. The joint came out perfect. Although I did no biscuits I am concerned about it not staying even. But the customer is OK with this. The floor was only like 3/8" thick and I wouldn't feel comfortable putting a biscuit in it. Not true hard wood floor it was a laminated floor with wood top. We will see how it holds up.
Thanks again for the tips they really helped.

GoodHouse · 12-29-2007, 10:26 AM

Keep in mind. Sears sells a nice 3" circluar saw. Good for cutting in tight spaces and cuts deep enough for hardwood. You can also use a sawzall with a fresh blade near the wall if you already own those tools. A Fein multimaster and a sharp chisel can help you perfectly for the last couple of inches. A festool and rail guide will run you well over 1k.
Butting the wood to one another will be fine, jsut use a liberal amount of construction adhesive. Any of what I suggested will work fast cheap and easy if you have a site finished floor. Much harder with prefinished because you cant chip an edge.