Hickory Stair Treads

dokuhaku

My bread and butter for all these years has been the big box stores. I have encountered many staircases on these jobs and have great success in producing beautiful staircases with prefinished hardwood flooring. However, I have had few chances to work on projects involving solid treads.

This week I will be starting on the job pictured below. This is my plan:

The treads and risers are to match the hickory flooring (not shown) in the main room adjacent to this foyer. I plan to make rosin paper templates with the aid of a compass. These I will transfer to MDF templates, accounting for the overhang. After checking these on-site, I will manufacture the treads at the shop.
Esteemed members, I am calling upon your experience to shed light on the holes in my plan. How much time should it take. What would you charge for this project (6 curved/open, 6 pie, 6 box)? The bottom step is 8 feet at its longest point. Also, is anyone familiar with the characeristics of hickory?
Thank you in advance for your feedback. I am excited to get this assignment and am confident I will be successful. Still, I am not a Master and I am always open to suggestions.

Attached Thumbnails

     

Floordude

Hehehehe!!!


I will tell you, the bottom step alone, is going to run you almost $1000, all said and done.

__________________
**Education is the key to success. Learn more, earn more.**
http://www.AustinFloorguy.com

dokuhaku

That is my kind of money! Have you had any experience with hickory?

Floordude

Ya, it likes to splinter when you cut it.

__________________
**Education is the key to success. Learn more, earn more.**
http://www.AustinFloorguy.com

genecarp

Fun looking job, the risers, whats your plan? maybe 3 layers of 1/4'' hickory ply. also need to finish exposed side of riser....just looked at it again, your not bending 1/4'' around that first step, for that piece only you need a skin 1/16'' veneer.

__________________

genecarp

not much room for trim around that opening after the first step riser is installed, that floor tile is NOCE TRAVERTINE, I THINK, i always liked that stone....

__________________

dokuhaku

The riser is a little rough on that bottom step. I need to build it out a little for smoothness. I saw something recently called 'KerfCore' (?) that looked like a good solution. It is simply pre-kerfed risers in various thicknesses. I will go to the supplier tomorrow and price all of the wood. I really appreciate your insight, Gene. Thanks for taking the time.

dokuhaku

Stair production is underway. pictured is the beginning of what will be the bottom step.
Do not be afraid, it is only Plankenstein.

Attached Thumbnails

 

neolitic

Creative!

But I must say, I'm disappointed.
Clamps are tools.
You missed a perfectly good
excuse to buy tools!

__________________
Put your location in your profile!
(Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)

dokuhaku

Are you making fun of my ghetto clamps?

mrghm

i would be charging in the region of 15 to 20k to supply and install, finsh those stairs,

dokuhaku

Thanks for looking, mrghm.
15k? 20k?? I will be posting pictures by next week of the finished steps. I can not wait to see where the group rates my installation.

15-20k... nice.

dokuhaku

Thanks for looking, everybody. This is the perhaps the most demanding project I have undertaken. I welcome feedback from the community.
These are not yet installed. I was simply checking the fit. The 2nd step is bare, but the other two have a single coat of polyurethane (Dura Seal, Satin) each. I plan to do 2 coats before they are installed and a final coat after.

Attached Thumbnails

     

ChrWright

It's looking good.

Are your return ends radiused or straight?

What's your plan for the skirts? Will there be a cove mold under the noses of the treads?

I would use 3/8" bending ply for the starting riser, and then face it in place with a paper backed veneer.

You likely have to custom make the shoe as well.

__________________

Christopher Wright, CR: President @ WrightWorks, LLC/President @ Central Indiana NARI, Named to the 2010 REMODELING Big50
www.WrightWorks.net - Facebook - Twitter - Carmel Remodeling
Indianapolis Kitchen Remodeling Contractor - You Can Get There From Here

dokuhaku

Returns are radiused. That feature, though minor, is probably my favorite detail. Neither the GC nor the homeowner mentioned it while looking at the steps. I think it would have been all they could talk about if I had made them straight.

The GC said he had a plan for the skirt after I was finished. Honestly, I find the steps challenging enough. On the curved wall, the skirt would have been completely out of my league. Hopefully I will get the chance to work with someone on a similar situation one day.


The plan is to have a narrow trim run vertically, capping the end of each open riser. Aside from that, I do not plan to install a cove on the underside of the treads. What is your opinion?


All along I have been imagining a 1/4" ply with a hickory veneer. Because I have not encountered such curved risers before, I do not yet know how it will play out.
Can you elaborate on 'paper-backed veneer'? In my mind I imagined installing the 1/4" thick risers, then creating a paper pattern (?) for the veneer which would be installed with contact cement. What do you think?

ChrWright

Do a google search for paper backed veneer and you'll find a lot of good information on the sizes available and the best adhesives to use.

__________________

Christopher Wright, CR: President @ WrightWorks, LLC/President @ Central Indiana NARI, Named to the 2010 REMODELING Big50
www.WrightWorks.net - Facebook - Twitter - Carmel Remodeling
Indianapolis Kitchen Remodeling Contractor - You Can Get There From Here

neolitic

They sure are pretty.
I can't claim to be an expert, since the
bottom riser especially is far more radical
than anything I have done, but steamed
and bent solid wood is what seems right to me.
Hickory is a good steaming wood, but the most
I've done is for rocking chair parts.
Veneers on stair risers will look good, but
how long will it last?
Conversely, one could repair it over time.

__________________
Put your location in your profile!
(Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)

dokuhaku

You are correct. I am taking my time to make this look sweet and I do not intend to cut corners. I didn't think the cove would be necessary. Honestly, it always looks to me like the cove is hiding a gap between the tread and the riser.
So, the absence of the cove would make it look unfinished to you? huh... I guess I will rethink it. Thank you for taking the time to share your thoughts. This forum is really helpful.

dokuhaku

That is intriguing. I have never steamed wood, though I certainly get the idea. I suppose there would need to be a template (jig?) made for the wood to form to.
Hah! I just visualized installing a 12' long, steaming plank, drooping and dripping like a wood noodle. (A woodle? )
That would turn a few heads.

neolitic

Can't see any good way to run the skirt
against that wall after the treads
either.

__________________
Put your location in your profile!
(Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)