KellyPainting

Alright, I got a floor thats giving me problems.. small kitchen... and large living rm / dining rm L-shape... bid the job as kitchen sand poly 2 coats..
and scuff and 1 coat poly L-shaped floor.
We took the kitchen floor down to bare wood (there was no stain)
we then vacumed... tacked and rolled on a coat of benjamin moore oil poly with a candy striped roller.... scuffed the L-shaped floor and did the same.
The reason I used the Ben Moore was that I'm a painter and trust the quality of the product. We applied satin finish.
The Ben Moore stuff was like pudding.. even thicker... it left roller lines and ridges... along with small spots that look like fish eye's.. all over the floor... it did not level itself out like the can said.
We then rescuffed... and applied a second coat.... same thing happened.
We then went to another store and were told the Ben Moore stuff was crap... so we went with Zars... oil base satin.. stuff flowed great... just like water... it also leveled itself out perfect... but while I was rolling it (slowly..with the grain..without stopping from end to end) the roller... made by wooster for applying this exact type of product, left little bubbles everywhere.... I figured they would just level them self out..
Now the both floors have hundreds of little raised bubbles (not the kind that will pop) they are solid. kinda looks like a sex toy..if you know what I mean.... we waited 24 hours inbetween each coat. I'm planning on sanding the bubbles down and brushing the whole floor myself.. after waiting 3 days.. just to make sure it properly cures.

What the @#$% happened... this is causing me some cash now.....

J&J Home Imp.

Wish I could help ya out man. That is why I sub my finishing.

Taurus Flooring

Did you shake the can before applying it. If you did, it mostly is the cause, stir, don't shake

KellyPainting

nope... stirred gently with stick.

justin savage

Some finishes have anti foaming agents some of them dont. I am not familiar with zar, so I guess it doesnt. The poly has to have the anti foaming agent to be able to roll it and not get the bubbles. I am assuming you used the right roller , cleaned the floor etc. justin p.s. a little more info on technique, and layout, temp and conditions, how thick or thin you applied the poly,would help also.

KellyPainting

Thats exactly what it was..... my roller was trapping air underneath while I was rolling..... it was like I shock the can and applied it.
Thanks for the info!

Shoalsfugro

Here is a step list.

I like Duraseal or miniwax


resand to remove high spots.
Use lambs wool on flat instead of roller.
Use brush to cut edges
thin with 30% thinner for thin coats and flow.
turn air off to avoid dust.
lite scuff between coats and broom with towel with light thinner to remove dust.

Teetorbilt

What ever happend to the old hand and knees brush technique? You would have been done by now, no problems.

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JPhelps

The only problems I've ever had with bubbles in finish is when I lifted the applicator off of the floor, so now I dont' do that. My opinion is that you will have to sand/screen out all of the bubbles. When you go to spread the last coat, do just that spread it.....you need a lambs wool applicator, not a roller. Pour out the OMU directly on the floor(small amounts at a time till you get used to what you can work into a given area), and simply push(spread) it around on the floor without lifting up your lambs wool applicator. This way you don't get the sponge effect working air bubbles into your finish. And as always, stir not shake. Also be sure to keep your applicator packaged until ready to use, and I like to clean it with some tape(think lint remover) before I use it. I also have never tacked any of my floors, after I vacuum I wipe clean with mineral spirits and let that flash off(make sure you wear gloves and change your lint free rags frequently). Also OMU should flow out very well even with a few bubbles, check to make sure the area your in isn't too hot/dry--making it cure before it has a chance to flow. If its still a problem you could thin it ever so slightly to lengthen the cure time. Hope this helps--JP

PrecisionFloors

Use Bona water based on the next kob, you will not be dissapointed. You can apply is even after shaking a can and it comes out like glass (don't ask me how I know). I use it for all of my finish work on stairs treads and it is the easiest stuff to work with I have found yet.

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Precision Flooring
Hampton, VA (757) 256-0848
Tile, Hardwood, Laminate, and Resilients
Installation, Sales & Repair - "We do it right the FIRST time"

fast pasquale

not all finishes are rollable.... dura seal and minwax are NOT. Most Bona products are. Syenteko and Poloplaz finishes ARE rollable. You must read the lable or call the manufacturer. Let Ben Moore stick with paints. No professional uses their poly for floors. If you are gonna use dura seal... which is all i use... apply with lamby.. cut in edgers with a brush.

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Chris Frate
Pasquale Floors