Hardwood Flooring - First Go at It - Page 3 - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

DecksEtc · 02-04-2006, 11:20 PM

Well, guess what? I finally got started today!

With the help of my cousin (who has actually laid hardwood before), I was able to get all the carpet & under-pad up, all the new sub-floor down and 128 sq.ft. (I have a total of 300 sq. ft. to do). I must say it doesn't look too bad either

I ended up using the thick paper (the same as roofing paper, without the tar) under the flooring. I'm not sure if that qualifies as rosin paper but that's what I used. And, it was less messy than using the tar paper.

All in all it wasn't too bad to do. Although it takes quite a bit longer than laminate (I only had help up until the first 9 rows of hardwood), I prefer it way more then laminate. I doubt I'll ever use laminate again in my own home.

The only thing I would change as far as using hardwood in the future would be to use the wider planks. I prefer the look of the wider ones and I assume it would take much less time - the hardwood I am using is only 2 1/4" wide.

I am taking tomorrow off to drink beer and watch the big game! Go Seahawks!

DecksEtc · 02-05-2006, 08:13 AM

OMG, are the backs of my legs ever killing me this morning!

I managed to wake up parts of my body I didn't know existed...

Also, there seems to be muscles on my hands I didn't know I had either! I know they're there now because they hurt like #ell today!

Funny how I can lay deck boards all day long with no pain whatsoever.

DecksEtc · 02-06-2006, 09:51 PM

Well, I've got about 40 sq. ft. left to lay (couldn't work any later because of my tenants downstairs) and all is going well. I should finish in about an hour tomorrow because I've left all my tools out ready to go for the morning!

Anyway, I wanted to ask you guys what grit of sandpaper I should be using to sand it down before I finish it tomorrow afternoon? BTW, the flooring is white oak.

Hopefully, someone can give me an answer/advice tonight so I know what to get tomorrow morning...

TIA

ron schenker · 02-06-2006, 10:20 PM

Decks, you must have set some kind of record here. You have 4 posts in a row all by Decks etc.

DecksEtc · 02-06-2006, 10:47 PM

Ron, not rying for any record - LOL.

The first 3 were just basically updates for everyone interested.

The last one above was looking for advice, without starting a new thread.

Anyone???

drunkrussian · 02-06-2006, 11:04 PM

Do you have a sanding machine, and are you still staining it?

With the drum sander depending on the model, you can get away with 50, or 60, than 80

Edger 80, 100,

Hand work in the corners and other tight spaces,

buff with 120 hardplate if staining, 100 screen would be fine if not staining.

Watch out for scratches, and be prepared to hurt in even more places you never knew existed.

DecksEtc · 02-06-2006, 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drunkrussian

Do you have a sanding machine, and are you still staining it?

With the drum sander depending on the model, you can get away with 50, or 60, than 80

Edger 80, 100,

Hand work in the corners and other tight spaces,

buff with 120 hardplate if staining, 100 screen would be fine if not staining.

Watch out for scratches, and be prepared to hurt in even more places you never knew existed.

Thanks for replying.

No, to the sanding machine. Yes, to the staining. My GF wants it to be slightly darker than the colour of the clear BM poly I picked up.So, I'm going to stain before the poly. I know you'll call me crazy but I was going to use my random orbital sander to do it all. I was hoping to keep the dust down with this method...

drunkrussian · 02-07-2006, 12:00 AM

Crazy yes. The first cut with a drum or belt sander makes the floor flat, and just brings out the wood. I just have a hard time seeing someone not doing that. Even renting a crap machine like an EZ-8 for a few hours will be worth the money. Then use the orbital sander all you want. I would also suggest using a scraper. Your sanding a floor so dust will happen.

Also 1 last time, stain can and will bring out every scratch. If she only wants it slightly darker, will sanding sealer be dark enough for her?

My final word on this will be don't be suprised if it looks like crap. Not saying it will, but, there is a reason my flooring sanders cost a ton of money.

DecksEtc · 02-07-2006, 12:13 AM

I do have a belt sander (4" x 10")/ What grit sand paper should I use with it?

Then, what grit with the orbital sander?

I don't think the sanding sealer will be dark enough for what she wants for the floor. She wants the flooring to come close in colour to the existing stair handrails. I'll be going back to the BM store tomorrow to get the tinted stain she wants.

DecksEtc · 02-07-2006, 11:33 PM

Just a quick update. I went with renting a floor sander and did the final sanding with my orbital. Here are the progress pictures with the staining done. The poly goes on tomorrow.

drunkrussian · 02-08-2006, 10:20 PM

Very nice from above.

on renting a sander.

ron schenker · 02-08-2006, 10:26 PM

Looking good! Are all your muscles still sore?

DecksEtc · 02-09-2006, 12:13 AM

Thanks guys. The sander was a good call. As for my muscles, I've actually been able to work through the soreness by doing the sanding and finishing - LOL!

Aside from making the house look better for resale, I have learned a few things along the way. The next time I lay my own hardwood I want to try the pre-finished flooring and will definitely be going with wider boards - I like the look of wider boards plus it will be less staples

. As well, I think the wider boards look better.

The first coat of poly is on now too. Tomorrow I'm going to be painting the walls in the room then doing the final coats of poly. If all goes well we'll be able to put the house on the market next week. I'll PM you with the mls # if you're interested Ron.

DecksEtc · 02-10-2006, 03:11 PM

I just thought I would post some pictures of the finished product - before the room gets cluttered and filled with furniture.

I managed to squeeze in painting the walls too - getting ready to put the house on the market.

JimiB · 03-16-2006, 05:36 PM

Looks good!

I read that you put in new subfloor... did you have to r&r the old floor, or lay new on top of old? Just curious as to what the reasoning was.

I bet you'll get the bug to put wood in your new house. I know I did.

Regards,

Jimi

DecksEtc · 03-16-2006, 10:52 PM

Jimi,

The existing subfloor was less than 3 years old and only had carpet on it. I just added plywood to it up to the height I needed to get to. 1. we were trying to keep the costs down and 2. the existing was in good condition (I did add a lot more screws to it though)

As for the new house, it has hardwood throughout already but that doesn't mean we won't change some of it down the road. And, now that I've done hardwood flooring, I will NEVER use laminate in a house of mine. Hardwood all the way for me.

kandmenterprise · 10-05-2006, 12:41 PM

First, things must be alot more expensive in Canada, I pay around 2.39 sq.ft. for unfinished hardwood. Second I would not use staples on 3/4" material. you are running the risk of them pulling out. Remember wood expands and contracts with changes in temp and humidity. You want to have a strong enough connector to hold during changes. The change can be as much as 1/8", depending on your climate changes. As far as which way to run the wood it is personal preference, as long as your sub-floor is stable, Remember you are putting on alot of weight.Now to Polyurethane, I always use minwax but that is a personal preference based on 11+ years of experience. Remember to lightly sand the wood before sealing it, and lightly sand between coats(I use a 180 grit between coats). Also make sure that you apply an even coat of poly, you don't want ripples in the finish. If you have any other questions please feel free to e-mail me at kandmenterprise1@yahoo.com. Hardwood flooring is my passion and I will be more than happy to assist you.Have a nice day and good luck.