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#1 |
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Registered User
Trade: Contractor/Finisher
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 5
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Floor Underlayment
I am doing a floor remodeling job that has linoleum/Particleboard/CDX 1/2, and i am moving a few walls, do i have to tear out all the particleboard and start over or what? or can i just patch it and go over with 3/8 underlayment
PS: the last time i used 1/4 underlayment i had a big bubble in the middle of the floor. do you use special staples or what? i used 1/4 X 1-1/4 Bostich staples. Any help will be appreciated Thanks Glenn
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#2 |
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Flooring Guru
Trade: Sales Manager
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Anchorage, AK
Posts: 2,797
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Re: Floor Underlayment
you can patch and go over with 1/4 or more plywood if your installing new Vinyl.
My installers use diversion staples.
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------------------------ "in 20 years you will regret more what you did not do than what you did" |
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#3 |
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Registered User
Trade: FLOORCOVERING
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 7
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Re: Floor Underlayment
I Would Patch It If You Can. When Ever You Do 1/4 Inch Underlayement You Should Try To Nail From The Center Of The Board Out. I Use 7/8 Duofast Staples Slightly Ring Shanked.
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#4 |
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TURNER FLOORING
Trade: Floor installation
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Keller texas
Posts: 41
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Re: Floor Underlayment
I would install masonite over it. It's a better material for the the price for a quick and easy sub -floor fix. And liquid nail under neath and use screws for hardibacker applications. Use hardibacker for ceramic installation. If it's vinyl or carpet then masonite works and it's smoother and thinner.http://turnerflooring2.com/
Last edited by turner flooring; 02-04-2007 at 06:33 PM. Reason: addition to |
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#5 | |
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Registered User
Trade: Contractor/Finisher
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 5
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Re: Floor UnderlaymentQuote:
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#6 |
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Member
Trade: Remodeling and Custom Decks
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 55
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Re: Floor Underlayment
I'd patch and add a new layer of particle board if you are putting down vinyl, hardi backer if tile, and no second layer if you are using wood laminate or carpet.
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#7 | |
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"da Whale don't hesitate"
Trade: Hard Surface Flooring
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: South Florida
Posts: 2,341
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Re: Floor UnderlaymentQuote:
Also you should use glue coated divergent point staples. Length will be determined by whats under it. You do not want the staple penetrating the assembly into the joists. On another note...Liquid Nail under Hardi Backer???? Dude, do some research please before you end up tasting alot of tile. Thinset goes under CBU.
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Precision Flooring (772) 237-9900 Tile, Hardwood, Laminate, and Resilient Installation, Sales & Repair - "We do it right the FIRST time" Last edited by PrecisionFloors; 02-10-2007 at 10:21 PM. |
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#8 |
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Member
Trade: Remodeling and Custom Decks
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 55
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Re: Floor Underlayment
I use 1-1/4 galvanized sheeting staples. They hold great and go down fast. Three years ago I did all the underlayment (1/2" particle board) in a 110 lot subdivision. Not one call back that wasn't from water.
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#9 | |
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TURNER FLOORING
Trade: Floor installation
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Keller texas
Posts: 41
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Re: Floor UnderlaymentQuote:
You actually know some of the basic strategies of the flooring business. But if you read what he was asking help with; you would think twice about using thinset. That's a water based product on top of particle wood. It swells llike a fat man in a rainstorm. And masonite isn't what you would use on a job of adequate size by any means. No it's not recommended for use under ceramic. Under vinyl it's fine. In a small area it's logical. Your right don't use it under ceramic. I'll give you that. Although I never read where he was gonna install ceramic anyhow. But i'm getting older and my eyes are bad(i guess). While we run to HOME DEPOT IN Virginia i'll be sending a few of my guys to get the simplest things I need in DALLAS/FT WORTH. To finish little jobs of this nature with easy to find materials that will work and have worked many thousands of little jobs before. Remember this guy is not a floor guy or a flooring professional. So basically, he probably isn't the best at smoothing a floor out. With masonite he could just prep the joints and he has a smooth floor. Again if it's a small area and if he's installing vinyl. My research has been done by installing all the large jobs this metroplex has in both cities. For instance, any large hospital in Dallas or Ft.worth. I or my crews have touched or finished. I could list pages from here to next year of jobs larger than most can imagine being on. When it comes to small jobs and direction helping others in the flooring industry. We both can waste alot of time recommending how or why. The overall result is the same. Getting the job done and collecting the check, walking away knowing it will work.And last...Remember when your doing houses or installing small jobs. You have to make money so time is a key factor. Don''t send yourself to Home Depot all the time just because of a manufacturer's recommendation. Because if that's the case, you would also need to put a moisture test down and wait for the results before you could even install most flooring. Per suggested manufacturer's lists of things that need to happen. Argue with a manufacturer over small amounts of flooring is just a waste of everybody's time and you normally lose in the residential side from an installers stand point. Large amounts of flooring you would take every step in making sure you are right in a manufacturer's world.. In our world, sometimes it's not everything that's recommended but what works and lasts...
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http://TURNERFLOORING2.com http://www.TURNERFLOORING.com/ Flooring the world over... |
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