Dirt in Finish - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

banctecbobn · 08-18-2008, 10:04 PM

Just can't seem to keep dirt, dust, crap out of the finish on the hardwood flooring.

The finish looks pretty good but not perfect.

Is it possible to let the finish dry for a couple weeks then go back and lightly sand the finish then wax or buff??????

The finish is satin. I'm looking for any suggestions.

Cdat · 08-19-2008, 06:53 PM

Water based or oil? Where is the area you're looking to buff out? The whole thing or just a section? You'll get a better finish if you basically seal off the room from any moving air currents.

Ever see those guys buff a car until it looks like a mirror? Ever use a high speed polisher?

Snow Man · 08-19-2008, 07:11 PM

Are you sure it is not RAISED GRAIN??? Vacuumed enough ? Cross ventilation ? A humid or rainy day is great for no dust, but not very good for drying. Absolutely , go over it with a fine 3m grit pad buffer. Re-do.

Just my two cents

banctecbobn · 08-19-2008, 10:02 PM

Used oil base clear satin poly. Have a certain amount of dust/dirt thru out entire floor. It's not real bad but bad enough I want to correct. The area is too big to seal off, hardwood covers most of the first floor and ceiling runs up to second floor. Part of my problem is construction going on in other parts of the house. I'm not wanting a shiny finish, just satin.

I feel if I just refinish I'll end up with the same as now. Can I just lightly sand and buff? Will this produce a shine or will the finish stay satin? Never buffed a satin finish before.

Snow Man · 08-19-2008, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by banctecbobn

Used oil base clear satin poly. Have a certain amount of dust/dirt thru out entire floor. It's not real bad but bad enough I want to correct. The area is too big to seal off, hardwood covers most of the first floor and ceiling runs up to second floor. Part of my problem is construction going on in other parts of the house. I'm not wanting a shiny finish, just satin.

I feel if I just refinish I'll end up with the same as now. Can I just lightly sand and buff? Will this produce a shine or will the finish stay satin? Never buffed a satin finish before.

There is where the problem lies. construction going on during your fine finish. It should be the last task at hand along with painting.
But I know what yer gonna say " deadline friday" ok ok ok.

Yes , absolutely like I said b-4, buff (scuff grit out, VACUUM ,damp mop, kick the termites off the job , and getrdone

OCRS · 08-19-2008, 11:04 PM

Vents

Snow Man · 08-19-2008, 11:45 PM

Obviously , if there is central or forced air blowing on yer work , you
De-Vent the area. lmao

tool junkie · 08-19-2008, 11:52 PM

Your finish will be as good as the time you put into it. I get a perfect finish every time. It’s a pain staking process but its what has to happen to get a professional result. Airborne dust is the enemy of a good finish. Most of the work in a good finish is in prepping. Here are some pain in the ass rules…

Rule #1
There can be no other construction going on in the house. Its inconvenient but hey that’s just the way it goes. So do you want convenience or do you want a professional finish? You can’t have both, sorry. Airborne particles will find their way into any newly applied finish. When doing any remodeling projects, floor finishing should be scheduled at the very end then kick everyone the F out.

Rule #2
Every surface must be vacuumed then dusted (even the walls) then vacuumed again. Then get your crew in there on their hands and knees with tack cloths to do the entire floor no matter how long it takes (hopefully you allotted for this time in your bid). You will be surprised what you continue to get up even after vacuuming. If you have the budget rent a dust collector. Turn off the AC or Furnace. At this point you have to treat the entire area like a sterile atmosphere. Everyone wears painters coveralls, booties or bare feet (cotton socks leave lint), and a hair net. If you need to go outside, DONT forget to take the booties off INSIDE and put them back on going in again.

Rule #3
No matter how big the area is, it HAS to be sealed off. This is not an option. No area is TOO big.

Rule #4
Kick everyone out and minimize the crew to two people for spreading the finish.

Rule #5
Use two part polyurethane, anything else is crap. I like Bona but there are other brands.

Rule #6
Put on a respirator and get ready to sweat and be very uncomfortable cause you have to keep the area sealed. Discomfort = good finish. If you dont care about your brain cells then dont use the respirator.

Rule #7
Put down a one coat of primer sealer then finish with two coats of Poly.

Rule #8
Keep the area sealed during and after the process is complete and the final coat is hardened.
-------------

As for what to do to fix the current problem... light sand, buff, then recoat using the rules for a professional finish.

Snow Man · 08-20-2008, 01:11 AM

Very impressive ! Now get some rest.

**genecarp** · 08-20-2008, 05:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tool junkie

Your finish will be as good as the time you put into it. I get a perfect finish every time. It’s a pain staking process but its what has to happen to get a professional result. Airborne dust is the enemy of a good finish. Most of the work in a good finish is in prepping. Here are some pain in the ass rules…

Rule #1
There can be no other construction going on in the house. Its inconvenient but hey that’s just the way it goes. So do you want convenience or do you want a professional finish? You can’t have both, sorry. Airborne particles will find their way into any newly applied finish. When doing any remodeling projects, floor finishing should be scheduled at the very end then kick everyone the F out.

Rule #2
Every surface must be vacuumed then dusted (even the walls) then vacuumed again. Then get your crew in there on their hands and knees with tack cloths to do the entire floor no matter how long it takes (hopefully you allotted for this time in your bid). You will be surprised what you continue to get up even after vacuuming. If you have the budget rent a dust collector. Turn off the AC or Furnace. At this point you have to treat the entire area like a sterile atmosphere. Everyone wears painters coveralls, booties or bare feet (cotton socks leave lint), and a hair net. If you need to go outside, DONT forget to take the booties off INSIDE and put them back on going in again.

Rule #3
No matter how big the area is, it HAS to be sealed off. This is not an option. No area is TOO big.

Rule #4
Kick everyone out and minimize the crew to two people for spreading the finish.

Rule #5
Use two part polyurethane, anything else is crap. I like Bona but there are other brands.

Rule #6
Put on a respirator and get ready to sweat and be very uncomfortable cause you have to keep the area sealed. Discomfort = good finish. If you dont care about your brain cells then dont use the respirator.

Rule #7
Put down a one coat of primer sealer then finish with two coats of Poly.

Rule #8
Keep the area sealed during and after the process is complete and the final coat is hardened.
-------------

As for what to do to fix the current problem... light sand, buff, then recoat using the rules for a professional finish.

exactly

banctecbobn · 08-20-2008, 07:53 AM

Nobody knows of a fix/repair......just a complete redo??????

Snow Man · 08-20-2008, 08:21 AM

If the whole floor is contaminated , sure , RE-DO

tool junkie · 08-20-2008, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by banctecbobn

Nobody knows of a fix/repair......just a complete redo??????

Bro the problem is that if you try to spot fix it is almost impossible to blend the spot work in. At first it might pass but soon the HO will be calling about the splotches in the finish. Try a test in an inconspicuous place like a closet or in the laundry space. I know it sucks to recoat the entire area at $55/gal but it is the only way to get a continuous even finish.

PrecisionFloors · 08-20-2008, 02:23 PM

You seem damned determined to try and find an easy fix.

It doesn't exist. If the finish is unacceptable to you and you are going to be picky, then you must deal with the consequences and re-finish it. Or learn to accept a floor finish on a floor, and not expect a furniture finish on a floor. You can't be ultra picky and at the same time look for easy......it doesn't work that way.

Cdat · 08-20-2008, 03:52 PM

Might I suggest you take a class on wood floor finishing? It'd help out quite a bit and they are usually only a few days to help teach you a good method to work with. Experience will be the ultimate factor on a great looking finish but someone else showing you some different methods never hurt nobody.

OCRS · 08-20-2008, 04:07 PM

Banctecbobn, what exactly is your trade?

Controlling dust is a no brainer in hardwood refinishing, yet you've decided to refinish while, seemingly, major construction is still underway.

Tool Junkie was gracious enough to teach you how it should be done, but as a professional you should have known all this. Could this be work on your own house?

banctecbobn · 09-01-2008, 10:28 PM

The floor looks great now....good enough that it meets my standard. No, I didn't refinish, there was a fix.

Wish some of you would carefully read post and respond to the actual questions being presented.

Powell · 09-09-2008, 06:18 PM

Yah you don't need to refinish the whole floor. good you got it where you want it

hayleymench · 09-19-2008, 05:19 PM

I'm curious to know what method ended up working for you, if you would be so kind to share. Thanks