Cutting Old Wood Floor

lizzydog

What is the best tool to cut old wood flooring even with
baseboard? Not just a few pieces, 14x14 room.

Thanks,
lizzydog

J DoubleD FLoor

What to you mean .... even with the baseboard? and why are you needing it cut, most of us will need a further explaination

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lizzydog

I want to replace an old hardwood floor. I want to cut along the bottom edge of the baseboard. I do not want to remove the baseboard.

J DoubleD FLoor

it's going to be just as much work cutting arround it than just removing it ... and you will end up with a better install with removing the base and tearing up the flooring. I really wouldn't suggest leaving the base on unless you just installed over top of the existing flooring ... but i don't even suggest doing that. Do it right and you won't have problems.

Remove base carefully
Tearup old flooring
prep the floor if needed
make any undercuts in doorways if needed
Properly install your new floor
re-install your base

Gl with it.

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415moto

I second that, although I'd add that if I was replacing the floor, id put in new base as well.

If that aint an option, run a saw around the room at the correct depth, remove the floor in whole strips then tackle the perimeter with a wonder bar/pry bar. 14'x14' aint that big.

PrecisionFloors

Toe-kick saw is what you'd wanna use...like this:

http://www.craintools.com/fs-specialtysaws.html

Which can be purchased here:

http://www.tools4flooring.com/crain-...saw-p-280.html

It will not get into corners, however, so you will still need a sharp chisel for that. I own one and use it for just the problem you are trying to solve. While everyone would love to just tear out evrything and replace it with new, sometimes the circumstances don't allow for that. What if the base is in great shape already and the H.O. doesn't want to have to pay for something that shouldn't need to be replaced....I can offer the solution, while your not willing to. Just a thought guys

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Teetorbilt

Another reason you might need that saw. On a lot of older homes the flooring was put down prior to installing the walls and sometimes there is nothing underneath it. Many years ago an old geezer told me that plaster ceilings were first put in to catch the dust that sifted through the upstairs floorboards. True? I don't know but it sounds logical.

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ron schenker

Hey Teetor, how old does one have to be to qualify for "old geezer" status

Are you there yet

__________________
Don't worry, the baseboard will hide it!

Teetorbilt

The guy that told me this was well into his 80's in the late '60's. That would put his BD around 1880-85. This info could have been passed along by his father or grandfather, they were all builders.

Funny sidenote: We called they guy Al Capone because he claimed to drive booze for him in Chicago during Prohibition. One day Dad overheard us laughing about Al's latest story and goofing on him. He stepped up to the plate and informed us that Capone had thousands of drivers and there was no reason that he couldn't have been one of them. Shut us up pretty well.

__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

Albert Einstein

ron schenker

So I guess you'll be an old geezer in less than 10 years

Sorry Teetor, but ever since I turned 50 I've started making fun of people older than me. I guess it makes me feel younger...in a sick demented way

__________________
Don't worry, the baseboard will hide it!

Teetorbilt

You will have to change your ways in a while. My grandfather had to start picking on the younger guys again when he was in his late '80's, there were no 'older guys' left!

__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

Albert Einstein

lizzydog

Thanks for the information. Teetor this house was built in 1924 and the floor was installed before the walls.

lizzydog

Teetorbilt

That stands to reason. So called 'modern' construction didn't start until after WWII.

Do you know if there is a subfloor? There is a good chance that you could pick this one up and be staring at joists. You may want to drill a hole in the corner of a closet to find out.

__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

Albert Einstein

J DoubleD FLoor

I wasn't suggesting replacing with new base, just remove and re install. Yes some homes had the floors put in first, but 9 times out of 10 they don't have any subflooring. I hope you don't run into any problems and gl with it.

Teetor you are an old Geezer.... hehe I'm young enough to call ya that, you know since I'm one of the young pups here

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Quality is not expensive ... It's PRICELESS !!!
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lizzydog

Teetor--It has a subfloor 3/4 or 1" run diagionaly. The problem was caused by improper flashing around a large chimney. Roof was put on 5 years ago. During this time water has been flowing down chimney and wicking through the framing , floor joist and flooring. One reason for not removing baseboard. It is full 8" heart pine nailed to solid 1x4 tounge and grove wall. when drywall was installed it was 1/4 set on top of baseboard. Dont want any drywall repaires.

415moto

Ahh some nice stuff to think about putting in the tool box.

My personal preference is all new, I try to avoid piecework. Update it at once so everything can be done efficiently. We almost always do total tearouts, and start new. I can't stand one thing old, but 3 things new like saving old carpet but having brand new everything else. Thats just me though.
Its alot easier to do it at once, rather than to try and go back later and do certain things.
For example a kitchen. Id push for updating the electric and say insulation, plumbing and windows in the wall among others things in a remodel and keep the older dishwasher and fridge if you dont have the budget. Those can be easy replacements later. But going back into the walls or floor after new coverings are in place is much more $$ down the road.

Ive reused base before and to me its not always worth it. Usually its not in great condition to begin with and a similar amount of labor goes back into it. Nailing, caulking, filling, painting. And at the end of the day 30 year old base with 4 layers of paint and worn miter edges doesnt look all that great reused. If it was some classic period trim that was vital to a homes style, then I can see trying to save it if a similar or exact profile couldnt be procured. Or in lizzydog's position trying to avoid damaging the walls and more work. I know we cant always do that, but one can wish.

dsnAK

I'd buy the Fein Multimaster and use an ESAW blade - about the same price as the Crain but does a whole LOT more!!! Yeah I know the 14x14 room would take awhile with the Fein but once your done you have a very versital tool that you'll use every day...

PrecisionFloors

I don't know about you but my time is worth ALOT....the time difference between using a Multmaster and the toe-kick saw would pay me enough to own both .....but then again...I'm a tool whore so I will use any excuse to feed my habit

I will agree that the Fein is a much more versatile tool though

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lizzydog

Old hardwood floor and subfloor is out. Looking at floor joyces. The Craine Toe kick saw worked like a charm. Every thing is flush with base board just like I wanted it. I am going to use 3/4" tounge and groove
plywood for new subfloor. Since this is not going under walls, how much space should I leave for expansion, every thing will be screwed down. Should I fill the expansion space with caulk? New floor will be 1x6
tounge and groove. How much expansion should I leave for it and should I fill it?