Base Trim! Before Or After Floor Tile?

Cole

Guys, I am curious.

What do you install first and why?

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works4me

I'm not a full time floor guy, but I've done some tile. Always base above for me, I don't think I've ever even seen the base first way. reasons: Tiles at edge don't need ot be cut the exact same to edge (some can be 1/16" or 3/8" as long as the base covers, no one will know). Qicker and easier in IMO also. Plus I would hate to be the guy to have to replace or work on the base in the future if it was trapped in by a layer of grout. Curiious what others might say though.

Cole

I am the exact same way, base after tile for me.

But you will be surprised.

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wizendwizard

Base after tile.....can't think of any good reason for Tile after base.

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bujaly

I agree with the point of base being trapped and I also do not tile or do flooring FT.

I like to rip all base out, PERIOD (with 1 exception)!! The main reason, I hate the way shoe and quarter round molding looks against tile. I believe that those types of base are meant to match against wood flooring or something that is similar. Also, if you tile up against old base molding, it looks "OOKKAAYY". BUT, if you put new base after the tile is set, it makes the entire floor to ceiling look cleaner.
Now, I usually tile bathroom floors, but I have tiled a few rooms that have had a entry way into another room without a door and it's impossible to match the new base with the old, on style alone, but with the 1/4" height difference also. It would be idiotic to try and rip all of your new base to bring your new down to the old height, so in this instance, i just tile up to old. (IF ANYONE HAS A BETTER WAY, PLEASE DO TELL)...

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Chris Johnson

Quarter round covers a multitude of sins...so if someone puts the base in and the tile guy (or hardwood) get close to it, cover it with 1/4 round...only us professionals know that you are hiding a mistake

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Mike Finley

You can get forced into it when there is no stopping point between a carpeted and a tiled room. Such as when a bathroom and a bedroom have no door but just an opening between them.

ODDBALLS

I see how that could happen. I've gotten around that by having tile as the trim/backsplash/kickboard/whatever you want to call it, and cutting the tile at an angle to meet the existing trim. No complaints so far. After always in my opinion. Plus I include in my price tile trim/backsplash/kickboard/whatever.

Not trying to jack thread, but do other tile guys do that? Include in the price or use tile as the trim. If so how big do you make it. I do 12x12=3" trim, 16x16=3.5", 18x18=4", any bigger gets 4.5"

P.S. Cole, love the avatar.

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neolitic

Agreed!

About the base.
Always base over tile.
When the tile comes out higher than hardwood or carpet,
I put a return on the end and "die" the old/lower base into that.
Sometimes have to sweat a bit to make it come out
but worth it to me.
Have done similar when profiles in a new room don't quite
match existing.
Hold new up a bit, make return for existing to die in to,
and use shoe or ¼ round to make up gap below.

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bujaly

That's what I had stated. There is no getting around that is there?

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neolitic

Mitch?

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wizendwizard

I see your point Mike! Thats why we make returns. I'd rather have that dead area,than have buried base. I always show the problem to the HO and show them the options and find out what they would rather have.Especially since i am the one that usually gets called back in to change things out when the HO wants something new.

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"If you start the grout process over, you too could use sparkly grout!"
There is no such thing as an illegal immigrant, they are either illegal or immigrants.
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neolitic

If it's arranged right the transition strip will usually cover the gap.

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wizendwizard

Back curl the carpet into transition and lead into marble. I may be wrong but thats how i was taught. Just have to make sure your base and return are squared from carpet to tile for asthetics. People do things differently. Anyone have other ways of transitioning that gap.

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There is no such thing as an illegal immigrant, they are either illegal or immigrants.
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kevjob

I remodel so the base is always installed after tile and all casing if installed get undercut, cleaner look I think.

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Mike Finley

Yeah, sometimes you can undercut the base that will sit on the tile. Sometimes the circumstances don't allow. Every situation is different. Sometimes we will drywall a bump out on the wall in an open doorway about 3/4 inch thich about 6 inches wide or wider (depends on the layout) and run that up to the ceiling or top of opening (on some of those big openings we also drywall in a wall a the top and an arched opening). That gives you a place for the bathroom base to butt against and the bedroom base to butt against. (this works good in newer homes where this drywall thing fits in with the rest of the houses looks)

I've never butted two different bases with returns.

neolitic

Not talking about ranch to colonial,
more like the times when it's just "almost" the same.
32nd thinner or same profile 10 years later.
I'd do almost anything before I'd bury it.
1st time I tried this was addition to meet old trim
with "mop board" 1X and base cap.
It beat milling 5/4 stock down to 7/8 and
having knives cut to get a perfect match on the base cap.
Or ripping out some more really nice 100 year old fir trim.
Not every one's cup o' tea
but I prefer Jameson anywho.

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bujaly

Yes...

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Teetorbilt

Tiling to base is always a no-no. It creates a pocket for water (from mopping or spills) to accumulate. The base will eventually rot or disintegrate (MFD).

Tile, grout to the wall, seal and install base, caulk. Prime and paint base, all sides' prior to installation.

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reveivl

I agree with Teetor, and others, on this, except for the "grout to the wall" part. Leave a gap between tile and wall covered by the base or you could wind up with 'tenting' of the tile.

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