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09-25-2007, 11:41 AM
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#1
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New Guy
Trade:
hardwood flooring
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 19
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Anyone use a Floor Blower to dry Layex Poly?
Been using a lot of laytex poly on jobs recently. Since NY forced oil voc to change to 350 this summer, I just got sick of coats looking like crap.
Plus, I like the idea of knocking out small jobs with three coats in 1 day. However, when my guys are sitting around for 1 1/2 - 2 hrs with their feet up while the poly dries, I get a bit antsy.
We have been using fans, but they dont really seem to help all that much.
Does anyone use the larger commercial blowers like these one to speed up dry time?
Last edited by brianosaur; 09-25-2007 at 11:51 AM.
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09-25-2007, 04:31 PM
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#2
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Pro
Trade:
Commercial Flooring
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 102
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I don't do hardwood, but we use those blowers on everything, drying adhesives, patch, primer, etc. The problem I could see you having, is these blowers move alot of air, which can result in alot of dust/dirt flying around. When we put the blowers on, with something like primer, you can also see that it does cause movement of it (the primer) during the drying process.
Quote:
Originally Posted by brianosaur
Been using a lot of laytex poly on jobs recently. Since NY forced oil voc to change to 350 this summer, I just got sick of coats looking like crap.
Plus, I like the idea of knocking out small jobs with three coats in 1 day. However, when my guys are sitting around for 1 1/2 - 2 hrs with their feet up while the poly dries, I get a bit antsy.
We have been using fans, but they dont really seem to help all that much.
Does anyone use the larger commercial blowers like these one to speed up dry time?
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09-25-2007, 06:25 PM
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#3
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Cpt. Chaos
Trade:
Hard Surface Flooring
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Hampton, VA
Posts: 992
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I will agree with Demon on this one. Another thing to think about is those types of blowers move a ton of air but it is in a pretty concentrated area....if you have ever used one for drying patch you know what I mean. You have to move the damn thing around 20 times to dry a 12X12 kitchen. I would think that may cause some finish issues.
__________________
Precision Flooring
Hampton, VA (757) 256-0848
Tile, Hardwood, Laminate, and Resilients
Installation, Sales & Repair - "We do it right the FIRST time"
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09-25-2007, 06:45 PM
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#4
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Curmudgeon
Trade:
carpentry/remodeling/"Yes M'am we do"
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Beech Grove, Indiana, Birthplace of the "King of Cool"
Posts: 10,148
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I'm no finisher--don't even play one on tv--but I think the only thing that you can do to help is humidity and some air movement. Other than that, in your case I think you've just got to figure that time into the job and relax (maybe the guys are thinking about new and improved ways of making you more money in that down time  ). 2 hours is better than 24, and some things just take as long as they take. Last winter I put first coat of poly on about 200' of base, had it all spread out on temp racks in the garage, set the heater on low, and went out to pick up some hardware and towel bars, etc while it dried for 2nd coat. Partner comes along, decides to help and sets ole sally up to "core-temp-of-sun" setting. I come back garage is @ 120º and full of alligator textured base boards
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09-25-2007, 07:05 PM
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#5
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Knowledge Factory
Trade:
Certified Floorcovering Failure Investigator
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 1,289
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Force drying poly is a recipe for a finish disaster. Adhesives & patching compounds, too.
As the top heals, it causes the finished product to be soft, also causing adhesion, concerns, and trapped bubbles. Also an inconsistent sheen and the possibility of poly beads at the gaps. And it a good way to have a lot of trash in your floor. With waterbased, you don't have to worry so much about cratering, or fisheyes
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09-25-2007, 07:23 PM
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#6
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New Guy
Trade:
hardwood flooring
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Floordude
Force drying poly is a recipe for a finish disaster. Adhesives & patching compounds, too.
As the top heals, it causes the finished product to be soft, also causing adhesion, concerns, and trapped bubbles. Also an inconsistent sheen and the possibility of poly beads at the gaps. And it a good way to have a lot of trash in your floor. With waterbased, you don't have to worry so much about cratering, or fisheyes
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Well I was only thinking about the 1st two coats. You do screen right? With the last one we'd be gone and let it dry normally. Fans do help. Even ceiling fans help. I never have had a problem with them. I was concerned about a blower with a large cfm causing ripples if its too close. Plus H20 applied with a pad is so darn thin it really doesnt have time to skin. It aint oil.
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09-25-2007, 09:22 PM
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#7
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Pro
Trade:
Commercial Flooring
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 102
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I agree with you on using an air mover on a finish coat for a hardwood floor, why i basically replied in that manner. I would like to Know why you think it is bad for adhesives and patch. If you think about it, drying/set/cure times for things are generally dependant on the actual conditions outside and inside the work area. Do you have the customer shut off all AC units and heat sources and open all of their windows? If it is a dry day and things set fast it is okay, but if not you just patch up the floor and go back the next day?
If you have to do 10-15k SF of VCT over (existing) cutback adhesive (that you have to flash) in the middle of July, and you don't use blowers, you must have some very slow workers, no deadline, and a generous customer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Floordude
Force drying poly is a recipe for a finish disaster. Adhesives & patching compounds, too.
As the top heals, it causes the finished product to be soft, also causing adhesion, concerns, and trapped bubbles. Also an inconsistent sheen and the possibility of poly beads at the gaps. And it a good way to have a lot of trash in your floor. With waterbased, you don't have to worry so much about cratering, or fisheyes
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