Acclimation Trouble... This is beating me up. - Page 2 - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

fixitpete · 05-06-2009, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by neolitic

Could you do a genuine continuous
vapor barrier on the bottom of the joist?
Tidally flooded crawls are not
part of my universe, but damp insulation
in the joist bays can not be good.
Out of the box is the way to go IMO.

I have researching the barrier on the underside of the joists. I *think* that you'll end up with condensation unless you re-insulate (sprayed foam (?) the joists...

But I'm not sure... I'll hope somebody else chimes in on this.

Agreed, that left over crap has got to go... right away. I'll keep eliminating variables until the gap in readings gets as close as possible...

Floordude · 05-10-2009, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fixitpete

I have researching the barrier on the underside of the joists. I *think* that you'll end up with condensation unless you re-insulate (sprayed foam (?) the joists...

Ever wonder why the bottom of mobile homes, trailers and manufactured homes, have under pinning, attached to the bottom of the floor joists??

It works.

Your scenario above could be said for wall studs in an exterior wall.

mrwoodman · 05-21-2009, 10:25 PM

At least your going with a harder wood! Braz. Cherry has a tighter grain and may not expand and contract as rapid. Yes, I would remove from cartons and rack it out to acclimate as long as you can. Standard woodfloors in the Midwest for 72 hours and harder wood in your case, keep testing the moisture every couple of days until it max's out. Let the moisture barrier run up the walls a couple of inches and cover with the base on completion. I agree that rift & quartered woodflooring in your region would be the best, what you got there is good.

That's my 2cents
Ron T

fixitpete · 05-24-2009, 11:06 PM

Thanks man! I appreciate it...

Pete

naptown CR · 05-25-2009, 12:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Floordude

Ever wonder why the bottom of mobile homes, trailers and manufactured homes, have under pinning, attached to the bottom of the floor joists??

It works.

Your scenario above could be said for wall studs in an exterior wall.

This would be a vermin barrier not underpinning which refers to the support of foundations. And it is not a vapor barrier as it would be on the wrong side of the insulation and cause condensation in the insulation and reduce it's efficiency and create possible rot problems.

Floordude · 05-26-2009, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by naptown CR

This would be a vermin barrier not underpinning which refers to the support of foundations. And it is not a vapor barrier as it would be on the wrong side of the insulation and cause condensation in the insulation and reduce it's efficiency and create possible rot problems.

Just like the studs in the walls will rot under the same conditions, right?

Most of the trailers I have had to crawl under in my lifetime were underpinned with 8-10 mil poly, sealed at the seams. Then skirting installed without any vents.

Condensation is going to depend on the dew point on the interior side of the plastic.

naptown CR · 05-26-2009, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Floordude

Just like the studs in the walls will rot under the same conditions, right?

Most of the trailers I have had to crawl under in my lifetime were underpinned with 8-10 mil poly, sealed at the seams. Then skirting installed without any vents.

Condensation is going to depend on the dew point on the interior side of the plastic.

The vapor barrier in the walls SHOULD be set to the inside or warm side to prevent moisture from getting into the wall in the first place. The plastic on the underside of trailers which is the only place you will probably ever see it is done to protect the insulation on the underside during transport in the rain. By rights the plastic should be removed and plywood or tyvek installed in it's place.